Suzuki Hatch 800 carby/overfuelling problems
Did you take the belt off?
If you didnt it wouldnt be 180 out, just turn the dizzy back the other way and get someone to crank while you slightly move it, until you here it trying to start then keep going til, well it starts.
If you didnt it wouldnt be 180 out, just turn the dizzy back the other way and get someone to crank while you slightly move it, until you here it trying to start then keep going til, well it starts.
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Nah didn't take it off. I took the dizzy off and lined the rotor thingo up with the mark it's ment to be at, lined up the 7 degree mark, popped the dizzy back in then went to try start it, and all i got was backfires from exhaust and carby and puffs of smoke from the exhaust everytime it back fired. So i took the dizzy off again, lined it up etc etc. Now it cranks over but wont start. and after a few cranks it sounds like something is jamming up. Kinda hard to explain whats going on.
I'm confused.
What Billie is describing is how to set the timing statically - i.e. how to get it somewhat close before you fire the engine up...
The motor needs to have #1 piston at TDC (at which point, both valves are shut) AND the dissy rotor pointing toward the #1 pickup point (or somewhere close) for the engine to fire.
If you removed the Dissy at some stage, and replaced it WITHOUT having #1 cylinder at TDC, then as the rotor sweeps past as you're cranking the motor, the ignition system will send a pulse at the wrong time - the cylinder won't be shut. IF the fuel does ignite in the cylinder, it will blow out the valve that's open because you dont have it STATICALLY timed to TDC and you'll get a bang out the exhaust or out the carby depending on whichever valve is open when the ignition fires. This way, you'll NEVER get the engine to run smoothly (if at all). and depending on just where in the cycle the piston/valves/cylinder is when the ignition fires the fuel, you can bend or break parts easily.
There are several ways to ensure the engine is at #1 TDC - Billie's suggestion of looking in the flywheel viewing port at the timing marks is maybe the easiest.
What Billie is describing is how to set the timing statically - i.e. how to get it somewhat close before you fire the engine up...
A Timing light is used to adjust the timing Dynamically - i.e. once the motor is running - but you go on to saySet it with the timing light etc
???and it won't start.
The motor needs to have #1 piston at TDC (at which point, both valves are shut) AND the dissy rotor pointing toward the #1 pickup point (or somewhere close) for the engine to fire.
If you removed the Dissy at some stage, and replaced it WITHOUT having #1 cylinder at TDC, then as the rotor sweeps past as you're cranking the motor, the ignition system will send a pulse at the wrong time - the cylinder won't be shut. IF the fuel does ignite in the cylinder, it will blow out the valve that's open because you dont have it STATICALLY timed to TDC and you'll get a bang out the exhaust or out the carby depending on whichever valve is open when the ignition fires. This way, you'll NEVER get the engine to run smoothly (if at all). and depending on just where in the cycle the piston/valves/cylinder is when the ignition fires the fuel, you can bend or break parts easily.
There are several ways to ensure the engine is at #1 TDC - Billie's suggestion of looking in the flywheel viewing port at the timing marks is maybe the easiest.
Tez
So the adventure continues...
So the adventure continues...
The easiest way is with the head off, but it makes it easier if the head is allready of lol.
Yeah forgot to say, gotta use a timing light once you get the thing chugging, the way i said will just get it to kick over, probz run like shit til its adjusted properly.
Yeah forgot to say, gotta use a timing light once you get the thing chugging, the way i said will just get it to kick over, probz run like shit til its adjusted properly.
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Ok, so the car WAS running before i stuffed it, but it was running really crap. I lined up the timing marks through the little peep hole, noticed the rotor wasn't pointing to the mark on the distributor housing, so i popped the distributor off and lined the rotor up with the mark on the housing, put it back on and when i tried to start it all i got was backfires out of carby and exhaust. Didn't sound like a good thing to me so i repeated what i did before.
Going by what you guys have said, i don't think i had piston 1 at tdc, and i may have bent or broken something? If you have the 7degree timing marks lined up in the little hole does that automatically mean #1 is at tdc?
