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Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:49 pm
by casey
fulcrums have reciently taking over a sway bar making joint and all they are doin is getting the original coppied for me

Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:53 pm
by Husky
Im looking at getting the Dato 120 y lowering blocks(2inchs). Could someone please confirm if the u-bolts I need would be 150mmx 55mm inside widthx 10x1.25 thread pitch? Would the dato blocks come with these u bolts or would they be different and if so where are they available on-line or what shop?
Thanks :wink:

Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:15 am
by Husky
So I have done my sa strut conversion and lowered the rear 50mm.
Im very happy with the result and look :)
The only slight issue I have is the front still scrubs on big bumps and aggressive cornering, more easily with 2 people in the car of course.
I want to keep the ride height the same but with less travel.(or progressively stiffer)
What springs can I use? A stiffer MB spring or sa spring? At the moment im using standard MB springs.
The static ride height ie when sitting in the car is great, nice ride height balance between front and rear. I just need them a little stiffer.
What are my options?
Cheers :wink:

Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:55 pm
by Psi_Wagon
sorry i cant help more, but when i first lowered mine i used the lowered king springs (p/n is in this thread) they were a little stiffer than standard but not a great deal.

with the struts i now have (what car they came from is unknown) i have the same physical sized spring that fits in a MB strut, but twice the coils and much thicker coils. these have made a massive difference in the front end stiffness!

moral is, there are stiffer springs available than the stock & king 2" lowered, and much stiffer again with the ones ive got, i just dont know what they are from :P

edit:
by the way what wheels/tyres have you got on? stock wheels shouldnt be anywhere near rubbing.

Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:57 am
by Husky
I have got 165/55/13 40 offset which i think only touch because they are wider than standard and the springs may be a little soft.
Dont get me wrong I can drive the car but as soon as I get up it it will start to scrub.
I turned up 10mm spacers on the lathe last night, going to try and pre load the spring just a little. that might make all the difference. :)

Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:39 pm
by Husky
Does anyone know the standard spring rates lb/in for Front springs and rear leaf on a MB?
Cheers

Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:14 pm
by FunboxR
Good job. Nice to see what DIY on your "Boy".

Are the springs as the same size as Wagon R+? I want to lower my "R" too later.

Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:42 pm
by Husky
I have no idea about interchanging springs on the wagon?
What I have found is that between Standard MB struts and springs and SA Struts(Monroe sa strut effectively has 13mm more stroke than MB strut) and MB springs there is 13mm MORE preload on the MB Strut. I have fitted the the 10mm spacers to Pre load the MB spring abit more and it has lifted the MB around 10mm now it has stopped the scrubbing :) These are the things you find out when you DIY.
Now the only real issue is that the static ride height has increased and the front looks a little high compared with the back :roll:
This is where the SA springs come in.
The king springs(KSFS-12)are 270mm free length however have a higher spring rate. When the car is sitting the springs arent going to compress as much as standard springs(MB).(might even sit higher than MB) maybe fit KSFL-12) lowered spring?
I have noticed the MB spring/strut compresses around 50mm when the car is sitting on its own weight(static sag).
The queston is is either of the sa springs going to give me a suitable ride height or is another spring a option :?: ( the rear is lowered 50mm and I have fitted the sa strut)
Cheers

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:12 pm
by Dave
G'day guys,

I was wondering if the methods used in this lowering DIY guide are also applicable to the hatch?

e.g Datsun/Holden lowering blocks for the rear and the Kings springs for the front.

Cheers
Dave

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:29 pm
by Brayden
Yep, same/same.

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:32 pm
by Dave
Awesome, thanks mate.

Theres a set of Datsun 1200/120y blocks on Ebay now that i'll probably buy :)

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:22 pm
by Husky
Keep in mind for the u- bolts you will need UB57P 57x12x260(cut down to around 150mm for 50 mm lowering blocks). You also need to drill out the u-bolt axle bracket holes to around 13mm so you can squeeze the u-bolt in. :)

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:28 pm
by Dave
Ask for 56mm round u-bolts and at least 150mm long (2' lowering blocks) that are made of 8mm thick rod. (Datsun and pretty much all other u bolts are 10-12mm thick)
I asked the seller if the above U bolts could be supplied with the lowering blocks, rather than the ones that come with it. Are these the correct ones i need?

Cheers
Dave

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:39 pm
by Husky
Ask for 56mm round u-bolts and at least 150mm long (2' lowering blocks) that are made of 8mm thick rod. (Datsun and pretty much all other u bolts are 10-12mm thick)
56mm is the idea width however the 57mm will work fine if you just drill the holes out 1-1.5 mm. The standard u-bolts are 10mm Diameter.
The ones you need with the blocks are 12mm and fit nice and snug around the bumpstops.

when i did mine i ordered the 50mmm lowering block pack
LBNIS5065 (65 MEANING U-BOLT GAP) However i got the 57mm u-bolts seperate. At the time I should have found if they would have been able to supply the correct u-bolts with the lowering block pack as I paided extra to get the right size.

Ask for The 50mm blocks if thats what you want with 2x packs UB57P(u-bolts)
This IS what I have on my MB :wink:

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:52 pm
by Dave
Just to clarify, do i ask for 8mm, 10mm or 12mm diameter U bolts?
:?
Where did you get your lowering blocks from Husky?

Cheers
Dave