More Boss kit questions & answers

[Sean]

Hey all... G'day Brayden - we met in Canberra a little over a year ago, and you dropped around to see my little red MB in Flynn.

Anyways, I bought an Autotecnica boss & wheel while I was in Melbourne, and it didn't fit, either. I went and saw the guys at Autotecnica, who could not make it fit no hard they tried. In the end, they researched it and sourced a HKB boss for me directly from Japan, which fits. Just. The box is marked "323 Early Mighty Boy". The splines match, but the shaft still won't slide on - will need machining very slightly.

So, on it goes anyway (probably not very smart), and promply ruined my switchgear. Another set of switchgear and some minor adjustments, and still things went clunk. It's still there, but my indicators don't self-cancel anymore.

Thing is, the pins are exactly the same offset and length now, just the boss doesn't sit as far down the spline as it should. I didn't think it would be such a big problem. I will get someone to machine the hole a bit, and hopefully that will help.

If anyone has any more useful input, that would be great - those switchgear sets are ruining me

Thanks,

Sean

[Brayden]

See if you can source a SAAS boss kit mate, mine has caused me no hassles in 5 years.

[Josh]

In theory they're the same damn thing.

After having handled and sold the things for 2 years, I dare say that the Autotechnica ones were always better presented and appared to be better machined than any of their SAAS equivalents.

Obviously this is one of those sad exceptions to the norm...

[fritz]

I just took another look at my autotechnica boss kit.
I figured out that to get it to cancel etc properly you need to cut the pins on the boss by 2 or so mm as they interfere with the back of the switchgear.
Now that I have done that it seems to behave as the origional wheel in terms of canceling etc.
The boss kit still doesn't slide onto the slines as I would like it to, but I'm reasonably happy with it now. I'll probably end up using some locktite to hold the nut on as it needs all the thread it can get...

Hope this might help you.

[Sean]

Thanks for all the info... all I have to do now is get ANOTHER switch set or something to fix this broken-ish one, and I'll have another go at it!

Sean

[under cons-truck-tion]

i had the same problem with the autotechnica boss...what i did was remove the cancelling pins, and cut the back of the boss down....i used a hack saw and made cuts across it all (lots of them from all angles)...all the same depth (about 5 mm's) then used an angle grinder to cut it off at the dept of the cuts. and then i sanded it down so it was smoothed off, i then got a drill (2.5 mm if i remember correctly) and drilled the holes in about 5 mms (so that the pins were still stuck out the original lenghth), this was a much cheaper and option then machining the hole out..and it didnt affect the boss at all. it just made it 5 mm shorter and now it actully fits on with enough length on the splines actully touching, and enough room to put the nut and washer back on with a safe amount of thread...oh and you can actully remove the black plastic from the boss, really makes it easyer to access the back of it...just make sure you dont cut the front (where the brass horn plate is....that is not a good idea hope this helps someone out there...