A tale of failed upgrades

[Brayden]

Just thought I'd share a cautionary tale as a good example of how the cost of a simple upgrade can blow out through bad luck and failed parts. I apologise in advance for the length of this post.

I decided last year that I wanted to upgrade the front brakes on the snot rocket, and started purchasing parts. Of course you all know that nothing is made to fit a MightyBoy so I knew that custom-made was the answer.

First purchase was a set of MK1 GTi front hubs. I scored these for $75 the pair, complete with calipers and discs. I then set about ordering new bearings ($110). When I stripped the hubs down, it turned out that one of the stubs was worn to buggery. This cost me $143 to have spray welded and machined.

$75 + $110 + $143 = $328

Next was a set of slotted rotors. The cheapest option here was DBA for $444 a pair. Fortunately I picked up a set of barely used RDA rotors for $120. Score! Equally lucky was finding a pair of fully rebuilt calipers for $150.

$328 + $120 + $150 = $608

During this process I came across a set of wheels that I just had to have. Problem was that the stud pattern was 4x100 - but I figured while I was building the hubs I'd just drill them (and the discs) to the new stud pattern. Wanting to avoid having wobbly wheels at high speed, I decided not to redrill them myself and sent them to a machinist. $180 later they were returned, plus $40 for new wheel studs.

$608 + $180 + 40 = $828

So at this point I had a set of essentially brand new hubs and brake calipers, but I still needed MK1 suspension to bolt them onto. I found some second-hand MK1 coilovers going for $250 and I snapped them up. Problem was that when they arrived it turned oout that the springs were too stiff, and when I pulled them apart one of the Koni inserts was worn out. The quoted cost for a set of new custom profile springs was $360 and the rebuild of the Konis about $350.

$828 + 250 + 360 + 350 = $1788

To finish off the job and get the brakes working I'm opting for a pair of stainless ADR approved lines at $150. I'm also looking at pillow ball upper mounts at about $250.

$1788 + 150 + 250 = $2188.

Finally there's the small issue of the MB tie rod ends not matching the Swift hub properly. To solve that I'm upgrading to sealed rose joints at $60 a pair.

$2188 + $60 = $2248.

Now I'm not all the way through this process yet, so I can't even say whether the cost/effort was worth it - but I suspect the improved braking performance and adjustable height suspension will make me feel better about this saga!

I've been taking photos throughout the process so I can put together an article for the workshop section.

[Tez]

Brayden.
I know your brakes came under scruitiny when you did the upgrade to turbo, and that your engineer (obviously) passed them...

Man... for that sort of money, you'd want these ones to flip the car over on it's roof! - (well not really, coz that might scratch your spectacular paintwork...)

Here's hoping they're everything you want from them!.

Cheers

[Brayden]

The fact I'm dealing with 20y/o Swift hubs/brakes means there's substantial costs involved in rebuilding, but to be fair a large chunk of the cost is tied up in the coilovers. The upgrade would have been a lot cheaper with standard Swift struts and King Springs.

My advice to others would be that if you're on a budget look at Daewoo Matiz parts. Being newer you won't have to spend much (if anything) replacing bearings, rotors and other parts.

[Billie]

Hey Brayden, i'll make you feel better, i'v spent close to 3 grand on brakes front and rear. That inculudes all new bushes/bearings/pads and so on.

[Matty]

Oh an update yay! Pics??

Just one sneaky one.....

[Brayden]

Hey Brayden, i'll make you feel better, i'v spent close to 3 grand on brakes front and rear. That inculudes all new bushes/bearings/pads and so on.

I've got most of the parts ready for the rear disc conversion, so that will happen next. I shudder when I add the cost of the rear upgrade and new wheels to the tally.

Pics coming soon, I want it all together before that happens - but the new wheels look P.I.M.P.

[Billie]

Easiest way is use mb drum, cut sides off, bolt disc on, then adaptors for caliper mounts and spacer behind.

I got a pic, i'll upload tomorrow.

[Brayden]

Yeah that's pretty much what I've done. I've spaced the caliper out from the plate rather than spacing the plate from the axle.

[Matty]

I would love rear disks and a better set up front end. Can't wait for the write up

[Billie]

Are you using swift gti ones? I'v got front and rear mk3 discs and calipers with mk3 brake booster and master. One brake line to the back with wilwood prop valve and straight lines to the front. I still need to save for custom drive shafts then shes on the road.

[Brayden]

Yep I'm using Swift GTi parts, but MK1 front hubs so I can keep the standard driveshafts. Standard MB master cylinder and no booster either. I prefer the direct pedal feel, but will upgrade the M/C if the standard one can't handle the job.

On the rear I'm machining the discs smaller to reduce the braking effectiveness and control the bias, keeping the MB proportion valves in situ. (Adjustable valves are illegal for street use)

In all honesty the rear discs are only a cosmetic change and that's why I'm in no hurry to do that part of the upgrade. They only provide about 25% of the braking force and drums do the job with ease.

[Billie]

Mate did you think of the residual pressure valve. Pedal effort will be to much without booster. My main reason is cosmetics and ease of changeing pads and handbrake adjustment. Adjustable ones are, have adr aproval. Allready talked to engineer about everything before i did anything.

[Brayden]

I know guys who race 800kg Swifts and they disconnect/remove the booster for better pedal feel. I'm not really concerned with the pedal effort required on a 550kg vehicle. If needed I do have an Alto Works booster sitting here.

Interesting note on the bias controller. They might be legal in QLD but my engineer said that adjustable controllers are illegal in NSW/ACT. Fixed valves are acceptable though. Given what you've been told I'll ask him again though.

[Billie]

As long as they cant be reached while driving they are legal. Mines mounted outside the cabin.

Its raining atm. I'll take pics when it dries up. Might help with sorting yours out.

Best way for the handbrake cable is to cut the bracket out of a swift and weld it in the mightyboy.

[Brayden]

Cheers mate, I appreciate the help.