Bike engined MB in QLD

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Jeo
Posts: 115
Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:42 pm
Location: Canberra

Grabbed this from the OzClubbies forum (as in Lotus 7 style clubmans) as I feel some here would be interested.

Jeff at OzClubbies wrote: Have been reading OzClubbies for a few months now and have learnt a lot, so I thought its about time we share our (Dad - 85mightyboy and myself) BEC build.

I think we picked the mightyboy up maybe 2 years ago after I bought a built RF900 (RF1050) from a mate having a fire sale. Just imagine a red mightyboy with the motor in the boot and standard wheel barrow tyres.

Originally it was going to be a basic build keeping a lot of standard steel, since then its become a full spaceframe and silhouette body - mostly due to how basic mightyboys are and wanting to learn more about suspension design etc. The car will be for hillclimbs and sprints etc.

Current specs include NA MX5 f and r uprights, brakes, diff and drive shafts, double a-arm suspension all round, and lots of tube.

So this is its current state, currently building the front right corner which i can then jig for the left side, then we'll move on to the rear half of chassis.

Any questions/suggestions/criticisms fire away :)

Cheers,
Jeff

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arklan
Posts: 392
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:31 am

jesus

do u have a direct link?
Dave85MB
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue May 28, 2013 8:18 pm

That build was originally started by me in mid 2013.

Unfortunately health problems [2 heart attacks] delayed the build start & then the lathe tried the take my left hand off...tore the ligaments in 4 fingers [40 stitches] & 2 years on, full movement hasn't returned.

Son Jeff has taken over the build with input from me.

Anyone from the Gippsland area in Vic has probably seen Brett Hayward's MB creation...mine is/will be a copy[very roughly]of his.

Basically full NA MX5 running gear with motor offset to the right to keep the diff/sprocket central.
Drive shafts not cut & shut means the track is a "bit wider" than a standard MB so we intend adding approx 250/300mm to the original MB wheelbase & modding the body length accordingly to get a better track/wheelbase ratio.
Stretching the wheelbase gives us more/better chain length to minimize heat build up & wear on the chain
Reverse will be electric via BMW flex plate & BMW starter motor on the IRS rear end.
May have to source a slippery diff if we find it does too many single peggers.

Motor is a 1995 vintage Grey Import Suzuki RF900R with a Big Bore kit making it 1050 cc ,5 speed Sequential g/box.
Centre steering to a US sourced VW "Beach Buggy"Rack & Pinion.
[Actually still RH Drive because the steering shaft is 20mm to the right of the centre line.] :)

Reverse floor mount clutch/brake/throttle pedals,UK sourced, Probably a Kirkey seat.
Steering wheel is a 300 mm Chinese copy of a Sparco open top 4 button thing for future electric Sequential gear change.

11 litre fuel cell & 3 litre surge tank should be enough for Hillclimbs etc

ChroMoly rod ends all round [20 of them @ $20 each [UK].Threaded Inserts for the Rod ends I machined myself.

Flat Aluminium floor with 100 mm front & 130 mm rear chassis height.
+++++++Still lots to do.

Have a box full of receipts but not game enough to add them up
Last edited by Dave85MB on Fri Dec 25, 2015 3:58 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Brayden
Posts: 9101
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 3:09 am
Location: Canberra ACT
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Thanks for sharing so much info on what looks like an incredible build.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
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Jeo
Posts: 115
Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:42 pm
Location: Canberra

I thought there'd be good odds you'd be on here. Good to see!
playwme
Posts: 41
Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:53 pm

Nice find. Always like seeing bike engined car builds.

I've got a full K8 GSXR1000 engine sitting in the shed. I was thinking it would go good in one of my 3 Sherpa's.
Dave85MB
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue May 28, 2013 8:18 pm

If the Sherpa's were mine & rear wheel drive,I would put the bike motor north/south with a tail shaft.

Much easier than chain drive which entails sourcing a rear end either solid or IRS & cnverting the diff for chain drive
... Chain drive is North /south at the final drive sprocket... standard diff is "east/west' through the crown wheel/pinions.

Replace the primary sprocket with a splined tail shaft flange [or weld the existing sprocket to the tail shaft flange].

Motor will be offset to the left & keeping it RHD keeps it "more or less" in balance but unless you are ultra fat /skinny wouldn't really have much affect.

This is our fist bike engined build, so a big learning curve

Dave
playwme
Posts: 41
Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:53 pm

Yeah, that's pretty much what I was thinking. Would be good to keep the engine under the bonnet and retain all the stock cargo area. Sherpa's are front drive so maybe a rear subframe from a Cappucino or something like that. Maybe even an adapted front subframe set up with a diff carrier. I brought one of the Sherpas back from the farm last weekend to have a good look underneath and do some measurements.
g man
Posts: 60
Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2014 1:50 am
Location: perth metro

Dave85MB - a nice start to the project - sorry to hear about your health + fight with the lathe....
I hope you are on the mend mate - I am looking at a bike powered MB for 2 years now.
Car will be used for track/circuit events only.

Maybe yourself or forum members can add input to the following ideas:

Option 1 - MB 550cc + g/box out.
Remove MB rear end inc drum brakes.
GSXR Gixxer 1000cc rear mounted to rear axle + sprocket - go cart style drive (very simple + idiot proof!!!)
Braking by stock MB front discs only.

Option 2 - MB 550cc + g/box out.
GSXR Gixxer 1000cc solid mounted in MB engine bay.
Fab up tailshaft to rear diff - not sure what type?

I would like to talk with the Shepparton Vic guy at some stage or anyone on here that has
completed this type of build. Should come in under 300kg once you ditch the 550 + g/box,
tail gate, seats + any other non required parts.

All the best Dave.
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