G16B is in, none of the previous threads on what to do to your g16b have helped unfortunately all the modifications have been totally different in up to 90 percent of areas. Its a 2001 model engine from a Baleno so not sure if there are differences to the earlier 1996/97/98/99/00 apart form 98 onwards having correct crank angle sensor for front sensor pickup.
1. Used NZ adaptor plate for gbox but need to make many mods to it including brackets to support the engine and custom bolts combos to accomodate for extra length and tight spots.
2. water inlet totally different mount/securing points
3. Right side engine mount had no mods at all but drivers side did opposite other g16 blocks
4. G16 dowel on crank was different on front and back.
5. Radiator used was Honda D16 alloy 3 core with custom thermo fan brackets (perfect fit)
once mod the bottom support crossmber and re-rout the fan wiring. Also extra earthing wire
to make sure this radiator doesnt rust like the others do repeatedly on pre 2002 carry vans.
6. Sump needed all the G13bb bolts swapped over to the g16b block
7. Oil pickup was as usual mod previously described on other threads (brazed larger pickup)
8. different alternator and aircond pump bracket altogether (heavy modifications)
9. Alt and Aircond bracket mount points all different and had to level the 5 bolting points
as they where all at different heights, had to be very careful here using spirit level.
10. Ended up using lighter g13bb crank pulley as the G16b crank is also fully counterweighed
and balanced from factory freeing up a few hp spins up a treat compared to when in baleno.
11. side strengthening brackets modded to bolt to side of gearbox
12. radiator hoses modded to suit 1.25 inch Honda to 1 inch suzuki using brass adaptors from Reece plumbing and quality RTV silicon to permanently seal them.
13. rocker cover must be swapped for ease of oil pouring
14. space hammered up into the well to clear cam sensor pickup as it gave bees dick clearance
15. wiring and hosing cleared up and cleaned up as taller engine causes issues with exhaust closer to some wiring and crank pulley comes to close using original cooling hoses.
16. ported cast manifold, sandblasted, found hairline cracks, machined them out in V grooves and
had it professionally brazed and strengthened with bronze support and bronze welding at 400C which is cast iron and bronze ideal temperature as they have similar metallurgical properties.
Heat proof coated in ceramic grey powdered paint then ovened in steps much cooler running than before.
17. Ported inlet manifold and match ported in and out to suit.
18. APV sump works a treat and blocked normal g16b oil dip stick pipe to use APV one.
19. When back to original injectors as g16b where sitting a tad too long and need a clean yet with the g13bb injectors there is no loss of power, flat spots or differences very strange but happy.
Final conclusion even though I missed a few other mods as there have been so many.
Definitely worthwhile mods but would cost a bundle unless you do it yourself as its much harder
than doing a Jimny or sierra setup which has bolt on kits to suit down to a T.
Heaps of torque now pulls from every gear quite well and easily slips the clutch if not careful
so make sure you run your clutch in or risk going it again. Stronger pressure plate works better
from HWY clutch services increasing clamp helps the extra torque.
Alot of fun driving it easily pulls away at traffic from modern cars falcons and even commodores
and overtakes with ease and wants to keep going no end in available hp or torque.
Gearbox ratios are finally enjoyable along with bigger diameter 14 inch Pulsar chaser rims
Toyo 185/65/14s even up the speedometer and help overall handling and feel over bumps.
Will I do it again.... yes but wouldnt do it from anyone else too much work in mods that where
not seen at first due to expecting other mods, its time consuming but now easy to keep using
other g16b engines or g16aid ones from APV if need be.
I would like to build a honda d16 cranked version with 77mm bores and bigger valved head with
headers and better inlet but for now have noticed its runs much better with bigger exhaust
system as the original one completely broke at the muffler and went much better with less
backpressure not to mention high flow catalyc converter.
Match porting in and out, lighter crankshaft pulley, highflow Cat and bigger exhaust and comparing it to my brothers baleno hatch g16b with 80,000klm engine Im pulling away from him easily in all conditions so Im expecting 6-8hp more hp than stock 92hp.
G16 motor in a 1999 Carry van.
thank you I wish it had that kind of power to need awd! but I would honestly love an AWD carry ute converted to RWD with extended rear section so I could fit a perky J24 in the middle or midmount 
As for 1298cc versus 1590cc I think there is only 22% increase which should fall within the new engineering rules in most states?
In india they have Carry vans called Eeco in droves even high top roof with automatics, China also has them with a g12bb and g14bb like engine its all so weird!
As for 1298cc versus 1590cc I think there is only 22% increase which should fall within the new engineering rules in most states?
