Magnetic Island Mighty Boy

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Zuke-Ute
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun May 24, 2015 5:36 pm
Location: FNQ

G'day all,

Bought My Mighty Boy off a bloke on Magnetic Island a year ago now. Great car! Same old story though underpowered especially considering the hills on the island the f5a just hates life going over one of 14 degree pitch hill and slugs it up in second 35kph poor old thing. Since buying it I've fitted some aftermarket wheels and tyres to set the look of it off a bit, fitted some good condition seats and serviced everything on it, I have some big plans for it F8B Engine transplant, Respray, and suspension Upgrade. 

First and foremost the motor. I've managed to buy a completely rebuilt F8B with new head and VRS kit (for a steal) Needs to be assembled but no biggy. I've also bought and reconditioned a weber 30DIC. The F8B has no accessories but have learnt that most things are interchangeable. I'm planning on using the F5A box because it is in good condition and the clutch was replaced less than 12 months ago (will change clutch it if it looks worn) and theres only 15kms worth of roads here so won't be getting it up to 100kph anytime soon. 

I've been researching what can and can't be swapped but I'm still a little confused on a few things: 
Can i use the same alternator from F5A-F8B? Mine has just packed it in on the F5A and spending $200 on a new one that will only be used for a few months isn't really practical

Apart from that I'm chasing a F8B inlet manifold so that i can get the weber 30DIC carby fitted up after i get an adaptor plate made for it. I have a spare inlet manifold but unsure if it's an F8B one or not? How can you tell if it's the right one? Anyone got measurements or is there a casting mark on it? Haven't dug it out of the parts pile yet

Is there anything else I need to make this conversion happen apart from the obvious i.e new timing belt kit, water pump, coil etc?

I'd like to get some extractors for it as well and have found out a few ways of acquiring them but if anyone has some lying around please feel free to let me know.


I've done engine conversions before in several cars and it seems as though this is pretty straightforward but it pays to ask the pros rather than go off half cocked and not have any wheels for a while because of a minor oversight and particularly living on an island you can't just run down to Repco.

Thanks for all of your info and advice on this site. Real credit to the blokes at Team Mighty Boy  :thumbup2:

All the best
Dan
Zuke-Ute
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun May 24, 2015 5:36 pm
Location: FNQ

A few pics of the Ute at this stage 
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Crated engine in the back :thumbup2:
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Brayden
Posts: 9101
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 3:09 am
Location: Canberra ACT
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Zuke-Ute wrote: 1. Can i use the same alternator from F5A-F8B?
2. I have a spare inlet manifold but unsure if it's an F8B one or not? How can you tell if it's the right one?
3. Is there anything else I need to make this conversion happen apart from the obvious i.e new timing belt kit, water pump, coil etc?
1. Depends where the F8B came from. You can't use a Hatch alternator because it doesn't have an internal voltage regulator. Alto and MB both have internal regs.
2. Measure the manifold ports against the F8B head. If they match then you have the right one. F5A has smaller port diameter.
3. F8B (or aftermarket) radiator is a good idea, but not essential.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Zuke-Ute
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun May 24, 2015 5:36 pm
Location: FNQ

Thanks for the info Brayden,

I have no idea what vehicle the F8B motor came from but have made some inquiries with a few suppliers to see what they come up with. I'm unable to find a listing anywhere for a F8B alternator so it's got me a little confused. Might just try and snag a second hand F5A one to get me by and buy a new F8B for the upcoming transplant if i can find one?

I'll check the inlet manifold today, fingers crossed it's the F8B one

Put the word out to ToranaGuy about F8B radiator as it does get pretty hot up here. Not big on cutting corners as It's burned me in the past and you only pay for it later.

I was going to do a little bit of work to the head port matching etc. but after reading all the info on here I can't really see the point. I think the money would be better spent on electronic Dizzy conversion and leave it at that. Reliability is the key i suppose. Have read a few threads on here about both mods but no real feedback from the actual gains afterwards? Anyone have any feedback?

Thanks again
All the best
Dan
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