Suzuki Hatch 800 carby/overfuelling problems

[Dave]

I spose i can just put up with the embarasment at traffic lights for a while. It only has to get me by until i do an engine conversion. Definately needs an oil catch can though. Seems to push a fair bit of oil out as well.

[Dave]

Hey,

Before I got pulling engines out and shit, just want to clarify something because I'm pretty confused lol.

So after reading through the workshop manual, this thread and a few old threads, it sounds like what I've done is set the timing but didn't have #1 on the compression stroke (i think). So going by what I've said in previous posts in this thread, does this sound correct?

If that is in fact what I have done, what's the worst damage that could have happened while trying to start it?

Also, would it be worthwhile having one more go at trying to get it going by pulling the timing belt cover off, timing belt, dizzy etc, lining everything up correctly (TDC marks etc) lining rotor and dizzy up (making sure #1 is on compression stroke of course )?

And if I've got the dizzy off, do I line up the 7 degree BTDC mark and put it back on with the rotor in the right spot, orrrr......??!

So yeah, if I haven't made it obvious in my previous posts in here, I've stuffed up and now I'm extremely confused. I also just remembered i have to get the bolt that holds the dizzy on out that I snapped!

[rf4burns]

Well the worst you could have probably done is bend valves and make a few marks in the top of your pistons. Dont know what motor you've got there Dave but if you have a look at my post in projects this maybe of assistance in reguards timing set up

[Dave]

Well the worst you could have probably done is bend valves and make a few marks in the top of your pistons. Dont know what motor you've got there Dave but if you have a look at my post in projects this maybe of assistance in reguards timing set up

It's an F8B. Would the motor still run with bent valves? Or would bent valves cause it to kind of sieze up?

I had a look at your project page. The trick with the test lamp to adjust timing is cool, wish i knew that about a week ago. I was kinda pissed paying $110 for a timing light that I'll probably only use once lol.

Cheers mate.

[rf4burns]

Well sort of depends how badly bent they were , you could get an idea if there are any bent by removing the tappet cover and turning the motor over using a rachet/socket on the front pulley bolt (remove the spark plugs) as you are turning it over each valve will be pushed down by a rocker arm ,if you notice a valve rocker that seems to be loose all the time or a valve that seems to have a spring compressed all the time then yup you have probably bent that valve.Yup the test lamp works ok (not as good as a light though but cheaper)

[Dave]

Well sort of depends how badly bent they were , you could get an idea if there are any bent by removing the tappet cover and turning the motor over using a rachet/socket on the front pulley bolt (remove the spark plugs) as you are turning it over each valve will be pushed down by a rocker arm ,if you notice a valve rocker that seems to be loose all the time or a valve that seems to have a spring compressed all the time then yup you have probably bent that valve.Yup the test lamp works ok (not as good as a light though but cheaper)

Yeah thanks mate. I'll pull the tappet cover off tomorrow and check it out. Hopefully they aren't bent No biggie really though.

Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions?

[Tez]

I don't think the valves will be bent... You haven't (YET!) removed or moved the timing belt have you? - only the distributor IIRC?
The Valves will only cop a whacking if the timing belt & cam is out of synch with respect to the crankshaft. - I think I'd have another go at ensuring you have the engine @ #1 TDC and reset your distributor & try that... If you had the dissy out, did you fiddle with the points? - If you've moved them, then that could cause it to not start too...

[rf4burns]

Tez is spot on with

I don't think the valves will be bent... You haven't (YET!) removed or moved the timing belt have you? - only the distributor IIRC?

so if you havent removed the belt yet you probably have it set to far advanced.

[Dave]

I don't think the valves will be bent... You haven't (YET!) removed or moved the timing belt have you? - only the distributor IIRC?
The Valves will only cop a whacking if the timing belt & cam is out of synch with respect to the crankshaft. - I think I'd have another go at ensuring you have the engine @ #1 TDC and reset your distributor & try that... If you had the dissy out, did you fiddle with the points? - If you've moved them, then that could cause it to not start too...

Nah, haven't touched it, only the distributor. And while I had it off I replaced the points, but i set the gap etc, so I'm not sure

I'll have a play with it either today or tomorrow, most likely tomorrow, because I'm still pissed off at it . Must not lose faith in the poor old girl though

[shavenyak]

I had this same problem the first time I pulled off my distributor on the F8B.

The issue was that I got confused by what the manual says on page 4-44 about putting the distributor back in:

"... insert the distributor into the case, with center of the distributor rotor lined up with the embossed mark on distributor housing as shown in Fig. 4-145."

I took this to mean that the marks should line up after the dissy is back IN the head. But in fact you line up the marks first - then slide the dissy in. The rotor will move as you push the dissy in, but will end up where it's supposed to be at #1 cylinder TDC.


Hope that helps!

[Dave]

Thanks Shavenyak. Problem has been sorted for a while now though I just forgot to let everyone know