hi, i've come across some wiring issues in my little suzuki van. the car has been running fine until last night i was driving home in the wet/rain and about 500m from home my head lights blow, so i pull over look down at the fuse and its gone so i replaced the fuse everything worked again. drove a bit more and they blew again. so i just drove the rest of the journey with the indicator on (quite back streets no one about)
so i've gone under the dash this arvo to see what the problem is, upon replacing the fuse i can feel the wiring going to the dash (lights up the charge warning and oil pressure etc lights) is getting warm and so is the wiring going to headlights. the headlights fuse is also getting burningly hot but only on one side of the fuse... these are the old round cylindrical glass fuses.
the fuse panel in the van only has 4 slots and i have them going
constant 12v --- headlights/brake/interior lights
12v acc --- indicators/wipers
12v acc --- fuel pump
12v acc --- radio and dash
the car wasnt running when i bought it and so i just grabbed the wiring hanging out and tested which one came on with acc and which was 12v constant. the car has run fine for a while with no problems.
the fuel pump and indicators wiring isn't getting hot. but the wiring going to the dash is (not radio) the fuse for the radio is fine though. but the fuse on the headlights gets extremely hot.
where should i start looking fo the problem?? the car is an older....simpler car. but what could be causing the fuse's to get extremely hot, but not blow?? i clean all the contacts and that didnt help. and the other two things i havent checked is the alternator + wiring and i haven't looked at anything with multimeter as i'm having trouble locating mine.
any help or advice would be appreciated before i burn this van to the ground for all the head aches its caused me.
wiring and fuses getting hot.. electrical help
I had a hot wiring issue on my old Every van which turned out to be that the connectors on the main harness had corroded. Bypassed the connectors with new wire and it was sweet.
But as Billie says, check voltages across all suspect wires with a multimeter first. That will give you a solid indication of where the problem is coming from. If you see higher than 14v with the engine running there is a problem with the alternator.
But as Billie says, check voltages across all suspect wires with a multimeter first. That will give you a solid indication of where the problem is coming from. If you see higher than 14v with the engine running there is a problem with the alternator.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
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stevan_istheman
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Check headlight globe wattage... if its too high it may be causing a problem.
60/55's should be whats in there.
Hope this helps and i'm not rambling for no reason.
60/55's should be whats in there.
Hope this helps and i'm not rambling for no reason.
BAL4 Designs
For all your mechanical design and drafting requirements.
For all your mechanical design and drafting requirements.
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NozMonkeys
- Posts: 152
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poor earth, bad connection or short.
Big resistance in wires can also cause them to get hot.
Big resistance in wires can also cause them to get hot.
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Bill Lally
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- Location: Brisbane
Could it be that someone has by passed or eliminated the headlight relay?? 
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NozMonkeys
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 8:39 pm
I have searched my carry and have found NO relays. As stupid as it sounds, I don't think our van's have relays.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to install headlamp relays with direct battery feed. You'd have slightly better headlamps at night due to less resistance in the circuit.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to install headlamp relays with direct battery feed. You'd have slightly better headlamps at night due to less resistance in the circuit.