Team MightyBoy

Just an update on info provided by ceej.

If you get lowering blocks made for a Datsun 120Y or Datsun 1200, they will fit the Mighty Boy without any drilling. You will however have to cut 6-7mm off the locating lug for them to sit properly on the MB axle as they are too long.

"If you get lowering blocks made for a Datsun 120Y or Datsun 1200, they will fit the Mighty Boy without any drilling. You will however have to cut 6-7mm off the locating lug for them to sit properly on the MB axle as they are too long."


THis may sound dumb.....but what is the locating lug?????

You guys 100% sure that lowering blocks for a dato will definately fit the MB...with these slight modifications...im gonna buy them off ebay for $120 for 3.5 inch lowering blocks

cheers fellas......does anyone ever go for a city cruise in there MB sat nights?????long weekend coming up......

Does anyone know what this forum member has???? r they lowering blocks??? love thw ride hieght probably about a 4 + inch drop on the rear

http://www.tamon.org/gallery/v/members/ ... /its+back/

Yes the Datsun 120Y/1200 lowering blocks will fit the MB....have them on mine. You will have to find your own u-bolts from a trailer building shop.
Ask for 56mm round u-bolts and at least 150mm long (2' lowering blocks) that are made of 8mm thick rod. (Datsun and pretty much all other u bolts are 10-12mm thick) If you use the 12mm thick rod you will need to drill out the holes on the mounting plate (what the rear gas suspension mounts to) to 14mm. Otherwise the u-bolts will 'splay' apart and you can't use the rubber bump stop with the u-bolt guide rails on it. (needed to keep the rear 'tight' and less flexible)

The locating hole doesn't need to be drilled out to fit the MB leaf spring. The locating lug/pin (the bit that sticks out from the block so that it is located centrally on the leaf spring) has to be trimmed by 6-7mm.

4' drop is quite a lot.... 2' - 2 1/2' is about all i wanted to drop mine otherwise the back will be lower than the front....

Does anyone know what this forum member has???? r they lowering blocks??? love thw ride hieght probably about a 4 + inch drop on the rear

bahahahaha. if you look at all the photos, you'll see the 13cm of building pine and custom made u bolts. that car is sitting on the axle. the is no bump stop. it can not get ant lower with blocks. and no its not legal. the bolts are, thats it.

ive recently finished lowering one of my boys using tips from this thread, very helpfull!

i used holden HR 3" lowering blocks(slightly modified as per this thread), new standard shocks (yes they are still available at Pedders! )

SA front springs, with standard good cond. shocks. im looking for a pair of SA front struts to go that 1" lower in the front (according to threads on this forum)

sorry about the pic quality;






if u dont want to spend any money in lowering, you can always do this....

Is lowering the rear using lowering blocks legal? if so does it need engineering? or does it depend on the amount lowered from standard?
I just want to know before I get the car engineered with the F8b.
Cheers

Lowering blocks are legal so long as they are solid metal and retain the locating pin. 50mm is the largest possible.

Thanks Brayden,
Your a wealth of Knowledge. I will have to find the ruling so I can show the engineer just in case he wants to give me a hard time

i think i have 3 or 4 inch lowering blocks on mine and a single leaf i was thinking bout changing it to a beam axle but go to all that trouble ill hold of and change to an independant rear set up out of a rav 4 or something simular!
front coil over anyone use these ajustables with dampeners? they work really well
http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx11 ... 1082-1.jpg

I'm installing coilovers in the front of mine at the moment, but with upgraded front and rear swaybars I don't see any need to overhaul the rear suspension.

Installing an IRS rear end sounds like a lot of work!

Brayden,
For your front swaybar you used a modified standard one? Do you have pictures or information on your setup?
Thanks

The front swaybar is essentially an additional bar mounted underneath the standard one using poly D bushes. I wouldn't recommend fitting one without doing something on the rear, otherwise it just causes understeer.

Unfortunately due to the size of the mounting hole in the control arms you can't just fit a thicker front swaybar. Hense why I've gone with an extra one. Maybe the Matiz LCA has a larger hole and would allow a thicker bar?

Maybe Billie could answer the question about the LCA and swaybar

im in the process of getting a thincker sway bar with hard bushes on the end of the sway bar as it goes into the control arms you can reduce the shank. and im always lifting a rear wheel pain in the arse some people think thats ok bec go karts often lift a wheel but i will get some parts from the wreckers and fabricate an independant rear set up but not right now.