Lowering-DIY Guide
I cant tell you the exact parts, but i can tell you that the previous owner spent about $790 on the front end suspension. That does not include bushings for the sway bar, lower control arms/ball joints etc. Shame he didn't spend some money on the rear (still got the old shocks from the factory) 
As far as hubs are concerned, still the same ones it came from the factory with...
As far as hubs are concerned, still the same ones it came from the factory with...
Garry. Nuff sed!
The front struts on ceej's ute are a hybrid of standard carriers, cut down and mixed with some Holden and Hyundai parts.
The previous owner went down that path because he neglected to ask me about alternatives when he found out that new MB struts were no longer available.
The previous owner went down that path because he neglected to ask me about alternatives when he found out that new MB struts were no longer available.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Finally success... After searching several nut/bolt shops i finally found the U-bolts i was after. They were in a caravan store (for trailers etc.) an they cost me $20. Would you believe that a shop called Nuts Bolts and Screws wouldn't stock ANY U-bolts? 
So now over to my grandfathers workshop to mod the blocks to fit, and they should be on the car tonight. Pics to follow...
So now over to my grandfathers workshop to mod the blocks to fit, and they should be on the car tonight. Pics to follow...
Garry. Nuff sed!
Swing by and gimme a looksee if your "workshop" is in the area. 
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Okay! Finally done 
Parts needed:
HR lowering blocks
50x150mm U-bolts (x4)
Tools Required:
Drill/drill bit larger than 1/2"
Hacksaw
File
10mm socket
14mm socket
Step1:-Modify the lowering blocks so that the locater hole and pin fit the axle and leaf locating hole/pin. This me and drilling the locating hole out to something bigger than 1/2" (cant remember what size i used) and cutting down the locater pin and cleaning up the rough edges with a file.
Step2:-Jack up the rear of the vehicle and remove wheels.
Step3:-Remove the 10mm nut that holds the strut onto the leaf setup.
(yeah i know i am writing this different to how the pictures show, second time i learned my lesson )
Step4:-Remove the 4 14mm nuts holding the axle to the leaf, and remove all of the stuff...
Step5:-Insert the lowering block, ensuring that the locater hole and pin line up with that of the axle and leaf. (It's a bit of a wriggle and fiddle sort of job getting it all in there, but it will go in eventually)
Step6:-Tighten up the nuts on the bottom of the U-bolt ensuring that everything aligns properly.
Step7:-Re-fit wheel and repeat for the other side.
And there you go. My car is now lowered 2" all around...
Looks good eh!
P.s. Sorry about the pic quality being low. Taken on my phone...
Parts needed:
HR lowering blocks
50x150mm U-bolts (x4)
Tools Required:
Drill/drill bit larger than 1/2"
Hacksaw
File
10mm socket
14mm socket
Step1:-Modify the lowering blocks so that the locater hole and pin fit the axle and leaf locating hole/pin. This me and drilling the locating hole out to something bigger than 1/2" (cant remember what size i used) and cutting down the locater pin and cleaning up the rough edges with a file.
Step2:-Jack up the rear of the vehicle and remove wheels.
Step3:-Remove the 10mm nut that holds the strut onto the leaf setup.
(yeah i know i am writing this different to how the pictures show, second time i learned my lesson
)Step4:-Remove the 4 14mm nuts holding the axle to the leaf, and remove all of the stuff...
Step5:-Insert the lowering block, ensuring that the locater hole and pin line up with that of the axle and leaf. (It's a bit of a wriggle and fiddle sort of job getting it all in there, but it will go in eventually)
Step6:-Tighten up the nuts on the bottom of the U-bolt ensuring that everything aligns properly.
Step7:-Re-fit wheel and repeat for the other side.
And there you go. My car is now lowered 2" all around...
Looks good eh!
P.s. Sorry about the pic quality being low. Taken on my phone...
Garry. Nuff sed!
ne wide shots of the car that i can compare with the original.
me217
me217
me217
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
The same, but 2" lower. I'm sure you can use your imagination.me217 wrote:ne wide shots of the car that i can compare with the original.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
imagination? what's that. mines bin all used up.
me217
me217
me217
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
looks wicked
cant wait till mine drops
what was the total cost and time of the drop.
me217
cant wait till mine drops
what was the total cost and time of the drop.
me217
me217
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
$149 for the front, $109 for the back and not TOO much time... You will find you will do it faster the second time. Also you may need to replace shocks etc. I will be doing my rears soon as they are farked...
Finding the U-bolts was the hardest thing about this. Just go to a shop where they sell things like caravans and trailers (and accessories to make them).
Other than that my new wheels SHOULD be going on tomorrow. Found my wheel nuts, they are on order and will be here tomorrow hopefully.
Finding the U-bolts was the hardest thing about this. Just go to a shop where they sell things like caravans and trailers (and accessories to make them).
Other than that my new wheels SHOULD be going on tomorrow. Found my wheel nuts, they are on order and will be here tomorrow hopefully.
Garry. Nuff sed!
ok cool.
it looks wicked now btw.
me217
it looks wicked now btw.
me217
me217
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
1985 suzuki mighty boy : mods, f8b
1990 toyota mr2 gt import : mods, turbo timer, short shifter, 2.5" exhaust
1992 suzuki sierra : mods, g16b mpfi, 235's/75, snorkel & lift on the way.
Yeah, i had some that came with the U-bolts that came with the blocks, but they were a different pitch. I will keep ensureing these ones are tight though!Trevor wrote:Good job Ceej, I noticed you didn't use Nylock nuts, so you'll need to re tighten once driven and settled in.
Garry. Nuff sed!