In india they have Carry vans called Eeco in droves even high top roof with automatics, China also has them with a g12bb and g14bb like engine its all so weird!
G'day
I am impressed with your success.
A couple of questions:
1. Why did you use the NZ adaptor plate for the gearbox? Was this instead of getting the block modified?
5. What model Honda is the D16 alloy 3 core Radiator out of? and did you still use the Carry thermo fan?
6. Sump needed all the G13bb bolts swapped over to the g16b block. Would the APV bolts have fitted?
8. different alternator and aircond pump bracket altogether (heavy modifications). Did you keep the Carry alternator? I fitted have the Baleno alternator in my van.
11. side strengthening brackets modded to bolt to side of gearbox. Where are these?
I am going to Sydney next week and will be chasing up parts. I only go there every 2 or 3 years.
I am impressed with your success.
A couple of questions:
1. Why did you use the NZ adaptor plate for the gearbox? Was this instead of getting the block modified?
5. What model Honda is the D16 alloy 3 core Radiator out of? and did you still use the Carry thermo fan?
6. Sump needed all the G13bb bolts swapped over to the g16b block. Would the APV bolts have fitted?
8. different alternator and aircond pump bracket altogether (heavy modifications). Did you keep the Carry alternator? I fitted have the Baleno alternator in my van.
11. side strengthening brackets modded to bolt to side of gearbox. Where are these?
I am going to Sydney next week and will be chasing up parts. I only go there every 2 or 3 years.
Once a 2%er, always a 2%er. (old vanners know what I mean)
8, I've currently got the front shaft out of my AWD Carry ute, and it is a handful even with the standard 1298 engine. In the wet it's very difficult to pull out at T-intersections without wheelspin, requiring a bigger break in traffic than usual. I've found a decent sized toolbox tends to help.. 
--- I hate pretty much all crowded cities and specially sydney roads, I avoid cities at all costs.oldvanman wrote:G'day
I am impressed with your success.
A couple of questions:
1. Why did you use the NZ adaptor plate for the gearbox? Was this instead of getting the block modified?
--- yes no block mods
5. What model Honda is the D16 alloy 3 core Radiator out of? and did you still use the Carry thermo fan?
---- honda d16 engine 92-93 civic, same thermo custom brackets will get pics
radiator was 95aud picked up from altona joint, fan housing is spot on in width and height like factory just brackets are a pain (will get pics) and alloy radiator needs extra earthing to avoid corrosion which is a common issue with this model.
6. Sump needed all the G13bb bolts swapped over to the g16b block. Would the APV bolts have fitted?
-----need to use g13bb studs instead of g16 bolts
8. different alternator and aircond pump bracket altogether (heavy modifications). Did you keep the Carry alternator? I fitted have the Baleno alternator in my van.
----I used the g13bb bracket as a base and modified it and used the g13bb alt
11. side strengthening brackets modded to bolt to side of gearbox. Where are these?
---ill have to get pics but they sit right at the bottom of the box or the around 30 degrees down from passenger side of engine.
I am going to Sydney next week and will be chasing up parts. I only go there every 2 or 3 years.
I think the AWD has very high gearing compared to the rwd only ice cream box counterpart.Kruizin wrote:8, I've currently got the front shaft out of my AWD Carry ute, and it is a handful even with the standard 1298 engine. In the wet it's very difficult to pull out at T-intersections without wheelspin, requiring a bigger break in traffic than usual. I've found a decent sized toolbox tends to help..
The toolbox is like the sandbag in the back of drag utes
)Anyone have data on the diff ratios of the van and ute?
Id love to have a mini spool
cheap toohttp://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... 043-3.html
Might build a g16 with 77mm bores, better rods, valves and camshaft on the side
Honda pistons give more comp but before all this will really need to solve the
check engine light coming on at inorportune times even with the g13bb its seems
the timing goes temporarily out and has nothing to do with the coilpacks as Ive
changed them quite a few times already and also the rear timing pickup. weird
The g16b is actually wheelspinning, chirping and squealing the rubber in my van a tad on some turns but I reckon you could also have a very heavy right footKruizin wrote:I don't know the ratios, but I've owned both and I believe they're exactly the same in the 99+ models..
The ute must be was lighter for sure! without the fwd must be a featherweight! Id love a ute!!!!
G'dayKruizin wrote:I don't know the ratios, but I've owned both and I believe they're exactly the same in the 99+ models..
I remember reading that the ute has a slightly higher ratio. I have tried to find where I saw the info. I was looking at just importing the gearbox and front end but would have had to get the rear diff centre as well. Started to get expensive.
The wrecker I contacted has an APV sump for me. I will pick it up tomorrow when I am in Sydney. I will look at getting a Honda radiator.
