Pimp Wagon - UPDATE: Restore back in action

Suzuki van tech question and answers.
HEMI426
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:49 pm
Location: Sydney

Hi
Great to see the dream back and kicking

Nice work  :thumbup1:
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Tay
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Thanks HEMI426,

It's been a long time coming, there was a few occasions where I just given up altogether in getting this thing up and running again.
Long story short, now got my own place after living at my parents with my family, next to no bills so saved up a deposit for a house.

Been here 2 years now, now have my own double garage, got a rear roller door installed when the house of built, after a year, got a veranda built just behind the garage to accommodate the already cemented area. So good to be able to work under the shade and if I want to do an all nighter, I'll just roll the Van back into the garage :) Also great area for the kids to play.

Just some minor updates, while still waiting for my parts to arrive so I can put the dash back and move onto other tasks, I ended getting rid of the rust that was in the upper lip of the Van:

Top lip on both sides, grinded inside the lip back to bare metal, rust converter, then fiberglass filler on the inside of the lip on the outer edge as this is where from factory is spot welded the roof section of the van. So needed to fill up the small gap where the two pieces mate, wasn't fun doing these two lips, as after fiberglass, took ages to sand back the filler, but got there at the end, then etch primed.
toplip01.jpg
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Decided I wanted the clean look up at front and blocked off the factory antenna holes, I'll sort out later how to get an internal antenna of some sort that has good reception.
[attachment=0]antenna01.jpg[/attachment]

Next on my to do list is to get all those areas nice and flat and smooth, need to rub back the etch primed areas that needs to be filled with body filler, sand and more sanding, then etch primed again, then move onto getting some primer filler, sand, primer filler and sand again until ready for paint. I could have done this differently at the beginning with the filler once all rust removed, since I didn't know how long it was going to be until I was at this stage and didn't want the bare metal exposed for too long, I decided to etch prime it to protect it and get to that stage later as I was OK with sanding it back down for filler.

I'm no expert in panel beating or a mechanic, it's a hobby which I enjoy learning as I go, really enjoying it at the moment so hopefully it turns out good as per my skills, it may not look as good as the pros but hey, at least I can say, I did that and I saved a bucket loads of $ doing so.
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Jeo
Posts: 115
Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:42 pm
Location: Canberra

Tay wrote:I'm no expert in panel beating or a mechanic, it's a hobby which I enjoy learning as I go, really enjoying it at the moment so hopefully it turns out good as per my skills, it may not look as good as the pros but hey, at least I can say, I did that and I saved a bucket loads of $ doing so.
It's the way to be man. Love your work.
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Tay
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Back with a minor update, since my last update, I have been on and off working on the front of the Van. Since I have repaired most of the rust and since I don't know when I am going to paint, with advise from a panel beater through a friend. Advise was to etch prime the bare metal asap to seal it and can leave it as long as I want before more work is needed.
Since I'm new to all of this I wanted to start of in sections instead of doing it all in one go, just to get a hang of things and hopefully improve on the other panels as I go along.

The front of the van needed filler to fill in some dents and imperfections, filler on top of etch is a no no, so I have sanded the etch primer back to bare metal again on areas that needed filler, filled it up, block sand and then etch primer over the filler and bare metal again to seal it.
Roughly sanding back all the clear to make it dull on the front of the van and then sprayed a few coats of primer. Primer has been on for a few days now so pretty much ready to block sand smoother and then another few more coats of primer, then fine sand to finish it off ready for main. The first few coats of primer I put on, I can still see still see the rough sanding grit marks, this is ok as I didn't use a finer grit before primer as this will be done after the final priming.
primer01.jpg
Factory radio antenna location on the pillar has been filled and blocked, going for the clean/flush look.
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Tay
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Finally received all my genuine suzuki goodies from https://www.megazip.net.
Shipping too a longer than expected as I ordered during xmas time and this delayed it a bit, since they had 10% off all parts, little savings was worth it:

Factory Suzuki rubber floor mat:
Part #: 99000-99004-23T = $34.28 USD
parts-mat.jpg
Front headlight clear lense:
Part #: $8.02 USD each
36112-85010 (R)
36132-85010 (L)
[attachment=9]parts-frontlightlens.jpg[/attachment]

