Hello everyone this is my first post.
I have acquired a suzuki hatch with 74,000klms with the 2 speed auto.
Its a beauty in me,metallic blue and well looked after.
Before that I had a silver 543cc manual one with 36,000klms.
I know its not a favored combo but I just love semi autos for cruising around and even putting in a stall when the engine is worked (dont know if possible on a hatch .
Im interested to find out if there is a twin cam head that will fit from the later F series engines? if so I would like to build one with a 1mm overbore f8b bottom end and 1 inch offset ground stroke. I have read many posts but cannot find the information to clarify if the twin cam ¨big block¨ is possible. Tried search many times. I know pistons would have to change unless I kept it low comp.
Also ¨colin¨ I would like to know how you offset ground the journals without adding material to it? Do you have other rods that can be used instead (bike rods?) Personally Id like to go higher comp with a single SU setup.
Also has anybody run the carry 4 cylinder version of the F series? it is a much smoother engine but I know it would be a tad longer but nice with quad carbs and 1 litre.
NEW 1st post ¨F8B with twin cam head¨
- stevan_istheman
- Posts: 851
- Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 10:13 am
- Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland
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I've been told that the F6A head fits the F8B block...
i dunno, so i think i'll have to test it
i dunno, so i think i'll have to test it
BAL4 Designs
For all your mechanical design and drafting requirements.
For all your mechanical design and drafting requirements.
This I 'gotta' see - sounds interesting.
So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
F6A twin cam head fits the F8B block. All you need is a longer timing belt, and an aftermarket ECU.
Also make sure you have the F6A manifolds too.
Also make sure you have the F6A manifolds too.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
not for the g10 3 cyl but yes for the g10 4 cyl
Thank you guys, I will search for a twin cam head from a f6a.
There is also a sohc 12?? if so Id probably go for one instead as they would be perhaps same belt.
Heres another 12v sohc?? apart can anyone say the oil and water galleries are exactly like the f8b??
Also can anyone see if I would need anything from the twin cam block? any timing pulleys on the block or other?
Thank you guys, I will search for a twin cam head from a f6a.
There is also a sohc 12?? if so Id probably go for one instead as they would be perhaps same belt.
Heres another 12v sohc?? apart can anyone say the oil and water galleries are exactly like the f8b??
Also can anyone see if I would need anything from the twin cam block? any timing pulleys on the block or other?
to ofset the crank you machine it off centre i did a 1 mm offset to increase the stroke you end up machining 1mm off the "inside" and nothing off the "outside" fit 1mm undersize bearings machine the tops off the pistons and presto a big block mighty boy
MORE BEER!
Thanks colin I never thought of the bearing idea, great call. I was thinking of worsening the rod stroke ratio by using different same length rods and modding the crankpins.Colin wrote:to ofset the crank you machine it off centre i did a 1 mm offset to increase the stroke you end up machining 1mm off the "inside" and nothing off the "outside" fit 1mm undersize bearings machine the tops off the pistons and presto a big block mighty boy
Colin would you know if I could use the F6A 12 valve head instead of the twin cam 12 valve? I prefer the simplicity and compact size. Also is it possible to get some prices via PM on setting up a block with the 1mm stroke and 1.5mm overbore with the right pistons mods?
Considering that the F6A DOHC 12 valve and SOHC 8 valve heads both fit on the F8B block, I can't see any reason the SOHC 12 valve would be any different.
The real issue would be getting 4-valve fly-cut pistons - especially important since you are stroking the motor.
Colin hasn't run into this problem with his motor because he uses a thicker head gasket to bring the C/R down, which has the benefit of moving the valves further away from the pistons. Of course this is only useful if you have a turbo.
If you do go down this path I would order in at least two complete heads. Because your chances of finding valvetrain parts locally would be zero.
The real issue would be getting 4-valve fly-cut pistons - especially important since you are stroking the motor.
Colin hasn't run into this problem with his motor because he uses a thicker head gasket to bring the C/R down, which has the benefit of moving the valves further away from the pistons. Of course this is only useful if you have a turbo.
If you do go down this path I would order in at least two complete heads. Because your chances of finding valvetrain parts locally would be zero.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.