G'day
I have been invited over here by one of the boys who saw my post on the redline forum.
I am an old van man from the 70's with a long history of van ownership.
Some of the box vans I have owned include:
Mazda Bongo, Hiace, Urvan, Commer, Thames, Transit, Bedford, Kombi.
I currently drive a 1999 Carry van and my wife drives a 1996 Swift.
My Carry van goes well when it is empty, but when I put my tools in it things slow down. I not after a higher top speed, just more torque.
I have been researching the possibility of fitting a turbo to my van to get it going a bit better, when I found the Redline forum with Kruizin's article on putting a G16 motor in a 1999 Carry van.
It looks very do-able. I like the quote on page 5:
"the dealers mechanics reckon it's the quickest bloody Carry Van they've ever driven!!"
The questions I have are:
Has anybody else done it?
What G16 motor should I be looking for?
i.e. what is it normally in?
A dented 1.6efi Vitara just sold at the local auctions for $600. Is that what I should be looking for?
There is a dented low mileage Balena on an online auction at the moment with bidding still under $100. Will it do?
Any guidance appreciated.
Regards
Chris
G16 motor in a 1999 Carry van.
Welcome oldmanvan. They must be making Carry's too heavy these days. My 1985 with an F10A 1000cc engine with 264000 km's goes just as well with one adult as it does with four adults on board. I am not an expert on the G16, actually I haven't even heard of one - mainly because it wouldn't fit the 85 Carry - but I reckon just make sure it's twin cam, EFI and low kilometres. Good luck.
Anything will fit with the right combination of time and money. 
You'll likely run into similar issues with a G16B engine though, because the block/head is taller than the G13BB.
You'll likely run into similar issues with a G16B engine though, because the block/head is taller than the G13BB.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Hi,
Firstly nice to see another carry van owner looking to do some engine work!
Now, I assume you’re talking about Kruizin’s project: http://redlinegti.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... g16B+carry
I think between him and me were the only people to put bigger G series motors into our vans and I'm still going! ha.
Heres some highlights from his thread:
“The engine is about 25mm taller from bottom of the block to the top of the head, so this will make things tight when I get to stuffing it back in”
The engine height, the sump (mains and girdle (?)) clearance and physically attaching the motor to the G13BB box will be your biggest dilemmas.
I’ve encountered the sump issue as well, this was my solution:
After that some of the smaller details are:
“I also bought some 6x50mm flat steel bar this week, and used it to make a plate which picks up 3 of the holes in the RHS of the block under the engine mount, and together with a washer, this packs out the top of the engine mount by the required 7mm. It also provided me (with the aid of three 2mm washers) with a mount for the inlet manifold support bracket. I've welded a nut onto the back of my plate to make installation of the manifold easier.
The mains protrude 16mm further from the block on the 1600, so I've cut 16mm out of the support leg for the 1300's oil pick up. I also did some panel beating on the windage tray (?) to allow clearance around the girdle.
I also modified the water pipe which comes out the back of the water pump. In the carry, this winds out and down past the engine mount and then forward again. It has a 10mm mounting bolt into the side of the block, but the mounting post was in a different position. I solved this with some creative bends in the mounting tab. There is another 6mm mounting bolt into the engine mount which didn't quite line up - I elongated the hole by about 3mm and it fits perfectly.”
Mounting the motor (brackets), modified oil pickup and water pump outlet are the little things that you’ll have to take care off.
Other than that should be less involved then the swap I’m doing. Oh, word of warning… Unless you feel like cutting up your van, stick to the G13BB SOHC head. It also means you can retain the exhaust and intake manifolds… If you need to modify the head the SOHC’s flow better than the DOHC’s anyway (with bigger valves).
In regards to what motor; he states a “G16 SOHC 16V multipoint EFI motor” in the thread… I would imagine the block will be identical regardless of how it was mounted (FWD vs. RWD). Perhaps some one knows what the motor is from the pics in the thread.
Anyway, hope this helps.
Sam.
Firstly nice to see another carry van owner looking to do some engine work!
Now, I assume you’re talking about Kruizin’s project: http://redlinegti.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... g16B+carry
I think between him and me were the only people to put bigger G series motors into our vans and I'm still going! ha.
Heres some highlights from his thread:
“The engine is about 25mm taller from bottom of the block to the top of the head, so this will make things tight when I get to stuffing it back in”
The engine height, the sump (mains and girdle (?)) clearance and physically attaching the motor to the G13BB box will be your biggest dilemmas.
I’ve encountered the sump issue as well, this was my solution:
After that some of the smaller details are:
“I also bought some 6x50mm flat steel bar this week, and used it to make a plate which picks up 3 of the holes in the RHS of the block under the engine mount, and together with a washer, this packs out the top of the engine mount by the required 7mm. It also provided me (with the aid of three 2mm washers) with a mount for the inlet manifold support bracket. I've welded a nut onto the back of my plate to make installation of the manifold easier.
The mains protrude 16mm further from the block on the 1600, so I've cut 16mm out of the support leg for the 1300's oil pick up. I also did some panel beating on the windage tray (?) to allow clearance around the girdle.
I also modified the water pipe which comes out the back of the water pump. In the carry, this winds out and down past the engine mount and then forward again. It has a 10mm mounting bolt into the side of the block, but the mounting post was in a different position. I solved this with some creative bends in the mounting tab. There is another 6mm mounting bolt into the engine mount which didn't quite line up - I elongated the hole by about 3mm and it fits perfectly.”