Heater/Vent box padding:
Part #: $4.09 USD each
74214-85000 (vent)
74213-85000 (heater)
[attachment=8]parts-heaterventpads.jpg[/attachment]

Rear tail light foam padding:
Part #: $12.67 USD each
35653-85500 x 2
[attachment=6]parts-rearlightpads.jpg[/attachment]

Rear compartment pockets:
Part #: $11.34 USD each
76272-65C70-5RT
I'm missing the drivers side pocket, since these were cheap and available I got the pair, only grey colour is available, and my original ones are black, no biggie as these will probably be wrapped in fabric when the interior is down later down the track.
[attachment=5]parts-rearpockets01.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=4]parts-rearpockets02.jpg[/attachment]

Driver/passenger side mirrors:
Part #:
84702-85011-5PK (L) = $28.05 USD
84701-85010-5PK (R) = $34.01 USD
The original side mirrors are those long ones where there is also a top bracket, these ones more cleaner look.
[attachment=3]parts-sidemirrors.jpg[/attachment]

Rear side windows:
Part #:
Metal window frame for the sliding windows:
$34.88 USD Each
81320-85500-000 (L)
81310-85500-000 (R)

Rubber runners that goes inside the metal window frame:
$25.73 USD Each
81372-85502-000 (L)
81371-85502-000 (R)

Didn't really need the metal frame but needed the rubber runners as mine has shrinked and hardened.
[attachment=2]parts-sidewindow01.jpg[/attachment]

Part #:
Plastic window stopper for the slide window.
81374-85500-000 (L/R) x 2 = $1.68 USD Each

Not sure what this is, in the diagram it should be like above but the original part # was discontinued and this part has superseded it.
81373-74300-000 (L/R) x 2 = $5.15 USD Each
[attachment=1]parts-sidewindow02.jpg[/attachment]

Various mounting bits for my cross member frame, it's been 6 years and don't know where some of the rubbers and washers are gone so got the set to make sure:
Part #:
11686-85501-000 x 4 = $2.32 USD Each
11687-84000-000 x 4 = $2.36 USD Each
11684-85501-000 x 4 = $2.32 USD Each
11685-79J00-000 x 8 = $1.28 USD Each
[attachment=0]parts-xmember.jpg[/attachment]
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Tay
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Just another minor update:

Removed the rear spoiler and re did the bottom of the tailgate, sanded back the etch primer, added filler and sanded to make it nice and flat.
The edges where the spoiler is attached to the tailgate, over time and vibration and rubbing, it has rubbed back to bare metal and started to surface rust so had to fix those.

[attachment=7]filler-reartg01.jpg[/attachment]
[attachment=6]filler-reartg02.jpg[/attachment]

After that was done, I etch primed the bare metal parts and then primer filler all over the tailgate, I masked around the rear window and wasn't happy that I was unable to prime just under the rubber window mold. After having a look under the window mold I can see some surface rust and I think what the heck, the window needs to come out. The local window guy charged me $80 to come out to my place the remove the front window and take it away with him, I didn't want it since there was scratch marks so will get a new one later.

I saw how he removed the front window and he cracked the window around the edges, I want to keep my rear window and re use it, so wasn't confident in him getting it out in one piece. I bit the bullet and removed it myself, taking my time with a small stanley knife, I carefully removed the front and rear rubber mold, with all the urethane glue, I managed to get my knife through it and slow carved/pulled my way around, since the small knife was flexible, I was able to pull all away around the window to make a clean cut, the corners gave me some trouble but slow she goes around and all was good.
primer-reartg01.jpg
Couldn't see any rust but a bit of surface rust so I was happy about that, next on the to do list is to get all that urethane off, rust converter and then etch prime.
primer-reartg02.jpg
As I can see in the previous pics of my Van from past owners, it did have both the driver and passenger plastic window visor, but the last few owners, the drivers side has gone missing. After searching through Yahoo Auctions, Import Monster came to the rescue, I have a new set of window visors.

Cost of Item: Around $12 AUD
Total Cost including shipping to my door: $107 AUD!
Big price to pay for rare items.

