Removing hub

MightyBoy tech questions and answers.
Post Reply
User avatar
holk
Posts: 555
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:30 pm

I have tried today to replace my warped rotors, but I didn't manage to remove the hubs. What am I doing wrong?
This is what I have done.

Removed the wheel
Removed the caliper
Loosen the rotor bolts
Removed the split pin
Removed the spindle
Tried in any way to remove the hub (hammer, extractor, ....) no fu### way.

Is there any bolt on the inside holding the hub? (didn't think of checking).

Any help appreciated.
[img]http://www.tamon.org/gallery/d/11796-1/holk3-1.jpg[/img]
User avatar
Brayden
Posts: 9101
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 3:09 am
Location: Canberra ACT
Contact:

Not sure how I missed your post earlier, but I assume when you say you're trying to remove the hub that you're trying to pop out the driveshaft? Did you have any luck?
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
mowog
Posts: 970
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 2:22 am

generally I remove the castellated nut, reverse it and screw it back on just so the face of it is just above the axle. this way when you hammer it the axle is protected, if you wreck the nut doesn't matter a lot cheaper and easier to buy a new nut than an axle.
best if you have a copper sledgehammer. if not put a piece of hardwood over the end of the nut and belt it hard should only take 2 or 3 hits.
User avatar
holk
Posts: 555
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:30 pm

No, I haven't had the chance to trying again.
Brayden wrote:Not sure how I missed your post earlier, but I assume when you say you're trying to remove the hub that you're trying to pop out the driveshaft? Did you have any luck?
I am trying to replace the warped rotors and they seem to be stuck behind the hubs (which I can't pull).
mowog wrote:generally I remove the castellated nut, reverse it and screw it back on just so the face of it is just above the axle. this way when you hammer it the axle is protected, if you wreck the nut doesn't matter a lot cheaper and easier to buy a new nut than an axle.
best if you have a copper sledgehammer. if not put a piece of hardwood over the end of the nut and belt it hard should only take 2 or 3 hits.
I can't hammer the driveshaft as it is connected to the box on the other side. When I have removed the shaft in the past, from the inside (when the box was out), it was pretty straight forward, but from the wheel side, I can't manage to remove the rotors.

Any suggestion??
[img]http://www.tamon.org/gallery/d/11796-1/holk3-1.jpg[/img]
User avatar
jason
Posts: 181
Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2004 11:04 pm
Location: Sale, VIC

you could pop the drive shaft from the box and then have a go at getting the other end out. from therei am not sure about how much more you would need to do. you might need to press the rest apart as it looks like the bearing holds the hub together.
mowog
Posts: 970
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 2:22 am

thats one reason you put the nut back on, it stops the axle going back into the box, it only needs to move a few mm, it will then drop straight off, or at least allow you to swivel the hub off after removing the nut.
from memory though I do think the hub is a pressed fit on the bearing.
User avatar
Brayden
Posts: 9101
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 3:09 am
Location: Canberra ACT
Contact:

The rotor (and rotor cap) are removed by using a slide hammer bolted to the wheel studs, once you've removed the castle nut from the driveshaft.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
User avatar
holk
Posts: 555
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:30 pm

Thanks Brayden,
I'll try again
[img]http://www.tamon.org/gallery/d/11796-1/holk3-1.jpg[/img]
Post Reply