Not cheap, around $80-$90 dollars each from memoryRF4Burns Build
when i got mine last they were from the local holden joint, suzi part number and all
Well haven't been able to find strut mounts at a reasonable price ($102.80each 
) so will be re-coning. 1st removal of struts
loosen wheel nuts and 17mm strut support nut and 3 12mm strut mount nuts (strut mount under bonnet)
jack up car (from frame so suspension hangs down) remove wheel and bottom two strut mount bolts (17mm)
also remove brake lines
Now go back and remove the 3 12mm nuts from the top of the strut this will allow removal.
) so will be re-coning. 1st removal of strutsloosen wheel nuts and 17mm strut support nut and 3 12mm strut mount nuts (strut mount under bonnet)
- LOOSEN top nuts
- remove bottom mount bolts
- brake line
- brake line removal
Last edited by rf4burns on Sun Sep 18, 2011 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Get with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE
To dismantle the struts a spring compressor is required (it is possible to make one however I would recommend buying one Springs should be treated with caution and respect even on a vehicle as small as this they are easily able to inflict some nasty damage to you -range from $20 to about $60 depending on type).Place the spring compressors opposite each other on spring coils
Tighten the compressors evenly(you can check to see if the compressors are tight enough as the strut will turn freely inside the spring -( no tension pushing on it)
once you are certain the spring is compressed enough remove the top nut (the one you loosen prior to removal)
and dismantle the strut.the spring compressors can be loosened off and removed
- place sping compressor
- tighten compessor's
- remove top nut
- dissmantle
Last edited by rf4burns on Sun Sep 18, 2011 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Get with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE
then a mould needs to be made of the bottom of the strut support (I am using a couple of different things and what you use will depend on your budget/time)
1st and easy to get Silastic (I used a hi temp type but any silicon sealer will be fine) I greased the mount 1st to ensure the silastic did not stick to the mount and the mould would release. While this is a cheap mould you need to give it plenty of time to cure before removing (about 4 days
in my case)
Then when removed some patch up's need to be done (fill any voids etc...)
Also model clay (air dry) may be used (no release/grease is required for this as the clay shrinks about 7%)
I have two of these drying at the moment (this is preventing me from showing the final fastest, and my preferred method for making the mould's as I only have two strut mounts to work with 
)
Well it dried (not happy with result 
haven't used this much clay before)with a few cracks so will patch them then paint with acrylic paint to seal
1st and easy to get Silastic (I used a hi temp type but any silicon sealer will be fine) I greased the mount 1st to ensure the silastic did not stick to the mount and the mould would release. While this is a cheap mould you need to give it plenty of time to cure before removing (about 4 days
in my case)
- Silastic
- result
- Air dry model clay
)
- Awaiting dry
haven't used this much clay before)with a few cracks so will patch them then paint with acrylic paint to seal
- dry
Last edited by rf4burns on Sun Sep 18, 2011 10:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Get with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE
I have found (and previously posted)that the prices for the bearing plates/strut mounting bushes vary markedly the further you are from the Melbourne warehouse - the freight used/charged by the Suzuki/Holden dealer spares outlets is nonsense. I have suggested we see if a member in Melbourne can purchase & mail for significant savings.
Some damaged Phillips head screws can be removed by drilling a hole no larger than the centre depression in the head somewhere around 1 -2 millimetres deep(the larger the screw the deeper you go). Insert the correct size impact bit without the impact driver body & apply a few taps (hammer),not too hard so as to shatter the bit. This will in most cases re-form the head sufficiently to use the impact driver to remove the screw. Where possible, replace with a new screw.
Some damaged Phillips head screws can be removed by drilling a hole no larger than the centre depression in the head somewhere around 1 -2 millimetres deep(the larger the screw the deeper you go). Insert the correct size impact bit without the impact driver body & apply a few taps (hammer),not too hard so as to shatter the bit. This will in most cases re-form the head sufficiently to use the impact driver to remove the screw. Where possible, replace with a new screw.
