Diesel Project
Bogie assembled, but without brakes at the moment. Here I have lifted the frame to slide the bogie in. Then I will lower it on to that bar to check if suspension calculations worked. The jackshaft at the rear is located by torque rods to prevent axle windup.
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Most 3 axle bogies rely on compensating bars to even out the load. Clyde Engineering departed from that idea and used a simpler method using 6 sprung axleboxes but then a second subframe with 4 sprung corners. I seem to have underestimated the weight as the springs are partly compressed, so I will add inner duplex coils soon. Frame should end up lower, about level with that line of welds.
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I'm really impressed that an MB auto box can handle the torque of the diesel motor.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
A bit of progress. Transmission and final drive all connected, Now has air brakes, the Honda Civic radiator, fuel system, dummy fuel tanks (to hide the diff) and a spaghetti of wires. Gear selector and throttle are temporary rods. So it's outside and started first time (albeit in a huge cloud of smoke from standing so long) Top up the auto to fill the converter and first tentative steps out on the rail. If all the tests pass, then I'll start the bodywork. Pete
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https://www.facebook.com/peter.nixon.54 ... 092572929/
Out on the track it performs well. Some things to sort out include overheating as motor has no water pump (thermosyphon doesn't work if radiator isn't higher than motor) which can be cured with electric pump. Also alternator is reputed to be only good for 4 amps, which isn't enough to run air compressor, electric fan and water pump. I now have a different 14 amp alternator which might swap without too many probs (other than having no room for anything!)
More worrying is that the torque converter has no slip, it engages at idle. Otherwise the auto is fine. Gears selected manually, while low can be switched in, all other peripherals removed or disabled. Maybe I assembled something wrong when marrying auto to diesel. Any ideas?
Out on the track it performs well. Some things to sort out include overheating as motor has no water pump (thermosyphon doesn't work if radiator isn't higher than motor) which can be cured with electric pump. Also alternator is reputed to be only good for 4 amps, which isn't enough to run air compressor, electric fan and water pump. I now have a different 14 amp alternator which might swap without too many probs (other than having no room for anything!)
More worrying is that the torque converter has no slip, it engages at idle. Otherwise the auto is fine. Gears selected manually, while low can be switched in, all other peripherals removed or disabled. Maybe I assembled something wrong when marrying auto to diesel. Any ideas?
There's not really anything you can assemble incorrectly as far as the torque converter goes. Even in an MB the transmission will drag at 800rpm idle and requires brake force. Only solution I can think of would be a custom torque converter that engages at higher RPM.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Well, as I suggested in reply 2 up, I did indeed assemble something wrong, I used the wrong marks when lining up the bellhousing and the stress finally destroyed the drive plate. Went with a bang. Picked up all the bits and started again. Make new flywheel and add the outer of the flex plate. Realign everything and make sure runout does not exceed .005" (achieved .002")
While the motor was out I listed everything that wasn't "quite right" and set about fixing it. Reversed the radiator, added water pump differently to aleviate air pockets, remove 14amp alternator and make bracket in front of timing cover to take 40 amp alt, running backwards. Electro pnuematics brakes got the chop, subbed with a truck trailer brake valve. Add a new dashboard and a complete rewire and tentatively hit the key.
It works! Idle is smoother and slower (with more flywheel weight). Auto engages gently and smooth. No more overheating and a battery that stays up. A weekend of testing the "naked combo"coming up, then start on alloy body (36 louvered doors, yuck).
Pete
While the motor was out I listed everything that wasn't "quite right" and set about fixing it. Reversed the radiator, added water pump differently to aleviate air pockets, remove 14amp alternator and make bracket in front of timing cover to take 40 amp alt, running backwards. Electro pnuematics brakes got the chop, subbed with a truck trailer brake valve. Add a new dashboard and a complete rewire and tentatively hit the key.
It works! Idle is smoother and slower (with more flywheel weight). Auto engages gently and smooth. No more overheating and a battery that stays up. A weekend of testing the "naked combo"coming up, then start on alloy body (36 louvered doors, yuck).
Pete
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That. Looks. Amazing. 
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
