hey Brayden, plz lemme know the followin thhings!
on NA Tuning and F8B engine, withh cool air intake, headers, 1.75" free flow exhaust piping, Bosch 4+ plugs.
1. the ideal Ignition TIming for performance
2. the ideal valve gaps Intake and eXhaust
3. is there the need to switch to a High Performance Wires and Coil
4. Is there any other mod except turbo which can increase its performance!!
Plz update me on this as soon as possible !! Cheerz ! I owe U!
NA F8B Tuning!
1. 10 degrees BTDC
2. Valve clearances should be adjusted so they don't rattle - it generally won't be an identical value for all valves.
3. I noticed a small increase in smoothness with a Bosch GT coil and 8mm leads, but many others seem to have problems with burning points or the coil itself clapping out if they try the upgrade.
4. Cam regrind, shaved head to up compression, bore and stroke the motor, Weber carby from an 800/850 Fiat (or similar)
I wouldn't bother with Bosch Super4 plugs, they are designed for longevity, not performance. Iridium tips are the way to go, but justifying the cost for the 0.5kw gain is difficult.
2. Valve clearances should be adjusted so they don't rattle - it generally won't be an identical value for all valves.
3. I noticed a small increase in smoothness with a Bosch GT coil and 8mm leads, but many others seem to have problems with burning points or the coil itself clapping out if they try the upgrade.
4. Cam regrind, shaved head to up compression, bore and stroke the motor, Weber carby from an 800/850 Fiat (or similar)
I wouldn't bother with Bosch Super4 plugs, they are designed for longevity, not performance. Iridium tips are the way to go, but justifying the cost for the 0.5kw gain is difficult.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
I went a little more over board with the tuning of my f8b. Because I'm one of those lucky ones with a career heading towards this kinda stuff and at least 4 people in my family are into working cars. Some how we managed to squeeze a 4agze 5 spd gearbox into the bay (after shaving the bellhousing to make room for the adapter plate). I got a prototype (untested) ECU off a guy who makes them for a hobby in sydney. We made a custom flywheel, intake manafold with corolla injectors firing into the bellmouth, a massive Ford TX-5 tubro throttle body and I already had a 1.75" exhaust on it. Bare in mind the fact that on the dyno the car was pushing massive (for a little atlo) 14" wheels from a '89 Prelude, the flywheel is heavier and this was just the initial tuning I managed to get 27 kW at the wheels. I have no idea what id would've been producing after I finished 4 months of fine tuning to make it alot more drivable but, I'm fairly sure I shattered the clutch in it just after it was starting to get fun. Now it'll cost me too much time and money to get it going well again ...
However I obtained a front cut with a F6A DOHC turbo engine and I'll probably run that stock for a while then I might start by putting the ECU that I used on the F8B engine (after a month that spped limiter will probably make me too agro). I was also thinking of modifing plenum chamber off it to fit the turbo engine and also getting rid of the turbo just to see what kind of peak power I can get with the high flow and over sized intake allowing 1 bar to get to the ports with no restrictions and at 8500 rpm (the standard red line). I think I could get a considerable power gain without having joe police man after me 'cause of a weird turbo noise coming from under my bonnet.
However I obtained a front cut with a F6A DOHC turbo engine and I'll probably run that stock for a while then I might start by putting the ECU that I used on the F8B engine (after a month that spped limiter will probably make me too agro). I was also thinking of modifing plenum chamber off it to fit the turbo engine and also getting rid of the turbo just to see what kind of peak power I can get with the high flow and over sized intake allowing 1 bar to get to the ports with no restrictions and at 8500 rpm (the standard red line). I think I could get a considerable power gain without having joe police man after me 'cause of a weird turbo noise coming from under my bonnet.
Sounds awesome Fynn! I envy you. I'm very interested in an affordable F8B ECU solution myself... 