Once a 2%er, always a 2%er. (old vanners know what I mean)
If you want to run without the mains girdle on the g16b you can run with the stock sump but its up to you and although the girdle keeps the mains a little firmer some say its not needed, however the new position of the g16b been taller and on a slant would be safer with the mains girdle for that little extra.
I have an extra apv sump for my brothers carry if someone needs it, its up for sale as my brother has now a new Kia diesel ute which is slower than my grannie trying to run away from the nurse
I have an extra apv sump for my brothers carry if someone needs it, its up for sale as my brother has now a new Kia diesel ute which is slower than my grannie trying to run away from the nurse
G'dayoldvanman wrote:G'dayKruizin wrote:I don't know the ratios, but I've owned both and I believe they're exactly the same in the 99+ models..
I remember reading that the ute has a slightly higher ratio. I have tried to find where I saw the info. I was looking at just importing the gearbox and front end but would have had to get the rear diff centre as well. Started to get expensive.
I remember reading it in a brochure. There is a difference. Final ratios are Van 4.300, Ute 4.555
Also the ute has a slightly longer wheelbase.
Aussie and Pommy brochures are available here:
http://www.suzuki4u.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... b5f803397b
Once a 2%er, always a 2%er. (old vanners know what I mean)
Thanks OMV for the brochures very helpful - looks like the van is much heavier and 4.3 instead of 4.555 for the ute which is also quite a lightweight! love to have a ute with rwd only and worked G16b 
Just putting it out there.....
1. I wonder if we can replace our diff centres if need be with sierra or jimny centres?
2. Is there a way to have direct contact with Maruti Suzuki or the Chinese version Djuglong or whatever it is for parts that go to crap like sliding door handles have broken twice already, headlights, tailights and other parts that are hard to source but common there.
I changed the exhaust system from 1.5 inch to 1 3/4 inch also 2 litre mitsubishi muffler instead of baleno one, free flow cat converter and the gearing has improved dramatically. Seems torque has gone up allowing it to creep forward like an auto in any gear which leads me to believe there was still a bottle neck in the system when going to small or conservative. Tone is much deeper now too.
It seems these long stroke (90mm) engines like to have free flowing exhausts and Im wondering if one of the Tighe camshafts would be a worthwhile investment along with a header system and bigger exhaust valves to match a Honda D16 and reach the 130hp ate.
http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm
cam no: 685B
It has decent duration and lift without going overboard as it has solid lifters and adjustable rockers should really be well suited.
The other thing to note is that there is no airflow meter on the Carry but supposedly there is on the GTi g13b motors which means that in NA these engines have alot to offer for peppy performance providing the mods are not too extreme but for reasonable performance.
Just putting it out there.....
1. I wonder if we can replace our diff centres if need be with sierra or jimny centres?
2. Is there a way to have direct contact with Maruti Suzuki or the Chinese version Djuglong or whatever it is for parts that go to crap like sliding door handles have broken twice already, headlights, tailights and other parts that are hard to source but common there.
I changed the exhaust system from 1.5 inch to 1 3/4 inch also 2 litre mitsubishi muffler instead of baleno one, free flow cat converter and the gearing has improved dramatically. Seems torque has gone up allowing it to creep forward like an auto in any gear which leads me to believe there was still a bottle neck in the system when going to small or conservative. Tone is much deeper now too.
It seems these long stroke (90mm) engines like to have free flowing exhausts and Im wondering if one of the Tighe camshafts would be a worthwhile investment along with a header system and bigger exhaust valves to match a Honda D16 and reach the 130hp ate.
http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm
cam no: 685B
It has decent duration and lift without going overboard as it has solid lifters and adjustable rockers should really be well suited.
The other thing to note is that there is no airflow meter on the Carry but supposedly there is on the GTi g13b motors which means that in NA these engines have alot to offer for peppy performance providing the mods are not too extreme but for reasonable performance.
G'day
I bought a Suzuki Vitara Swift Alto Baleno Steering Wheel Boss Kit on ebayUK for about $15. plus $15 freight. I still have the box that it came in. I will dig it out on the weekend.
Here is a link to the story with pictures:
http://www.suzuki4u.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5678
I am still trying to find someone to make a set of extractors.
Regards
I bought a Suzuki Vitara Swift Alto Baleno Steering Wheel Boss Kit on ebayUK for about $15. plus $15 freight. I still have the box that it came in. I will dig it out on the weekend.
Here is a link to the story with pictures:
http://www.suzuki4u.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5678
I am still trying to find someone to make a set of extractors.
Regards
Once a 2%er, always a 2%er. (old vanners know what I mean)