Mounting the motor (brackets), modified oil pickup and water pump outlet are the little things that you’ll have to take care off.
Other than that should be less involved then the swap I’m doing. Oh, word of warning… Unless you feel like cutting up your van, stick to the G13BB SOHC head. It also means you can retain the exhaust and intake manifolds… If you need to modify the head the SOHC’s flow better than the DOHC’s anyway (with bigger valves).
In regards to what motor; he states a “G16 SOHC 16V multipoint EFI motor” in the thread… I would imagine the block will be identical regardless of how it was mounted (FWD vs. RWD). Perhaps some one knows what the motor is from the pics in the thread.
Anyway, hope this helps.
Sam.
[url=http://www.tamon.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2744]Can a G15A DOHC engine fit into a Carry Van? Short answer...Yes. Click for the long answer...[/url]
That particular motor is a G16B from a late model Vitara.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
G'day
Reading Kruizin's thread carefully I note that he had issues with trying to fit the G13BB cam position sensor.
He ended up buying a G16 cam with one fitted.
I surmise that I need to buy a G16 motor with a cam position sensor. I read that the "late" model Baleno motors have them but what exactly is a late model motor? I know a 2000 year model has them, but how far back can I go when trying to get one from a wrecker?
Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
Regards
Chris
Reading Kruizin's thread carefully I note that he had issues with trying to fit the G13BB cam position sensor.
He ended up buying a G16 cam with one fitted.
I surmise that I need to buy a G16 motor with a cam position sensor. I read that the "late" model Baleno motors have them but what exactly is a late model motor? I know a 2000 year model has them, but how far back can I go when trying to get one from a wrecker?
Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
Regards
Chris
Once a 2%er, always a 2%er. (old vanners know what I mean)
Baleno models had three series. 95-96 97-98 and 99+
First and second series had distributors, third series had distributorless wasted spark ignition.
First and second series had distributors, third series had distributorless wasted spark ignition.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
G'day
Thanks, that will save me heaps. A '99 or later is what I am after.
I live a long way from anything and have a back yard full of bits that should fit but don't.
That also explains the price difference at auction.
Pre-'99 bidding up to $125.
post '99 starting at 4350.
Check out:
http://www.manheimfowles.com.au/
Regards
Chris
Thanks, that will save me heaps. A '99 or later is what I am after.
I live a long way from anything and have a back yard full of bits that should fit but don't.
That also explains the price difference at auction.
Pre-'99 bidding up to $125.
post '99 starting at 4350.
Check out:
http://www.manheimfowles.com.au/
Regards
Chris
Once a 2%er, always a 2%er. (old vanners know what I mean)
Brayden, is there a difference between G series engines mounted North - South versus East West? If so, that will determine whether source should be Swift/Baleno or Vitara. Also I have heard that later Carry had a 1600 motor.
(Been wrong before)
(Been wrong before)
So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
The current series of APV has a G16AID engine, but before that the Carry was G13BB.
Yes there will be differences between north/south and east/west G16B motors, but they mostly relate to orientation of parts that would need to be removed and replaced to install the motor in a Carry anyway.
Yes there will be differences between north/south and east/west G16B motors, but they mostly relate to orientation of parts that would need to be removed and replaced to install the motor in a Carry anyway.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
G'day guys, just found this forum on my hunt for bits for my current project. Just wondering where oldvanman got up to with his project as the thread petered out quite a while ago...
Ps. The motor I used was originally East-West mounted in a Baleno.
Ps. The motor I used was originally East-West mounted in a Baleno.
What a beast 
Love it!
Love it!So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
I am going to attempt this conversion soon however...
Ive already inquired for the sump, oil pickup and
oil indicator stick from an APV to avoid running
into clearance issues with the sump.
Ive got a late 01 baleno g16b with 77.5 mm sleeved
bores for 1698cc that should go well but too strong
for the stock carry 99 box made originally for a kei
from what I understand and already crunches in 2nd.
Im thinking of using the apv gearbox or use one of
my spare gemini trimatic auto already modified
with g16b input shaft and no rear transfer case
to have the bellhousing cut and shut to suit
the angle required.
Need to find someone who can slice, rotate and
tig weld the bellhousing to suit. Anyone out there?
Ive already inquired for the sump, oil pickup and
oil indicator stick from an APV to avoid running
into clearance issues with the sump.
Ive got a late 01 baleno g16b with 77.5 mm sleeved
bores for 1698cc that should go well but too strong
for the stock carry 99 box made originally for a kei
from what I understand and already crunches in 2nd.
Im thinking of using the apv gearbox or use one of
my spare gemini trimatic auto already modified
with g16b input shaft and no rear transfer case
to have the bellhousing cut and shut to suit
the angle required.
Need to find someone who can slice, rotate and
tig weld the bellhousing to suit. Anyone out there?
I haven't come across the 2nd gear issue before, but the synchros of third have flogged out in both of my Carrys, (but I do give them an absolute caning!) The box in the van was repaired by the local mechanic in Warragul (some years ago, can't remember the company) for under $500 and I just haven't got around to it with the ute, but I don't consider the gearboxes to be weak. I don't personally think that 1698cc is THAT much bigger than stock that you should need a beefier gearbox unless you're doing tractor-pulls. Replacing or repairing the stock box occasionally might still be cheaper than installing a non-stock box. There are a lot of factors, but I'd try it with a stock box first... 