[url=http://www.tamon.org/?page=owners&id=10][img]http://www.tamon.org/forum/images/ute_specs.gif[/img][/url]
The ECU was an Adaptronic and is one of the cheapest on the market ... however it is undergoing constent updates of the software (which are all available on-line) and no-one anywhere deals with them. I got lucky as when I found them the 3 cyl function of the software was in the early development stages (so I got it dirt cheap, you could almost call my car a beta test for it) but, now I'm pritty sure you can get all the features of 4 cyl program to work in the 3 cyl program. I'm not sure how any of it works (software is not a field I'm studying). Anyways the web site for them is http://www.adaptronic.com.au/.
Because my F8B was a carby etc. I basically had to make the Manifold from scratch and everything else. I had the resources to do most of it at home but, if you don't, forget it because, it'll cost you more the importing a whole Works RS/X. When I took it to the Dyno for tuning the guy looked at all the custom work and asked me howmuch I paid for it. I said vertually nothing (most of the bits where left overs from othe projects my family have done). He said B.S. I would have to charge at least $3500 for all of that. (Not including the ECU which retails for around a grand now, I think, more details are on the site)
Because my F8B was a carby etc. I basically had to make the Manifold from scratch and everything else. I had the resources to do most of it at home but, if you don't, forget it because, it'll cost you more the importing a whole Works RS/X. When I took it to the Dyno for tuning the guy looked at all the custom work and asked me howmuch I paid for it. I said vertually nothing (most of the bits where left overs from othe projects my family have done). He said B.S. I would have to charge at least $3500 for all of that. (Not including the ECU which retails for around a grand now, I think, more details are on the site)
Thought I would revise this post... Now, I've been thinking about skimming a bit off my head. I bought the motor from SuziWorld so I think it has been bored 30 or 40 thou.. Should I bother shaving the head at all o up the compression or will it result in too much? I seem to be getting mixed messages from other posts 
I think it might go okay though because the EFI setup I bought of 'hatch4play' was running on his engine which had shaved head and mild cam? Oh yeah, what can be done to the cam anyway, in terms of a regrind?
Thanks
I think it might go okay though because the EFI setup I bought of 'hatch4play' was running on his engine which had shaved head and mild cam? Oh yeah, what can be done to the cam anyway, in terms of a regrind?
Thanks
Speed Limited: I'm Pedalling as Fast as I Can
1987 Mighty Boy
Injected F8B (love it!)
http://www.freewebs.com/fitre/
1987 Mighty Boy
Injected F8B (love it!)
http://www.freewebs.com/fitre/
My recommendation with skimming the head or re-grinding the cams is that you find someone that's knows what they are talking about and had done it before with proven results and the engine hasn't blown up like 1km down the road. It's now been about a year and a half since I wrote that post and not long after the clutch in my car was bent 'cause the person that made the gearbox conversion didn't really know what he was doing. Since then I've put a f6a DOHC turbo engine in my car and as far as bang for my buck that was the best thing I could've ever done but, I did the conversion and I know and few engineers (as I'm studying mech. eng. at uni) they helped out alot and kept the cost way down for me.
Shaving the head and re-grinding the cam will cost you a fair bit and for little power increase. If the person that does it doesn't know that engine they can easily screw your whole engine. The only reason I though of doing it was that you can get it past the cops, pits and rego people with little trouble with no engineer's cert. required. The other thing to think about is that after increasing the compression ratio (especially enough to make a difference in the power output) you'll be eliminating any possiblity of an easy bolt-on turbo mod later on, to turbo it you'll need to get forged pistons and etc. which will end up costing way too much in the end.
I'd probably stick to bolt on mods especially those that will help if you go for a turbo later on, I had a 1 3/4" exhaust and seriously harder suspension and front sway bar that I could use all of after I put my new engine in, all the time effort and money that I spent on the gearbox, intake and efi conversion was practically wasted. I'm holding onto the intake manifold incase I decide to make a mid-engine race car after I finish my degree. The body of my car won't last much longer before I have to sell for parts or scrap it. I know I'm not gonna part with the f6a though, not after the 3 months I spent on the conversion.
