Well I have decided to buy the 87 or so Swift and drop the motor/box in the Mighty Boy.
What are the pitfalls? (And I did a search, no result) or is it not really possible without large expense?
993 conversion
The forum probably isn't old enough to have a previous discussion on the topic mate. 
As far as I can tell, the swap is a matter of fabricating your engine mounts and driveshafts, then just dropping the motor in.
Naturally you'll need things like a coil and such, and perhaps some custom piping for the radiator, but I don't think it would be a huge job.
Best bet would be to take a look at a Swift and compare yourself.
My main concern with the swap would be the increased weight over the front end, so I'd beef up the suspension and brakes. But thats just me.
FYI: The G10A engine is available in 86-93 Swifts, just in case you might want to find a newer model than 87.
As far as I can tell, the swap is a matter of fabricating your engine mounts and driveshafts, then just dropping the motor in.
Naturally you'll need things like a coil and such, and perhaps some custom piping for the radiator, but I don't think it would be a huge job.
Best bet would be to take a look at a Swift and compare yourself.
My main concern with the swap would be the increased weight over the front end, so I'd beef up the suspension and brakes. But thats just me.
FYI: The G10A engine is available in 86-93 Swifts, just in case you might want to find a newer model than 87.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Thanks Brayden I was worried the motor/gearbox would be too wide for the chassis.
As for models, I know the 993 is available in those models but I doubt I will get a later one in good running nick the whole car for $150.
The rest of the car will go to the scrappies I think, might keep a few bits like the headlights etc. I just don't have the space for whole cars to lay around while being parted off.
As for models, I know the 993 is available in those models but I doubt I will get a later one in good running nick the whole car for $150.
The rest of the car will go to the scrappies I think, might keep a few bits like the headlights etc. I just don't have the space for whole cars to lay around while being parted off.
Fair enough.
The 3cyl G10A engine/box does fit, there is an MB running around QLD with the conversion. I can't imagine there would be much room to work on the motor once it is in though.
Other point I forgot to mention is that the Swift has a half shaft in the driveline to even out the driveshaft lengths, although I'm sure you wouldn't need one with the shorter track of the MB.
Carry on.
The 3cyl G10A engine/box does fit, there is an MB running around QLD with the conversion. I can't imagine there would be much room to work on the motor once it is in though.
Other point I forgot to mention is that the Swift has a half shaft in the driveline to even out the driveshaft lengths, although I'm sure you wouldn't need one with the shorter track of the MB.
Carry on.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
The guy in QLD with the mod is username: Syten on the suzishop forums.
He didn't do any work himself so it's not much good asking questions, but he does want to sell the thing pretty badly. So go go, you should be able to get it for less than $3000 off him easy.
He didn't do any work himself so it's not much good asking questions, but he does want to sell the thing pretty badly. So go go, you should be able to get it for less than $3000 off him easy.
He He Kei Syten is in Brisbane I am in country WA any further away we'd need a passport to visit. Besides I can get the whole car for $150, should get change out of 3 grand (no insult meant to syten).
Brayden wouldn't the Swift 993 be Aluminium? That should more or less equalise any weight difference, besides even if cast iron should only be kilo or 2 difference.
Brayden wouldn't the Swift 993 be Aluminium? That should more or less equalise any weight difference, besides even if cast iron should only be kilo or 2 difference.
Cast iron block mate, and the gearbox is larger and heavier too. I'm just going on size comparisons though, I've never actually weighed either of the motor/box's, but I have seen the two side by side and the Swift combo looks bigger and heavier - for whatever thats worth.
The gearbox is definately heavier though, when I lifted one I noticed the difference.
The gearbox is definately heavier though, when I lifted one I noticed the difference.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Fair suck of the sav mate, only got it home sunday after attacking the unsuspecting donor with my trusty recipro saw (gotta love the recipro saw for carving up car bodies) now got half a Swift in the garage all the vitals stripped off, just leaving the motor/box in place to suss up the project, take a few measurements etc, like they say, measure twice cut once. I don't have the finances to fund stuffups so need to be right. Also am in the process of selling my Holden to finance the deal, although I don't really see it as that expensive (famous last words).
One of the major problems so far is the engine mounts, I asked the guy who bought Sytens car for pix of the mounts etc but guess he has not had time yet.
I am at the moment looking at taking the mounting off the shockie tower of the Swift and grafting on to the MB, and using the existing MB left side and centre mounts, I am pretty sure I can use the side (gearbox) mount but am not too sure about the centre. Just a question of time and other more pressing things to do first, priorities have to be set.
Once I get the mounts straight in my mind I will pull the motor and box out, strip the motor, do stuff like new bearings and oil seals, check the crank is ok, clutch and pressure plate, new timing belt (too hard to do once motor is fitted I fear) and then the box will have to be stripped as the guy i bought it off says it jumps out of first, could be just adjustment in-car, or something more drastic. In any case new bearings shouldn't be too expensive and can check out the other baulk rings or what ever they use, haven't been able to get a book for it so far so can't say what the construction is. It most likely won't be as difficult as doing the 5 speed box on my Nissan diesel 720! !
Any way I will take pix and keep a log and when done will put in the tech notes here if Brayden can handle it.
One of the major problems so far is the engine mounts, I asked the guy who bought Sytens car for pix of the mounts etc but guess he has not had time yet.
I am at the moment looking at taking the mounting off the shockie tower of the Swift and grafting on to the MB, and using the existing MB left side and centre mounts, I am pretty sure I can use the side (gearbox) mount but am not too sure about the centre. Just a question of time and other more pressing things to do first, priorities have to be set.
