need help with engine swap/install plenty of q's, fuel pump?

[havabeer]

hi everyone, first post on here

i bought a suzuki SV 90 carry a few months ago with the intention of getting her going as a cheap daily drive to work. i bought it from a guy who sold it to me with 2 engines (neither in the car) one engine was pretty shat and the other one he said he'd just finished giving it a recondition (new piston rings, welsh plugs etc) and had the intention of getting the car going but had to sell it for space, and the fact he already had another carry.

i made a mistake of not compression testing it there and then, because i compression tested it and i'm getting results of

cyl #1 30kpa
cly #2 0
cly #3 0
cly #4 30

i'm certain the timing is right. going to borrow a mates compression gauge to make sure its not just my gauge giving me shit readings. so what else can i do to fix my compression??


another problem i'm having is wiring. i've obviously got a short somewhere because my clutch and accelerator cables are getting really hot when i'm trying to turn the car over and i'll occasionally see some smoke or a spark on the engine.

so where do i need to earth the batter to? at the moment i have it going to the gearbox rear mount. and with the positive. where abouts on the starter motor do i put it? pictures of this would be greatly appreciated.



with fuel. did the st90's have a fuel pump, or is it just vaccum fed to the carby?

thanks to anyone who can give me some information about getting this car up and running. also i've posted up a link to the carry workshop manual i scanned a while back its in this thread.

http://www.tamon.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=42606#42606

thanks again

[NozMonkeys]

Hot cables could be poor conductivity, high resistance cables, high resisitance in the stator motor. The positive terminal from the battery goes directly to the stater motors positive terminal. Also make sure your earth cable is earthed to the engine and chassis is good spots.

The carry stater motor on my F10a has a ballast resistor and 2 activation terminals. Make sure they are both on.

Your compressions could be that the valves have shit on the valve seats or that the incorrect rings were used (too small) or he over bored it. Or that the timing is insanely out.

[havabeer]

thanks for the reply

yeah i just realised i've made a few mistakes, with my earth where the cable is attached i realised it wouldn't have been able to go through the rubber mount (duh) and would be finding other ways to earth its self back to the battery, hence why hot cables, as i connected a jumper lead from the neg on the battery straight to the gear box and no problems any more

i added some oil to gear box. and the engine cranks over perfect now. and have some different compression results now and squirted some oil in there as well

cyl #1 90 dry, with oil = 130
cyl #2 0 dry, with oil = 30
cly #3 60 dry, with oil = 80
cyl #4 110 dry, with oil = 160

so some mixed results there.

still need to find out about if the car has a fuel pump or not. as i can't seem to see one and would like to avoid dropping the fuel tank if i can.

[NozMonkeys]

If the engines in and theres shit on the valve seats your best bet is to try fire her up and hope like hell the compressions improve.

I rebuilt an engine but didn't lap the valves and the compressions of 3 cylinders were about 70 at the lowest. After it was started an ran the compressions rose. But if you added oil and the compression increased it is a hint that the rings are gone.

Are you able to do a cylinder leakdown test? Set the piston to TDC and blow sealed compressed air into the cylinder. All you need is an attachment to fit the sparkplug hole and a compressor. Then listen to where the airs escaping such as the oil filler cap (rings), intake manifold (intake valve) exhaust (exhaust valve)

The carrys have an electric diaphram fuel pump located on the right hand side next to the fuel tank. I forgot the name they call the pumps but they tick like a time bomb.

I'm not sure what size engine you've got. But the F10a compression is up around 180 psi when healthy. Although mine was at 155 and didn't blow any smoke of use water.

[havabeer]

yeah as they're new rings and the engine hasn't run since having them installed if that has something to do with the low comression as they probably haven't sealed properly yet?

yeah the engine i'm sure is an F10 block with an 800cc head.

i'll have to go searching for the fuel pump again then

[NozMonkeys]

Perhaps he used the wrong combination of timing belt or timing pulley size to match the cranks rotation? I really don't know how they figure out the maths to put a different head on and find the correct timing belt and number of teeth on the sprocket.

Usually the rings should seal right from the start, thus the reason the block is honed to break in the new rings as best as possible.

What condition did you get the van in? Was the "apparently" rebuilt motor already in the van or did you put it in. If it was already in maybe he realised he buggered something.

[havabeer]

still couldnt find the fuel pump still. only found a breather bottle.

so went out and bought a generic one from repco. will hopefully hook it up tomorrow and see if it'll start.

[havabeer]

hooked up the fuel pump. getting lots of blue smoke wafting around when i crank the car with the rocker cover off.


can someone tell me with the timing. is the F10A ment to be 8 degres BTDC or 14 degrees?

my 4 speed gear box sticker says 14 but the sticker on the car's body says 8?

[NozMonkeys]

I would go with the sticker on the body. But since you said you've got a f10 head on the 800cc block then you should really time it by ear.

Set the timing at 0 degrees and road test on a hill facing upwards (stepper the better). Now chuck it in 2nd and labour it without stalling. You will head detonation. It sounds like a bad rattle. Adjust the distributor very slightly and try again until you can't hear detonation/pinking/pinging.

How come you've got the rocker cover off and cranking it? Were you setting the valve clearances?

[havabeer]

hey noz thanks for all the help

its actually the other way around. 800cc head on the F10A block (at least i think its the 800cc head. the only stamping i can find on it says 800)

i'm still can't get the car started let alone road test it


i've actually re read the manual and i think my timing might be out by one full rotation of the crank. so i dont know if i've buggered the valves from this.

as i have it all lined up like this:




but the the markings on the fly wheel aren't visible so i think its out one full turn :S

[NozMonkeys]

Well the camshaft sprocket should have 2 markings 180 degrees around the sprocket. I guess if its on compression stroke of the valves you will be able to rock the cam without a lobe making the sprocket turn about 1/4 in a big thump.

Check how your timing is first. Get in there with some brake clean and be definite about where the position of things are before you remove the belt.

Looking at the diagram the key of each sprocket lines up with a marking so it'l be quite easy to see if the timings out. Make sure to set cylinder 1 to TDC on compression stroke.

You may get away lucky.

[kensvan]

Hi have a beer(light ice) There is a few things that we need to clarify,you said you have a st-90,these had a 800cc and the fuel pump is mounted on the rear of the head were num 4 spark plug is.the super carry fuel pump is mounted just in front of the fuel tank r/h side.next check your valve clearance as per the book.for a 970cc motor-set your timming at 6deg b.t.c--for a 800cc set your timming at 14deg b.t.c.on the right hand side of the block where the gearbox bolts on,the size of the engine will be stamped there.see how you go...ken

[havabeer]

yep its definitely an f10a. Yeah blue smoke could be the oil i had in the cylinders from compression test burning off. But it looks like its spurting out the intake valves.

I turned the crank around one turn. Compression seems to have dropped though, but i think its set at 14 BTDC

Think i might save my self the head ache and try and find a working engine to throw in. What else Do the F10A's come out of besides carrys??

[Brayden]

Older Sierras, but the sump/manifolds/oil system are different between those and the Carry version.