reverse light wiring

[havabeer]

key turned off and rev not selected:

light earth to + on battery = 12v
light + to battery + = 12v
ligth earth to batt - = 0v
light + to batt - = 0v

key turned on rev selected

light earth to + on battery = 12v
light + to battery + = 12v
ligth earth to batt - = 0v
light + to batt - = 0v

somethings definitely wrong. the wiring on this van is rather bodged together

thanks for all the help mr rf

[rf4burns]

ok bloke this is pretty much your reverse light circuit (IGN and fuse's not shown)

rev light basic

rev.gif (3.27 KiB) Viewed 852 times

measure from light + to battery - with key ON and REV selected (need 12v) if not 12v have a look at switch as in the diagram 12v needs to flow through switch (when REV selected switch is closed) to lamp than earth

[havabeer]

earthed out straight to the battery and got nothing. touched on the side of the globe and everywhere.

12v straight to the side and it lights up not that it helps me, but at least i know the globe works

[rf4burns]

ok if you got it to light by applying 12v to the eath side of the globe (man bet the wire got hot) the power was going threw filment of the light and being earthed by the switch (not what you want through , you want 12v to be supplied by the switch with the IGN on and reverse selected so to revise go back to the switch and check you have 12v leaving the switch and making it to the centre pin of the light!) once you have the switch doing this you'll be home and hosed till than measuring anything else is just adding confusion and will make you frustrated so have a Kit Kat take a breath count to ten and start at the switch,with IGN on and REV selected does power make it across the swicth ? (select unselect rev and check-remove bulb 1st) if so does it make it to centre pin of light?if yes is light bulb contacting centre pin? if yes is earth ok (from what you have already done I'd say maybe if not test with jumper)
I have to admit I am a little confused as earilier you said you were able to measure 12v on the centre pin of the light if this is so check you have not blown a fuse and retest.Thats about as much help as I can offer.

[havabeer]

thanks for your time and patience rf i'll owe you a beer one day when all this is done

i just measured the red and yellow wired contacts coming out of the switch


my results are:

without globe
REV SELECTED
Red - 12v
yel - 12v

non select
yel - 12v
red - 0v


with globe
rev selected
yel - 0v
red - 0v

no select
red - 0v
yel - 12v


shorting out some where perhaps?

[rf4burns]

when you have no globe in do you get 12v @ the centre pin on light? if so remove wires from switch and join together turn IGN on is light lit? if not remove the yellow wire and run a wire from your battery + and join that to the red wire (becareful no fuse here)if it lights replace the yellow wire with one from a source that is live only when the IGN is on and has a fuse in line (or you could end up with a fire)

[havabeer]

hallelujah the mans a genius

rf4burns your on the christmas card list. such a simple fix as well.

thanks for all the help though works like a charm, just wired it in on the same ignition wire as my electric fuel pump.

thanks again

[rf4burns]

Looks like the yellow wire cant supply enough current to the lamp (dont know where it comes from so cant help you there) anyway glad YOU were able to get it sorted good work and hope I was of at least a little help. Remeber there is no such thing as a stupid question except the one you never asked

[gadj]

Just viewed whole thread - the following may help others with gunked up lamp fittings etc.(as per first page).
Try using a little CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) in the globe socket. I have found it to be very useful in removing oxidation without removing extra metal as sandpaper etc. would. Oxidation increases resistance to current & it does not take much to reduce a bayonet fitting to useless - a quick clean usually restores them to operating.
Try to seal moisture out of the contact area (lanolin spray/grease often recommended) I find grease applied to the whole surface causes more trouble - just a little around the metal near the glass so there is metal to metal further down seems to work best.
If the assembly proves beyond restoration, go with a LED lamp & it will outlast the vehicle.