Nano-technology

Chat about anything and everything.
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RetroHatch
Posts: 76
Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 8:06 pm
Location: Cessnock, NSW

To add to the sucking noise- Connect a Boost gauge to a vacuum line and then you'll have visual too :lol: :lol: :thumbup1:

Being a mechanic, its amazing the number of cars I've actually seen this done too.....
Tailgating my Hatch doesnt increase the horsepower of the F5A
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Billie
Posts: 2692
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:18 pm
Location: Brisbane

I havnt seen any come in with that yet. I installed the pod because it was 20 and standard air filter was 50. Cost effective and its washable.
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RetroHatch
Posts: 76
Joined: Fri May 04, 2012 8:06 pm
Location: Cessnock, NSW

Prob taking this Post Feed away from its actual topic....

But I have seen (Partial List):
Boost gauge on vacuum line
Slabs of concrete in the boot of a falcon to give a nose "raised" profile
Section of carpet sitting on top of a Matiz engine because customer complained engine was to noisey (carpet showed signs of where it had caught fire at some point :-o )
Grandma come in with "her" Ford Typhoon with the flywheel and clutch assembley missing from gearbox, but gearbox still connected to engine(bottom half of bell housing missing). "I'm not sure what happened, I was driving along and I heard a big bang..... Will this be covered under warranty?" she says. Credit for trying, but Grandson wore the bill. He prob should of cleaned the melted rubber out of the gaurds before they towed it in.
Ford Laser lowered with heavy duty cable/zip ties wrapped around coil springs.
Front brakes worn so much on a Nissan Pathfinder that there were no pads left, both front caliper pistons popped out of caliper and grinding on rotor. LHF rotor had ground down to venting fins, causing rotor to crack right round inside diametre causing hub to spin and "brake area" of rotor to remain stationary, if that makes sense. Customer complaint: my brakes are alittle noisey............. :crazy:
The list goes on, moral of the story, none really, these people make my day amusing :lol:
Tailgating my Hatch doesnt increase the horsepower of the F5A
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Billie
Posts: 2692
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:18 pm
Location: Brisbane

Lol i'v had the piston one before, except it fell out when i was bringing it in the work shop. It is quite amusing how people modify there cars.
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8
Posts: 185
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:14 pm
Location: Melbourne

best oil is the one you make yourself, look up a monograde 30 and 40 combine the 2 together and you get the correct oil for almost all australian moderate conditions. eg. 30w40
All other oils below 25w are useless in our moderate to hot climates yet we have to swallow 15w40, 10w40 and 5w40 as the only oils for modern cars when in fact we rarely see below -0 degrees.
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Brayden
Posts: 9101
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 3:09 am
Location: Canberra ACT
Contact:

Speak for yourself. Canberra winter mornings are often sub-zero. ;)
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
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Tez
Posts: 1176
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:38 pm
Location: Croydon, Vic

Hey 8.
I think your argument is flawwed. In all cases you mentioned, the resultant viscosity WHEN HOT is 40.
the number prior to the 'w' is the viscosity the oil depicts WHEN COLD - the smaller the number, the runnier the fluid. So 5w40, 10w40, 15w40 and even your home concocted 30w40 all work with a hot viscosity of 40. The only difference between them all is that compared to the 5w40, your '30w40' would be like trying to pump axle grease around the engine whilst it was cold... per below, snipped from the following page:
An example of a multi grade oil designation is 10W-40. The 10W (W = winter) indicates how the oil would behave when cold, while the 40 is how it acts when hot.
Refer to this RACQ webpage I read that describes SAE ratings and what they mean...
http://www.racq.com.au/motoring/cars/ca ... signations
Tez
So the adventure continues...
Karu
Posts: 325
Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 1:31 am
Location: Melbourne

And bringing it back to its original topic (not that I cared if that it went off topic because I believe threads are for conversation.
30W/40 could be used with Nanotechnology. Imagine you have a 30cm x 30cm diamond plate, now cover that with diamond ball bearings and put another 30x30cm diamond plate and another layer of diamond ball bearings until you have 40 plates. Now shrink the whole scene down to one millionth of an inch and you have an extremely slippery super hard coating.
8
Posts: 185
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:14 pm
Location: Melbourne

Image

monograde sae 30 works from 0-40 celsius better when at 100 degrees celsius and not like grease at all when cold as a matter of fact on a very cold winter morning just on zero degrees it flowed very well, not to mention it stays on the bearing surfaces better at the rated cold and working temperatures rated. I use Castrol Agri MP 20w-40 atm on all my engines through winter and go to the 30w40 summer and one of the liteaces has clocked over 650k while the Taxi has clocked over 700k and both under keyhole camera show good hone marks.
The g16b carry sounds better at idle and during extended freeway use.

Camberra is not part of temperate Oz its a black hole connected to Antartica :D

I think instead of the Nanotech Id prefer an Accusump so you have good pressure at start up where the most damage occurs.
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