I'm *assuming* they're only pressed in, but I'd just like to confirm before I try to destroy them the wrong way...
Wheel Bearing replacement
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evilgidget
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 10:22 pm
- Location: Newcastle, NSW
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Does anyone know offhand how to seperate the hub from the carrier to get at the front wheel bearings?
I'm *assuming* they're only pressed in, but I'd just like to confirm before I try to destroy them the wrong way...
I'm *assuming* they're only pressed in, but I'd just like to confirm before I try to destroy them the wrong way...
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evilgidget
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 10:22 pm
- Location: Newcastle, NSW
- Contact:
I figured as much - I've been @rsing about with them for the last couple of hours, ended up leaving the passenger side for now (waiting for the penetrating oil to take effect before I get keen). The driver's side however, it just fell apart when I pulled on the hub... easy fix 
i too have been stuffing around with the front hubs.....and was hoping for some insight into how the disc separates from the hub to get to the bearings.....
it looks like that once off the drive shaft the disc has to be pressed from the hub from the inside to the outside....is this possible without going to a workshop to get it done????? (wheel puller tool or the like??)
also how does the bricks and hammer arangment go???
it looks like that once off the drive shaft the disc has to be pressed from the hub from the inside to the outside....is this possible without going to a workshop to get it done????? (wheel puller tool or the like??)
also how does the bricks and hammer arangment go???
Take it to a workshop... They will chuck it on a press which pushes the front piece away from the back piece and then you have your rotor and bearings etc.
The hammer and brick technique WOULD work, but is too risky i reckon... Basically you sit the rotor on the bricks with the front part of the hub facing the ground (hope i have orientated that correctly) and you hit the middle bit around the edge of the bearing with a socket and it separates the lot...
The hammer and brick technique WOULD work, but is too risky i reckon... Basically you sit the rotor on the bricks with the front part of the hub facing the ground (hope i have orientated that correctly) and you hit the middle bit around the edge of the bearing with a socket and it separates the lot...
Garry. Nuff sed!
have kind of tried that ceej....but it looks to me as if the bearing is attached to the disc/wheel carrier, so that would do nothing but force the bearing on to the disc more. it looks like you have to hold the knuckle part in place and push the disc/bearing away from it????
the only places you could hold the knuckle is on the tie-rod, front shock and control arm attachements.....will look at it again today.
the only places you could hold the knuckle is on the tie-rod, front shock and control arm attachements.....will look at it again today.
I just did mine the other day , unbolt rotor from hub (I completely remove the hub assembly from the car first), support disc with timber blocks on outer disc surface, you'll need a socket that fits the flat surface of the inner hub and hammer. Keep in mind that this is no good for your bearings so if it's really tight you are buggering your bearings. A press or equivelant would be better than a hammer. They don't look like a real expensive bearing so replacement would be best . Hope that helps
finally got mine off...bearing all rusted onto the knuckle.
in the end i was doing it right just not hitting hard enough!!!!
took hub/knuckle off drive shaft, took capiler piston off but not bracket on knuckle(this is used as a way of keeping knuckle still while hub is beaten out) took bolts on disc off so it was free and won't hit the caliper braket when getting hub out, supported caliper bracket on brick and used 24mm socket(25/26mm would be better) and belt the hell out of the hub shaft from the knuckle side..inside to out. the hub will come out, and then could remove the bearings the old fashion way with a piece of drift angled in.
my question now is the kits you can buy for the hatch/alto/mightyboy all come with one bearing not sealed, and one with a seal on one side like the std. ones (6007C3 and 6007LU)....
is there a reason for this as i have always used sealed ones on my motorbikes so that they can't get water damaged (well less likely). i'm inclined to do the same here so that i don't have to worry about them and i can't see myself repacking them with grease....just replacing them every ???km's or when they die.
if anyone is interested the parts are;
C7230 (drive shaft seal on inside) - $5 each
6007 (fully sealed bearings) - $15 each
Kit (includes C7230, 6007C3, 6007LU) - $35.25
thanks for the help guys
in the end i was doing it right just not hitting hard enough!!!!
took hub/knuckle off drive shaft, took capiler piston off but not bracket on knuckle(this is used as a way of keeping knuckle still while hub is beaten out) took bolts on disc off so it was free and won't hit the caliper braket when getting hub out, supported caliper bracket on brick and used 24mm socket(25/26mm would be better) and belt the hell out of the hub shaft from the knuckle side..inside to out. the hub will come out, and then could remove the bearings the old fashion way with a piece of drift angled in.
my question now is the kits you can buy for the hatch/alto/mightyboy all come with one bearing not sealed, and one with a seal on one side like the std. ones (6007C3 and 6007LU)....
is there a reason for this as i have always used sealed ones on my motorbikes so that they can't get water damaged (well less likely). i'm inclined to do the same here so that i don't have to worry about them and i can't see myself repacking them with grease....just replacing them every ???km's or when they die.
if anyone is interested the parts are;
C7230 (drive shaft seal on inside) - $5 each
6007 (fully sealed bearings) - $15 each
Kit (includes C7230, 6007C3, 6007LU) - $35.25
thanks for the help guys
Wouldn't you know it, i was messing around with the hub assembly earlier today, couldn't work out how the hell the hub comes outta the stub axel section. It looks like it's non servicable, but after reading this, i can now see how it's pulled apart. Thanks guys.
