ok so i got this boy late last year from gumtree
my sister wanted to join the mboy scene so i thought would be a great one coz of how nicely it presents and had the f8b in too which had been rebuilt 30k km ago by suzuki shop.
paid 3500
on the way home it over heated, so pulled over for 20 minutes and drove the rest of the way home and it seemed fine. a few weeks later with it over heating all the time i booked it in to a radiator specialist and paid 275 to get the whole thing checked out inside and out. after checking it they found the wires to the fan had been put it the wrong way so they swapped those over and it never over heated again.
about a month later it started sounding louder but i couldnt figure it out, my dad said it was an exhaust leak and put his hand over the exhaust. the engine idled fine with his hand blocking the exhaust. found it was where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold had come lose and there was no gasket in there. so put a gasket in there with the proper glue stuff and done the nuts up tight. after a while it started getting louder again, the nuts had fallen off. so put new nuts on there with spring washers and they still came loose. the bolt that connects the pipe to the block at the bottom had fallen out by this stage too so dad put another one in there.
playing around with the pipe we noticed the engine was dripping a little oil, by this time the exhaust had began to stink a bit. dad suggested checking the bolts that hold the sump on so i went over them with a socket as best i could and they were just slightly tighter than finger tight. so did them up a bit firmer and that seemed to help but its begun to really burn oil now.
then yesterday i was checking the radiator fluid and noticed the air cleaner was a bit wobbly, the only thing holding the air cleaner on is that hose and the bolt that goes to the head cover. dad had a look and found that the bolt that goes thru the aircleaner in to the carby has snapped off.
we noticed that the engine revs pretty hard before it changes gears at 40km but we figured it revved hard like that coz its only a 2 speed but now we r pretty sure its because the guys at suzuki shop put the f8b with the original f5a gearbox.
the engine is falling apart and its really a great shame coz of how tidy this boy is.
i was just driving it to work and back for the last 6 months, which is only about 5km away.
do you guys reckon it could be like this because of the gearbox being too small?
a tale of woe, dont put a f5a gbox with a f8b
I drove an auto MB with an F8B motor and F5A box on the highway to and from work for 3 months and although it revved a bit high it didn't damage the motor. In the end I changed the box because I was sick of the noise.
If the box won't shift into 2nd below 40kph then there is a fault somewhere. At light throttle it should shift to 2nd at between 20-30kph.
If the box won't shift into 2nd below 40kph then there is a fault somewhere. At light throttle it should shift to 2nd at between 20-30kph.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
sure it was rebuilt motor? if it was reconditioned motor then all they have to do is clean it up. a rebuilt motor is rebuilt as was new , reconditioned it could be any old p.o.s.. my father used to work for a motor shop repairing the starters and alternators etc. all he did when a 'faulty' one came in was dismantle it, clean it up, if it needed anything obvious it was replaced, paint it and put it on the shelf to be sold. if it packed up in the 3 month warranty (some shops only have a 30 day warranty) they would just take it back and swap it .
the exhaust where it bolts to the manifold you don't use spring washers they are useless because the heat causes the spring to lose its spring.
use a couple of flat washers and do them up tight. to save problems in the future with them rusting use brass nuts, and some anti lock gunk.
as it has done some 30,000k since suzuki shop had it you don't know what sort of life the engine had in the meantime before you got it, maybe you should pull it and do a full gasket and oil seal replacement, and new big ends and mains, maybe rings. also it might be a good idea to do the timing belt, it should have been done when the engine was reconditioned but just to be sure, a broken belt can really ruin your day. most of the work even pulling the head can be done with engine in place, just remove the exhaust as it stops you dropping the sump, but it is easier to get at everything with the motor out but it's a nuisance getting it out.
the exhaust where it bolts to the manifold you don't use spring washers they are useless because the heat causes the spring to lose its spring.
use a couple of flat washers and do them up tight. to save problems in the future with them rusting use brass nuts, and some anti lock gunk.
as it has done some 30,000k since suzuki shop had it you don't know what sort of life the engine had in the meantime before you got it, maybe you should pull it and do a full gasket and oil seal replacement, and new big ends and mains, maybe rings. also it might be a good idea to do the timing belt, it should have been done when the engine was reconditioned but just to be sure, a broken belt can really ruin your day. most of the work even pulling the head can be done with engine in place, just remove the exhaust as it stops you dropping the sump, but it is easier to get at everything with the motor out but it's a nuisance getting it out.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/g ... 53843.html
ok so i was looking at putting this diesel engine in the boy connected to a CVT
according to the measurements this engine should fit if i take off the fan
it says 15.5kw at 3600rpm which i think will be quite good since the f5a has 19kw at 6000rpm
this engine also has 64nm of torque
ok so i was looking at putting this diesel engine in the boy connected to a CVT
according to the measurements this engine should fit if i take off the fan
it says 15.5kw at 3600rpm which i think will be quite good since the f5a has 19kw at 6000rpm
this engine also has 64nm of torque