Engine starts on one piston then slowly the others fire

Suzuki hatchback tech questions and answers.
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lunacy20bfd
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Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 5:35 pm

My 1987 AWD alto works F5A starts on one piston then after a min or two the second one will fire then the third one. :x

But once it is going it is all good, need this for work so i want to get it fix.

Not sure if I should just replace the spark plugs or if the dissy cap and point needs to be replaced?

If so what are the part numbers?

Dont want to spend money on things that wont fix it lol so i thought i better ask here first :)
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gadj
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I'd be doing a compression test before going through the electricals. My F8B had similar symptoms not long before it emitted a 'death cloud' on deceleration from highway speed...turned out all the rings had been shattered & a piece had been broken off & embedded in the crown of one piston. I could still drive it but that didn't last long.
So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
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Brayden
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Is there any smoke from the exhaust associated with the non-firing cylinders?
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
lunacy20bfd
Posts: 58
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 5:35 pm

It doesn't blow smoke and runs sweet once warm, pulls hard on boost and loves to rev. power hasn't changed
(I know when it is cold and you try to rev it quickly you can hear the dizzy making it miss a beat but I think that's just inherent in the design?)

It only happens when it is cold usually.
It just smells of non burnt fuel out the ex sometimes depending how long it takes for the others to start.

Before it was only one piston that took a tad bit of time to start when cold. Then that one took longer then the second one started doing it. and it starts in that order but in reverse LOL ever since the second piston started to do it.

I am thinking oil in the dizzy and/or new plugs, the leads are original red leads also with cracking in the silicon shielding.

I have had it start cold with no problem but that is rare intermediate.
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gadj
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Do a thorough service on the ignition system & see what happens. There is nothing in there that does not wear out. At least clean & set the points, replace rotor & cap & give her a fresh set of leads & plugs too if they have done 12 months - BP5ES from memory but a simple change to BP5EY will give a split electrode allowing a fatter spark otherwise it is the same plug.
I'd still be doing a wet/dry compression test to check if there is a compression leak via rings or valves.
Deposits on the plugs will tell something too even though they will not show a straw colour that used to be considered ideal - that was due to lead in the fuel...now history.
So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
lunacy20bfd
Posts: 58
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2011 5:35 pm

I got Iridiums in there not sure what model that boostworx put in there when they dyno tuned it @ 15psi a year or so ago, ive turn down the boost to 12-13psi 4months ago while it was summer hot days.

What if I go the BPR5EIX I can get them at supercheap for 17.60 each. I should check what model boostworx put in there also lol.

I did clean the ones that were in there two months ago when i did a oil change(flush,new oil,filter,superlube) and the plugs were heaps guncky dirty so I scraped them clean and it did fix it only for a little while.

- What spark gap should I set it?

- What are the part numbers to get bits for the Dizzy?
ssc87
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Copper plugs will be fine, big hp cars run them no problems.
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gadj
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Iridium plugs last longer - unless you have some sort of really high output ignition, the iridiums you have should go for years & just need an occasional clean up. They were designed for the more modern engines with insane ignition output figures that melt/burn ordinary plugs out fairly quickly & some like the V6 Magna where one bank is really hard to change out.
It seems you might have a valve guide seal or oil ring issue allowing oil into the combustion chamber mainly on the 2 cyls that don't immediately fire. Some mechanics just put a hotter plug in so the oil is more likely to burn on the power stroke. I'd prefer to find why the oil is getting in as a better solution.
So many delays to getting my MB back in order with 993cc & 5 speed transaxle... neighbor issue gone, donor shell up on rotisserie, new sheds on the way.... another project also..
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