I've got a press, but have another job setup in it, so i'll use the " backyard way " to get the job done.
I needed to remove the bit with the wheel studs to fit my spare studs to my boy, i broke a stud the other day. While i'm there i'll change the wheel bearings as well. Broke a stud fitting up my mags, pics will be in my gallery soonish.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
I've got a press, but have another job setup in it, so i'll use the " backyard way " to get the job done.
I needed to remove the bit with the wheel studs to fit my spare studs to my boy, i broke a stud the other day. While i'm there i'll change the wheel bearings as well. Broke a stud fitting up my mags, pics will be in my gallery soonish.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|
I screwed around with it for a while, couldn't get it to budge the " backyard way " so i removed my half done job from my 6ton press, and used that. Makes life so much easier, and they are only about $120 or so from Supercheap.
If you need to do a few bushes or bearings, it will soon pay for itself. Pedders usually charge me $15 per bush, bearing or ball joint to remove & fit replacement part, supplied by me. I've done all the front end on my EB Ford, Hz Panel Van front end, now the Mighty Boy's front end as well. It's well and truly paid for itself. Only problem is shed space to store & use it.
I must admit it tho, i don't have many steel rods & tubes to use with the press, so my Impact socket set comes in mighty handy when i need to use the press.
Of the wheel bearings i replaced, one FAILED the other day, so i put the old one's back in for now. Going to get a set of replacements to do both sides, as i've fixed up the front end and i still have a bit of brake shudder, and i can feel a slight bit of play in the wheel bearings, can't be anything else, all bushes are new. No play in the bj's either. I'll be so glad when this MB is back on the road properly.
IS there a differance between the 6007LU & 6007C3? They Appear the same to me. I have not measured them, but side by side they look the same.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
If you need to do a few bushes or bearings, it will soon pay for itself. Pedders usually charge me $15 per bush, bearing or ball joint to remove & fit replacement part, supplied by me. I've done all the front end on my EB Ford, Hz Panel Van front end, now the Mighty Boy's front end as well. It's well and truly paid for itself. Only problem is shed space to store & use it.
I must admit it tho, i don't have many steel rods & tubes to use with the press, so my Impact socket set comes in mighty handy when i need to use the press.
Of the wheel bearings i replaced, one FAILED the other day, so i put the old one's back in for now. Going to get a set of replacements to do both sides, as i've fixed up the front end and i still have a bit of brake shudder, and i can feel a slight bit of play in the wheel bearings, can't be anything else, all bushes are new. No play in the bj's either. I'll be so glad when this MB is back on the road properly.
IS there a differance between the 6007LU & 6007C3? They Appear the same to me. I have not measured them, but side by side they look the same.
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|
both exactly the same size except one has no seals and the other only has a seal on one side of the balls.
it's better to get fully sealed 6007 bearings (same price as std. ones) as that way you arn't depending just on the seal on the drive shaft to stop dirt and water. just get a reputable brand of bearing NSK, SKF, etc... as the no-name chinese brands race material and ball roundness aren't that good, aparantley.
it's better to get fully sealed 6007 bearings (same price as std. ones) as that way you arn't depending just on the seal on the drive shaft to stop dirt and water. just get a reputable brand of bearing NSK, SKF, etc... as the no-name chinese brands race material and ball roundness aren't that good, aparantley.
I was using Japaneese bearings, NTN iirc. All the 6007's that CBC supplied me, both the 6007Lu's & c3 variants have seals on BOTH sides. They guy said if i was to be using them in a gearbox, pull the seals out of them, otherwise as wheelbearings, leave them alone. So as i was using these as wheel bearings, i left well enough alone.ike849 wrote:both exactly the same size except one has no seals and the other only has a seal on one side of the balls.
it's better to get fully sealed 6007 bearings (same price as std. ones) as that way you arn't depending just on the seal on the drive shaft to stop dirt and water. just get a reputable brand of bearing NSK, SKF, etc... as the no-name chinese brands race material and ball roundness aren't that good, aparantley.
Car's thru RWC now, but still a tiny bit of shudder under brakes. Handbrake doesn't grab smoothly, so i need to get the drums machined now. The RWC guy said it was within acceptable limits, but i don't like any shudder at all. I just hope my drums can be machined, i don't wanna fork out for new ones. Just had to replace the discs. Price was something to cry about!
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|