Shaving the head and re-grinding the cam will cost you a fair bit and for little power increase. If the person that does it doesn't know that engine they can easily screw your whole engine. The only reason I though of doing it was that you can get it past the cops, pits and rego people with little trouble with no engineer's cert. required. The other thing to think about is that after increasing the compression ratio (especially enough to make a difference in the power output) you'll be eliminating any possiblity of an easy bolt-on turbo mod later on, to turbo it you'll need to get forged pistons and etc. which will end up costing way too much in the end.
I'd probably stick to bolt on mods especially those that will help if you go for a turbo later on, I had a 1 3/4" exhaust and seriously harder suspension and front sway bar that I could use all of after I put my new engine in, all the time effort and money that I spent on the gearbox, intake and efi conversion was practically wasted. I'm holding onto the intake manifold incase I decide to make a mid-engine race car after I finish my degree. The body of my car won't last much longer before I have to sell for parts or scrap it. I know I'm not gonna part with the f6a though, not after the 3 months I spent on the conversion.
Piggy back or other?Fynn wrote: I had a 1 3/4" exhaust and seriously harder suspension and front sway bar ...
I must say I'm very keen on finding out other peoples experiences with N/A. My build eng has so far got a reground cam, balanced internals, and a modified cam gear.
It will definately have a higher compression head, but am unsure of how far I'll go with valves and porting. I'd also love efi, but it looks like a particularly messy install, so I'll no doubt stick with a carb.
Oh and BTW, targa has pretty stringent entry requirements - you cant take any old car...
Piggy back or other? please clarify, the exhaust was a cat-back system
I know the Targa's got the tight entry requirements but, they are the same as if I where to take it to any other event of a similar level ... anyways it'll be a while before I start planning/designing the car and I'll be sure to look up all the requirements for all the events I want to enter it in. You can be sure of that. I think for most entries you need to have some sort of car that's been a factory built car, with "limited modifications" which include from memory no engine swaps, so my Alto with the f6a is out anyway ... and I think anything I build will be too. It's a dream for now but, I might be able to enter a mid-engine clubman if I can register it.
I know the Targa's got the tight entry requirements but, they are the same as if I where to take it to any other event of a similar level ... anyways it'll be a while before I start planning/designing the car and I'll be sure to look up all the requirements for all the events I want to enter it in. You can be sure of that. I think for most entries you need to have some sort of car that's been a factory built car, with "limited modifications" which include from memory no engine swaps, so my Alto with the f6a is out anyway ... and I think anything I build will be too. It's a dream for now but, I might be able to enter a mid-engine clubman if I can register it.
Sorry I didn't get the end of you msg.
It'll be interested to see how your build goes ... the Intake is particularly messy 'cause the coolant flows though the stock manifold but, you probably won't get the full benifits from the internal mods without the manifolds being done too. I'll predict you'll probably end up with like 35-40kW at the fly-wheel and 25-35kW at the wheels ... but, I couldn't tell you what it'll be at the wheels 'cause I din't test mine at the wheels before I modified it.
also the sway bar was from a '93 alto works (I got a '87 alto GA) ... the diameter is about 1.5 time bigger and lets me put a butt-load more power down around corners ... when you get bumps on one side though it gets a little tricky ... on a track it'ld be heaps quick ... I wanna join my local MG car club and start going to track days to test it and get some experience on a track though.
It'll be interested to see how your build goes ... the Intake is particularly messy 'cause the coolant flows though the stock manifold but, you probably won't get the full benifits from the internal mods without the manifolds being done too. I'll predict you'll probably end up with like 35-40kW at the fly-wheel and 25-35kW at the wheels ... but, I couldn't tell you what it'll be at the wheels 'cause I din't test mine at the wheels before I modified it.
also the sway bar was from a '93 alto works (I got a '87 alto GA) ... the diameter is about 1.5 time bigger and lets me put a butt-load more power down around corners ... when you get bumps on one side though it gets a little tricky ... on a track it'ld be heaps quick ... I wanna join my local MG car club and start going to track days to test it and get some experience on a track though.
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stevan_istheman
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Mechanical Engineering Sux!!
I hated it.
Mechanical Engineering Sux!!
I hated it.
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