So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
Gadj, yeah saw a couple of those post's
http://www.teammightyboy.com/forum/view ... rut#p32955
http://www.teammightyboy.com/forum/view ... rut#p35569
But at the price's being asked thought it may be a good idea to post an alternative that allows reconditioning OR manufacture of custom engine/transmisson mounts (the method I intend showing is tried and proven - even on large truck engine mounts). The screw removal method you have posted is a good one
and somtimes I probably tend to use a sledge hammer to crack a wallnut 
. For small machine screws somtimes even a drop of instant glue on the stripped out top can be enough.
http://www.teammightyboy.com/forum/view ... rut#p32955
http://www.teammightyboy.com/forum/view ... rut#p35569
But at the price's being asked thought it may be a good idea to post an alternative that allows reconditioning OR manufacture of custom engine/transmisson mounts (the method I intend showing is tried and proven - even on large truck engine mounts). The screw removal method you have posted is a good one
and somtimes I probably tend to use a sledge hammer to crack a wallnut . For small machine screws somtimes even a drop of instant glue on the stripped out top can be enough.Get with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE
Well this is the final mould method I will show (many more could be used, mould making 2 pack silicon comes to mind) this method is not cheap and I am showing this because you can make replacement plastic parts and the material can be milled/turned/filed to shape limited pretty much by your ingenuity and imagination.
1st prepare the strut top I used a piece of PVC pipe and siliconed this to the strut top
For this mould I am using 2 part epoxy glue -Araldite (this is AW-134 I would recommend you try to use a cheaper Araldite this is very ex'y as it is approved for use in the manufacture of aircraft)
A release agent needs to be used (grease would work) and I will use silicon spray (I am using this as it will be required in a later process)
Scales will be required (cover with cling wrap or if the Miss's finds out what/how that lump got there you may end up with an extra lump or two of your own or missing a couple) measure part A into the container in the correct ratio
Add part B (correct ratio)
Mix together (use care mixing you do not want to fill the epoxy with air )
Pour into mold (after all epoxy is in mould a gentle mix is a good idea to try to get rid of all the air)
Now Araldite curing can be sped up by heating (this particular product will achieve an awesome hold on stuff if treated this way and used as a glue) I air dried this one (the product will produce heat which will in turn speed curing) and removed from the strut top after about 1 hour
The photo does not do this mould justice as it is nice and smooth on the internals (the black bits in the photo's are purely on the surface) and is a 1st class one the next best is the silicon and patch up was easy and is a good mould. The clay well its usable but pretty ordinary
1st prepare the strut top I used a piece of PVC pipe and siliconed this to the strut top
- prep strut top
- epoxy
- silicon spray
or missing a couple) measure part A into the container in the correct ratio
- Part A
- Part B
)
- Mix
- Pour into mould
- mold removed
Last edited by rf4burns on Sun Sep 18, 2011 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Get with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE
Paul,
You are correct in that having the mold ,it's not hard to produce these and I hope to have a couple of extra's shortly ;which I will re con and will probably offer these on an exchange basis at resonable $. HOWEVER I do not intend to supply huge amounts of these (will only supply these until the product I have is used up) as my time is limited, and I'm struggling to find the time as it is with family/work and life and when I am ready to start offering them will post in the sale section.Thanks for the feed back/intrest and hope to post the final couple of parts of the recon soon. RF4BURNS
You are correct in that having the mold ,it's not hard to produce these and I hope to have a couple of extra's shortly ;which I will re con and will probably offer these on an exchange basis at resonable $. HOWEVER I do not intend to supply huge amounts of these (will only supply these until the product I have is used up) as my time is limited, and I'm struggling to find the time as it is with family/work and life
and when I am ready to start offering them will post in the sale section.Thanks for the feed back/intrest and hope to post the final couple of parts of the recon soon. RF4BURNSGet with it ,Get over it ,Get on with it .....OR LEAVE