What could i have bent or broken? From the sounds the car makes when i'm trying to start it it sounds like something could be bent or broken and jamming something up in the motor somewhere along the line. I have no idea what's going on
lol
Going by what you guys have said, i don't think i had piston 1 at tdc, and i may have bent or broken something? If you have the 7degree timing marks lined up in the little hole does that automatically mean #1 is at tdc?
What could i have bent or broken? From the sounds the car makes when i'm trying to start it it sounds like something could be bent or broken and jamming something up in the motor somewhere along the line. I have no idea what's going on
lolDave.
The 7deg BTDC mark is just that - 7 degrees of crankshaft angle Before Top Dead Centre - NOT TDC. IIRC setting the dissy up at TDC should get it running, but it will be quite retarded - it won't have much power at all - but it's a starting point to getting it tuned up correctly. - Typically, a correctly timed engine would fire the plug at idle at 7 degrees before the piston gets to the top of it's stroke. - What happens is the instant the plug fires, the fuel/air mixture in the cylinder is quite compressed and being squeezed more. Now, as the spark ignites the fuel and the flame propogates across the surface of the piston and really begins expanding, (which takes a few nano-seconds) the piston reaches the top of it's stroke and as the pressure from the expanding gases comes on, the cylinder is just beginning it's travel down on the power stroke. - This is how a "correctly" tuned engine should run. Now to add a wrinkle to that, as you rev the engine, the time taken for the piston to reach the top of it's cycle and then start down on the power stroke gets less (coz the motor is spinning faster!) but the time taken for the flame front to travel through the air/fuel mix is the same, so left to it's own devices, the motor would naturally retard itself, except that, we have a vacuum advance fitted to the Dissy which causes the spark to occur - i.e. the flame starts earlier - as the motor revs faster, so the net result is smooth power across the rev range by the dissy advancing or retarding as necessary.
So endeth the lesson.
Now, if you've got it ticking over again, but it sounds like there is something banging or crunching in there, quite possibly you have bent a valve or something else. Unfortunately I think the best course of action from here would be to strip the motor down and inspect the internal parts for damage... Sorry to say...
The 7deg BTDC mark is just that - 7 degrees of crankshaft angle Before Top Dead Centre - NOT TDC. IIRC setting the dissy up at TDC should get it running, but it will be quite retarded - it won't have much power at all - but it's a starting point to getting it tuned up correctly. - Typically, a correctly timed engine would fire the plug at idle at 7 degrees before the piston gets to the top of it's stroke. - What happens is the instant the plug fires, the fuel/air mixture in the cylinder is quite compressed and being squeezed more. Now, as the spark ignites the fuel and the flame propogates across the surface of the piston and really begins expanding, (which takes a few nano-seconds) the piston reaches the top of it's stroke and as the pressure from the expanding gases comes on, the cylinder is just beginning it's travel down on the power stroke. - This is how a "correctly" tuned engine should run. Now to add a wrinkle to that, as you rev the engine, the time taken for the piston to reach the top of it's cycle and then start down on the power stroke gets less (coz the motor is spinning faster!) but the time taken for the flame front to travel through the air/fuel mix is the same, so left to it's own devices, the motor would naturally retard itself, except that, we have a vacuum advance fitted to the Dissy which causes the spark to occur - i.e. the flame starts earlier - as the motor revs faster, so the net result is smooth power across the rev range by the dissy advancing or retarding as necessary.
So endeth the lesson.
Now, if you've got it ticking over again, but it sounds like there is something banging or crunching in there, quite possibly you have bent a valve or something else. Unfortunately I think the best course of action from here would be to strip the motor down and inspect the internal parts for damage... Sorry to say...
Tez
So the adventure continues...
So the adventure continues...
Just messed with some stuff and managed to snap a bolt that holds the dizzy on 
. I'd go for a mechanic, but at 340000 k's the engine seems to be pretty problematic. I might just chuck the slightly healthier and less km engine from the boy in. pretty sure it needs new rings though because it blows heaps of smoke from the rocker cover breather thing. Then try track down another F8B for the MB
. I'd go for a mechanic, but at 340000 k's the engine seems to be pretty problematic. I might just chuck the slightly healthier and less km engine from the boy in. pretty sure it needs new rings though because it blows heaps of smoke from the rocker cover breather thing. Then try track down another F8B for the MB