Super Carry Project.. Step 1: Lowering!

[Brayden]

Sorry to hi-jack, but I have to ask you Jezzza, how did you go with the Cordia? You know that the turbo model was one of the most dangerous cars don't you? The huge power gives torque steer and pulls you dangerously to the left and fighting that drivers would pull hard to the right and lift their right foot and the Cordia would then rapidly change direction to the right, often killing the occupants. That is why they are rare and cheap. I had a worked 1600 non turbo. It went extremely well without the turbo danger.

FYI: Jezza was talking about the throttle body (TB) from a Cordia, not the whole car.

[Karu]

Cool! Just what I require. I have a question though. My coil has 3 pins, does anyone know if it will make a difference using just the two?

[jezzza]

Thanks Brayden,
Correct I am only using the TB

From my understanding of how a coil works, it fires each plug in cylinder.
So if you have a 3 cyclinder, you should have 3 contact points
If you only use 2, then you really only got 2 cylinders firing lol

Still working on the TB.. im not sure if its the right one

Thanks for the magnetic thingoo.. still no idea how they work!!

[Karu]

Mine is a 4 cyl and the coil has a positive, a negative and another in the middle of both. That is why the coils are expensive and becoming harder to acquire.

[Brayden]

The post marked "B" is for the ballast resistor. If you install a two-post coil without a resistor it will burn the points out more rapidly.

[upg]

Thanks Brayden,
Correct I am only using the TB

From my understanding of how a coil works, it fires each plug in cylinder.
So if you have a 3 cyclinder, you should have 3 contact points
If you only use 2, then you really only got 2 cylinders firing lol

Still working on the TB.. im not sure if its the right one

Thanks for the magnetic thingoo.. still no idea how they work!!

incorrect, on the f10a carry it has 1 coil and 4 cylinders.

coil produces a high voltage output to ignite the fuel injected by the carb

the middle connection is where you attach the coil lead to the distributor (that is the high voltage output)

the neg and pos are there to power the coil (that is the input). the coil converts this input to a output (essentially its a transformer)

the coil powers all spark plugs

some cars run individual coils which either sit directly on the spark plug or sometime remotely mounted to avoid heat/vibration. eg most turbo japanese engine ca18 sr20 rb20 rb25 rb26 3sgte 1jz 2jz all had individual coilpacks

now, regarding the electronic ignition conversion.
the f10a has a dizzy and point
as per http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system4.htm

the electrical circuit is closed when the rotor contacts the points. mechanical connection (resulting in wear and eventually poor contact)

the electronic ignition eliminates the wear by using a magnet to close the circuit

[upg]

Mine is a 4 cyl and the coil has a positive, a negative and another in the middle of both. That is why the coils are expensive and becoming harder to acquire.

i do not believe coils are hard to find
they are quite universal and readily available eg high popular bosch gt40

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GT40R-BOSCH- ... 1c22924858

[upg]

jezza

so how did you decide to lower your car?

also any idea on the width/offset of the wheels? and the tyre size?

will be good reference for others on here

thanks

[Karu]

My bad! I thought TB was a Cordia model. The Suzuki shop in North Heidelberg told me they are rare and to buy a spare at $60 which I did. The coil on ebay is a normal 2 pin coil. So, if the third pin is to go to the carby will it still work if I bought on of the electronic modules with a 2 pin coil?

[jezzza]

Ye no idea with this coil/carby stuff..
Im a little slow and TBH havent bothered to learn yet.. too busy painting my house! Imn just about done
But thanks for the info upg.. its helping me get around the bend
My little guy is getting hot (around half gauge)so ive stopped driving

Ahh wheels and offsets.. now you are talking my language lol
Wheels are 13x5.5 +38, as far best as I can measure
I think a +35 should clear, BUT +30 would be best
No idea on how to lower yet, but when I get time ill measure the diameter of coil and see if any are a close fit

Note to self: learn about coils and points

On another note, my RX7 is close to being finished .. so van may be pushed further down the line haha

[Brayden]

My little guy is getting hot (around half gauge)so ive stopped driving

That's normal for Summer, even 3/4 towards hot can happen if you're working it hard.

[upg]

My bad! I thought TB was a Cordia model. The Suzuki shop in North Heidelberg told me they are rare and to buy a spare at $60 which I did. The coil on ebay is a normal 2 pin coil. So, if the third pin is to go to the carby will it still work if I bought on of the electronic modules with a 2 pin coil?

show me this mystical 3 pin coil you speak of?

what goes to the carby?

my coil has 3 connections
1 positive
2 negative
3 output to the dizzy

[Tez]

UPG...

I think I've seen what Karu is on about - IIRC, the specific coil has three low-tension posts (most coils have two - +ve & -ve) but I think there were a few that have a centre tap on the low-tension winding to feed the ballast resistor.
I do believe they are far and few between (i.e. they are rare and possibly exxy), so in your terms, they in fact have 4 terminals... the High-tension output (for the lead to the dissy) and three posts, +ve, -ve, & "tap".
Now the specific low-tension circuit details will determine if they can be used, but in the "traditional" power in-power out configuration, ignoring the centre tap...
I don't know if they work any better than the more typical configuration or not.

[upg]

hi,

if you do not use the full load capacity you could go my way:

front:
cut away three windings of the coil spring on each side
cut the rubber bumpstop in half and remove the cut piece

rear:
cut rubber bumpstops down
add 2" ford escort mk1 lowering blocks
remove one spring leaf and the overload spring leaf

13" wheels do not touch the arches when springs are compressed
ride is still comfortable but a lot more like a gocart

a rear anti sway bar would be nice and would add more stiffness to the rear.
anyone knows if someone offers such a kit?



cheers, phil

hi phil

please confirm if these are the correct lowering blocks?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LOWERING-BLO ... 19c69d8057

did you need to cut down the locating pin for them to fit?

thanks

ian

[jezzza]

Hey guys
So i fitted tyres and got all 4 wheels on now
I used 6mm spacers

This is a list of what fits (clearing suspension ~3mm):
Fronts (width, offset)
4.5" +40 (set inside gaurd)
5.0" +35 (perfect fitment IMO)
5.5" +30 (stick out gaurds ~10mm)
6.0" +25 (would stick out way too much)

Ill check clearanceon leaf springs and get a more accurate list
Rears (width, offset)
4.5" +48 (probably around stock fitment)
5.0" +43 (sit inside gaurd)
5.5" +38 (what I run, clears by heaps and sits in gaurds. I bought a 10mm slip on, but need longer wheel studs)
6.0" +33 (Slightly in gaurds)
6.5" +27 (Flush!)

So after I chuck my spacers on, my wheels will be:
Fronts: 13x5.5 +30 (slightly outside gaurds)
Rears: 13x5.5 +28 (Slightly in gaurds)