arklan f8c engine swap

[Brayden]

It is the breather pipe that runs from the petrol tank through to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. If you've ripped out the canister you can install a check valve and plumb it into the intake.

[arklan]

ok long time without posting here.
as for that pipe i got a t piece and plugged in the canister hose and the original mb return to the canister.

i got some pieces machined to flip the tie rods and that all went together sweet and did cut down on the bump steer but its still not as good as it was.

now i think i may have a blown head gasket.
the whole time since i got the matiz it had been using a little bit of water (a litre a month) no idea where its leaking from but the oil never was milkshake colour and there was never any funny stuff in the oil cap.
today took it for a drive and it went almost to the top of the temp guage after driving only 7km.
had a look and theres not much water in the reservoir, so i filled it right up and went to see my dad.
now on the way back it got right up to the H before i even got home so about 5km
popped the bonnet and its bone dry.
im waiting for it to cool down before i start checking for leaks but it was whistling like a bird when i pulled over to see why it was so hot.
i asked a guy for some water and he gave me a 2 litre coke bottle full so i could get home. 2km and its used half of that water.
just checked the oil then and its still not milkshake colour and there r no pools of water under the car

i really dont think the boy appreciated what i did to it, it had been nothing to report for a couple months and now this. i think the spirit of the boy is punishing me

[arklan]

bits for flipping the tie rods 100$

[KEVIN]

I used to work for a Daewoo dealership ( when they existed ) from memory fairly common cooling system problems were head gasket, plastic inlet manifold & "O" rings & plastic thermostat housing.

[Tez]

If the head gasket has gone between a cylinder and the water jacket, then it might be sucking water into the cylinder and blowing it out the exhaust pipe. You might not see any puddles or leaks.

Only if there was a breach between a water gallery and an oil gallery would you see the milkshake stuff...

[Billie]

Why not pull over before it gets to H? I also wonder why people come into my work with there cars on H and say whats wrong. Usually just water pump or radiator/hose leaking, then by driving on H turns into blown/warped head. I dont know how they do it. I pull over if my temp gauge creeps past halfway in any of my cars.

[arklan]

i had less than a km to get home and mostly down hill i thought i could make it but once it got to the top of the line i knew i wouldnt make it.

the problem was a lose heater hose, i recently had to jam the brakes so im guessing thats where it couldv happened.
still idles a bit fast

edit:
problem with the fast idling is with the "genuine" sard fuel pressure regulator. as time has gone on iv had to wind the pressure down to maintain the same idling speed so i dont know how much longer it will last. still its driveable now and with a good amount of thread tape the vacuum leak it had after jamming the brakes has almost gone away.
ill drive it until it dies and then do something else
for now this project is finished

[arklan]

i got a fuel pressure reg from billet and it runs sweet now but the reason im posting here now is because i have an issue with brakes.
i noticed last week that when i corner to the left hard like going around a roundabout the wrong way (dont ask) that the brake light comes on.
and as time has gone on iv needed to corner less and less hard to make the brake light come on.
after a trip to the shops yesterday now the brake light is on all the time.
my work is 6.6km away and that is the only place i drive it to other than the shops which is 1km away.
iv also noticed that if im sitting with my foot on the brake at the lights the pedal will very slowly go down like theres a brake fluid leak.
but iv checked the reservoir and it doesnt look like any is missing. maybe its using up a very slight amount?

any ideas guys?

[gadj]

Check the wheel cylinders for leaks. If all good, check the master cylinder. Master does not necessarily have to leak externally for the said symptoms to exist, could be as simple as pitting in the bore &/or worn buckets/seals. Wheel cyls should still be avail. as a new item at the local parts shop (aftermarket)but the master is more likely a matter of refurbishing what you have or maybe on an exchange basis. Stainless sleeve rebuilds usually work out the best & last longest but failures are not unknown.

[arklan]

that sounds like an easy thing to fix, the master cyl was done before christmas so it has to be a slave

thanks a lot gadj

[Brayden]

The only thing that triggers a brake light warning on an MB is low fluid (or a dodgy sensor). So all you need to do is find the cause, most likely a leak or air in the system.

I've also seen similar symptoms caused by a rotor/caliper not being secured properly. The subsequent 'brake float' causes issues, most noticeable on corrugated roads.

[arklan]

just an update to say the boy now has a surge tank behind the fuel tank under the tray, its a 2lt unit.
using an external efi pump to go from the surge tank to the engine and a diaphragm pump to go between fuel tank and surge tank, has a fuel filter for each pump. had a bit of messing around with fuel pumps and this has solved all problems.
also have a 3core mini radiator now, its the same height, about an inch less width but its almost 3 inches thick. havent put a fan on it as yet (havent got around to it) so far no problems with the 6 minute commute to work.
anyone thinking of upgrading their radiator, highly recommend a mini radiator they fit perfect, same hose size, just the bottom hose is closer to the battery so you may need to add an extension to your bottom hose

[Billie]

We have been using the mini radiator for a fair few years now. Works a treat.