Once I get the mounts straight in my mind I will pull the motor and box out, strip the motor, do stuff like new bearings and oil seals, check the crank is ok, clutch and pressure plate, new timing belt (too hard to do once motor is fitted I fear) and then the box will have to be stripped as the guy i bought it off says it jumps out of first, could be just adjustment in-car, or something more drastic. In any case new bearings shouldn't be too expensive and can check out the other baulk rings or what ever they use, haven't been able to get a book for it so far so can't say what the construction is. It most likely won't be as difficult as doing the 5 speed box on my Nissan diesel 720! !
Any way I will take pix and keep a log and when done will put in the tech notes here if Brayden can handle it.
Of course I can handle it mate - I'm not the one DOING the conversion after all. Any info/pictures you end up with I would be very happy to compile into a guide for everyone else.
As for your engine mounts, apparently Syten's old ute used at least one from a Sierra, possibly more.
Any info/pictures you end up with I would be very happy to compile into a guide for everyone else.As for your engine mounts, apparently Syten's old ute used at least one from a Sierra, possibly more.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Well got the engine/box out, took photos from various angles of the mounts etc., they are quite a bit different to the MB. The main ones I think I can transplant the front radiator support lower bar from the swift shorten it a bit and weld it in, that will give me the mounting points for the right front mount and the left front bar thing that goes back under the motor to the body that has the left engine mount has to be bolted to the floor just inside the cabin on the passenger (left) side, the centre rear one I haven't worked out yet, might be able to use the MB one, the right top mount looks like again a transplant from the Swift shocky tower to the MB, and there's another mount in underneath that I haven't looked at properly yet. check it out in daylight. No great rush the MB is going fine, will getta round tuit.
Incidentally the engine block is aluminium so the weight we were discussing earlier won't be an issue I reckon, and the dissy is electronic so that's superior to the points one too. The exhaust bolts are rusted welded in to the manifold had to lift the engine out with 3 foot of exhaust pipe hanging down so will be getting the angle grinder and drill and taps out tomorrow, and will substitute studs and brass nuts for the replacement, always a good move with these. Brass nuts don't rust on and are easy to take off. All the old cars had them until the bean counters discovered they could save .0001 of a cent each by using steel, even if it did make it a pain for the customer later. Also it has a cat as well as a carbon can, so may be a later motor in the old (83 compliance plates) body. The block is threaded on the front for another mount, presumably the air con, so that's good too, when I source one.
TIP: drain all the oil out of the gearbox and engine before removing and getting oil all over the garage floor.... especially the gearbox when you pull the driveshafts.. glad I got the front cut so I could source all this stuff...broke my Stanley 3/8 drive ratchet, do they give a lifetime warranty like Sidchrome did? It's only 3 or 4 years old too. Wish my Proto hadn't been heisted..bloody thieves.. wish I knew what Syten's car had done to it.. nuff for now..
Incidentally the engine block is aluminium so the weight we were discussing earlier won't be an issue I reckon, and the dissy is electronic so that's superior to the points one too. The exhaust bolts are rusted welded in to the manifold had to lift the engine out with 3 foot of exhaust pipe hanging down so will be getting the angle grinder and drill and taps out tomorrow, and will substitute studs and brass nuts for the replacement, always a good move with these. Brass nuts don't rust on and are easy to take off. All the old cars had them until the bean counters discovered they could save .0001 of a cent each by using steel, even if it did make it a pain for the customer later. Also it has a cat as well as a carbon can, so may be a later motor in the old (83 compliance plates) body. The block is threaded on the front for another mount, presumably the air con, so that's good too, when I source one.
TIP: drain all the oil out of the gearbox and engine before removing and getting oil all over the garage floor.... especially the gearbox when you pull the driveshafts.. glad I got the front cut so I could source all this stuff...broke my Stanley 3/8 drive ratchet, do they give a lifetime warranty like Sidchrome did? It's only 3 or 4 years old too. Wish my Proto hadn't been heisted..bloody thieves.. wish I knew what Syten's car had done to it.. nuff for now..
Well finally got the body all hacked off. Chopped the various mounts etc that might be needed, left a bit of body around them to help in lining up. will try engine first in standard engine bay, no point doing unnecessary alterations. But in view of sytens car having trouble ripping out mounts might be best to do the whole conversion. Will see. The left (I think) driveshaft is about 3 inches longer than the Mighty Boy one, so this indicates the engine will fit pretty good at least on the gearbox mount as it appears the stretching was done to the other side. Will soon find out.
Also it must have been in a prang or something as the left wheel has the larger studs, while the right wheel has the Mighty Boy size studs, so a bit of jerry building in there!
The gearbox chassis strut that goes from front to the rear and bolts to the floor is different, quite a bit more sturdy, and has 2 mounting bolts front and rear. Maybe this is why the mounts on syten's car cracked, if it had the original mounting strut it only had one bolt and was a lot less sturdy.
By the way the car was a GA Swift. Anyone want any bits?
Also it must have been in a prang or something as the left wheel has the larger studs, while the right wheel has the Mighty Boy size studs, so a bit of jerry building in there!
The gearbox chassis strut that goes from front to the rear and bolts to the floor is different, quite a bit more sturdy, and has 2 mounting bolts front and rear. Maybe this is why the mounts on syten's car cracked, if it had the original mounting strut it only had one bolt and was a lot less sturdy.
By the way the car was a GA Swift. Anyone want any bits?
Thats interesting It looks like the engine will go in with MB mounts, the Swift mounts are quite different. But the guy with the G10 motor reports the engine mounts don't last and the chassis section cracks where the mounts are, so maybe that is why the mounts were changed. Did you have the 5 speed box?