Brand new, drivers and passengers side.
[attachment=3]windowvisor01.jpg[/attachment]

Top is original one, bottom is new one, only problem, the new ones are LONGER. Similar shape but longer, I test fitted it, and it fits fine, just the bottom part is longer, so will dremal it out to make is shorter.
windowvisor02.jpg
windowvisor03.jpg
I knew these would be a bit longer as the visors are for the Every DB51 and similar models where the bottom window frame slopes down, I figured I take a punt and just cut off the bottom to make it, now that I have it, this can be done with no problems, so happy about that. Below is a pic of what I'm taking about.
windowvisor04.jpg
Attachments
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Brayden
Posts: 9101
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 3:09 am
Location: Canberra ACT
Contact:

Keep chipping away mate.  8) I'm surprised the screens were glued in, they should have reusable rubber press-in seals.
Makes it really easy to replace glass, all you need is a plastic spatula and a length of thin rope.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
User avatar
Tay
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Yep, front and rear windscreen where glued in, and each window have an outer and inner rubber mold. Just the whole process of replacing the glass is a pain and guaranteed to scratch the paint underneath and rust.

When the van was in its good days the passenger top corner rubber mold was lifting so I was in the process of getting a new rubber mold to replaced it. Contacted a Suzuki mob in Perth, and the one the sent me looked a bit different as its one of those pop out ones where you use a string to install, like the one you mentioned. I didn't know if this was correct or not and after some googling, these were the ones used for the Aussie Carries and other models, kinda like the idea of popping the windows out when I need to replace, inspect :)

As for the rear, I have just ordered a new rubber seal, same pop out one like the front from megazip.net, they didn't list this for the VIN # but instead has the two seals but they are discontinued and out of stock, so I just did a search for Super Carry SK410 and got one for the high roof which was the pop out one.
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Tay
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

Minor Update:

For the past 7 years, been searching on Yahoo Auctions on and off for the stock intercooler, a few slipped my fingers. They pop up every now and then but the description they put on it, most of the time, doesn't even relate to what car it's from, so your searching blinded. The ones that did slip through, I didn't put myself reminders, and they don't seem to re advertise.

About 2 months ago, I stuck gold and found myself one :), it was listed under DA51V, bid through Import Monster, choose the wrong shipping option and it took like 7 weeks to get here, didn't worry me as I wasn't going to install it anytime soon.

Since my last update, not much has happened, didn't work on the van, just received the stock intercooler :) As my original plan was to put the original front bar back on that I got from Yahoo Auctions ages ago,  and use the stock intercooler, if I didn't find one, I was going to get a small one and retro fit, now I don't have to.
Still deciding if I should keep the big eff off look or go for the stock look.
intercooler01.jpg
intercooler02.jpg
intercooler03.jpg
intercooler04.jpg
Pic is not mine, found these ages ago on Yahoo Auctions, just to keep reference what a stock every looks like.
Stock intercooler goes here, in red.
intercooler05.jpg
Closer look.
intercooler06.jpg
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Tay
Posts: 107
Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:03 pm
Location: Melbourne

UPDATE: (Cut and Paste from my post over at Suzuki Carry Owners Club Australia facebook page)

It's been a while since my last update, the body work on the Van has stopped since all the major stuff is done, now it's just minor stuff which I will leave until later.

Getting closer, 8+ years and counting getting this F5A Turbo engine rebuilt for my '88 Every. Why so long? various reasons, lazy, parts, lost motivation, $$$, etc... Anyhow, just received my rebuilt turbo this morning, it took over 3 months! don't ask, it's a long story.
So far, over the years, all this has costed me $3.5k+ in parts and labour alone, there's a few more bits I need to get so the amount will increase. Every internal part is either new or reconditioned/re grounded, the cylinders has been re sleeved, one of the bores was pretty bad so they honed it as much as they can without making the walls thin. Since I already purchased new stock turbo pistons ages ago, I couldn't use them, oversized was recommended/needed, you can't get these without going custom, which I didn't want to go down this route, also these Turbo block are non existent so finding one is impossible. So instead I have re sleeved them and back to stock specs so the original turbo pistons can be used.
Decided to ditch the stock belt driven fan and go electric.
Next on my agenda is to make sure everything is bolted correctly and tight, all the vac hoses is where they meant to go, this is going to be the hardest as there is about 4 areas where I have no idea??? I'm kicking myself for not taking photos when the engine was removed 8+ years ago.
Progress is super slow but getting there. Added some photos for your enjoyment.
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