Team MightyBoy

Hey guys and gals, i have just started to lower my 'Boy, thought it would be a good idea to chuck all the info/pics up here for future reference. So far i have started to do the front using King Springs KSFL-12's (2"drop) (From a Suzuki SA Swift) Which you can pick up at Supercheap auto for $149RRP for both sides. Up the back end, i will be using a set of Holden HR lowering blocks (2" drop) which i got from AutoPro for $89 (prices may vary depending one where you go).

Tools required for the front end job:
Phillips head screwdriver/drill
10mm socket
17mm socket
spring compressors

Now for the interesting bits...

In the beginning...


Step1-Take your 10mm socket and screwdriver to the front bumper bar as to remove it from the brackets and panels. Once removed, take the 1/4 panel off using the screwdriver (there is 3 screws under the bonnet, 1 screw in behind the door one behind the wheel on the bottom, two on the stone gard, and one under the headlight) remove the panel, remembering to disconnect the wiring for the repeator.




Step2-Jack up the car, remove the wheel and fix the spring compressors to the spring and torque till their springs are easy to move (unseated). Then take a 17mm socket to the top strut mount (nut on the top of the strut...)and remove it. The strut will now be loose, and depending on the condition will either retract or stay in position (if it retracts it is worn/stays its good).




Step3-Bring the strut out from under the car so that you can remove the springs etc. To do this i had to remove the strut from the hub as it was too stiff to compress (good sign).





Step4-Fit the new springs over the strut, and replace all of the other components in order. Push the strut top back up through the mounting hole (if your springs are worn you may need to pull them up and quickly get a few threads on them) and fix them in place (if you removed the strut from the hub, replace the two 17mm bolts/nuts). Tighten the top strut nut.





Step5-Replace the wheel and 1/4 panel and everything else you removed, lower the vehicle SLOWLY onto the ground and ensure that everything is seated correctly.



Step5-Repeat for other side...

Approximate time for each side of the front was 60mins, but could easily be done in 30mins. I was just taking my time and getting pics etc.

I haven't started the back yet, waiting on the blocks to come in (so far it has been 5 days ) so will update when i have done that. There is a few more pics in my gallery too if you are interested (http://www.tamon.org/gallery/v/members/ ... /Lowering/)

Here is a picture of the difference in size between my old springs (black) and my new springs (yellow) (Note that the KingSprings are stiffer too, so the old spring compresses to closer to the size of the new springs)

Good stuff mate.
I'm pretty sure that I have the same king springs, but I cant recall them being progressive like in your pics.

wow depending on the outcome of you car. i might be doing this to. btw what's a spring compressor and how much do they cost.

me217

What's your opinion on the spring change , what did it do to the ride and handling?

the spring compressor is the alaminium thing holding the spring

Trevor wrote:What's your opinion on the spring change , what did it do to the ride and handling?

As of yet i haven't driven the ute. Wont be driven till i do the back, or possibly till i get the new wheel nuts and a wheel alignment. I will get back to you on that one. I will say that the new springs are very tight, not sure if this is usually how they start, i would imagine so...

Ceej, why did you take off the guard?

So that the strut could just be pulled to the side and everything just be replaced without removing the strut. Ended up needing to remove the strut from the hub cause they are in good condition (only about 2 years). And to avoid any damage.

Nice wheels!

Good job mate, can't wait for the next installmant!

stevan_istheman wrote:Good job mate, can't wait for the next installmant!

Me either!

It has taken them since last Wednesday (19/1/07) to get me the blocks. They should of had them in last Friday at the latest... Im getting impatient! I should call some of the wheel/tire places and get a few prices on my wheel nuts...

ceej, what is the spring rate of the new springs and do you know the spring rate of the old mightyboy ones??? i would assume they would be the same as the hatch spring rates 1.48kg/mm, but not 100% sure.

also have you looked into the hatch 800cc NON 3-leaf rear setup 2.17kg/mm as opposed to the std 3-leaf 2.6kg/mm which again i'm assuming is the same for the mightyboy??? this would make the rear softer and lower at the same time as it has a lower leaf spring free height (135.5mm/127.5mm versus 156mm) which i gather is the problem with mightyboy's...they are too stiff in the rear.

i'm new to mightyboys and about to start the f8b conversion in a month or so....does the hatch suspension even fit on the mightyboy (front or rear)??? sorry to go off topic a bit, but i'm hoping others are following you thread and might be able to share what spring rates they have used on their suspension upgrades.

ike849 wrote: i'm new to mightyboys and about to start the f8b conversion in a month or so....does the hatch suspension even fit on the mightyboy (front or rear)??? sorry to go off topic a bit, but i'm hoping others are following you thread and might be able to share what spring rates they have used on their suspension upgrades.

All suspension components are identical between an 800 hatch and MB, save for the 3 leaf rear setup.

any update on the progress. i cant wait to see what it looks like when your done. also what size are those rims your putting on.

me217

Lowering blocks finally came in today, started to fit them, but the U-bolts that are supplied with them are too big. I started filing down the locater plug (its WAY too long) and half ass milled out the locater hole too thin...

So tomorrow ill go down to the local Nuts Bolts And Screws shop and get some new bolts. I have heard from the grape vine a set of 50mm U-bolts are the way to go. I just need to make sure that they are high tensile to handle the stress/wear and tear...