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Not meaning to hijack your post, but how much lower does the hatch leaf springs sit?
Hatch Spring Height/Fitment
Has anyone done the conversion?
I'm a little sceptical off the [presumably stiffer - given the greater load rating] Hatch springs giving greater stability than the standard MightyBoy ones, which tend to be too stiff and bounce around on rough roads as it is...
I'm a little sceptical off the [presumably stiffer - given the greater load rating] Hatch springs giving greater stability than the standard MightyBoy ones, which tend to be too stiff and bounce around on rough roads as it is...
[url=http://www.tamon.org/?page=owners&id=10][img]http://www.tamon.org/forum/images/ute_specs.gif[/img][/url]
I really would like to know too.
The parabolic springs are about right for me. I wouldnt want a lot softer, but equally, harder springs might start the rear skipping on rough roads. - Especially when a rear sway bar is fitted.
I'd happily keep the parabolic springs, but I am pretty keen to lower the rear another 20mm or so on top of the 2 inch lowering blocks. I have got to say that I am a little dissapointed in how low (or not low to be precise) my boy is with the king springs & lowering blocks.
The parabolic springs are about right for me. I wouldnt want a lot softer, but equally, harder springs might start the rear skipping on rough roads. - Especially when a rear sway bar is fitted.
I'd happily keep the parabolic springs, but I am pretty keen to lower the rear another 20mm or so on top of the 2 inch lowering blocks. I have got to say that I am a little dissapointed in how low (or not low to be precise) my boy is with the king springs & lowering blocks.
By my measurements the Hatch springs make the unloaded axle sit at 2cm higher than the MB spring. (Which lowers the body by 2cm)
Technically the extra springs should stiffen up the rear end and make the ride firmer (read: rougher), however they would do little to improve the handling dynamics.
Dunno, I might as well test it out and see.
-edit-
Fritz, just bear in mind that going any lower on the suspension will require you to modify or cut out the bump stops. At 40mm lower I had to shave the rubber stops and I've still only got ~40mm of clearance.
Technically the extra springs should stiffen up the rear end and make the ride firmer (read: rougher), however they would do little to improve the handling dynamics.
Dunno, I might as well test it out and see.
-edit-
Fritz, just bear in mind that going any lower on the suspension will require you to modify or cut out the bump stops. At 40mm lower I had to shave the rubber stops and I've still only got ~40mm of clearance.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Really? I was pretty impressed with the new look and handling of Brayden's ute after the same conversion... I don't know that I'd want to go much lower for fear of having to wog-crawl over every little indentation in the road in my travels.
I've had past experiences where the corrugations and bumps in the road (namely on the SuziTech Cruise) have been enough to cause the rear end to come unstuck, even at speeds well below 60km/h. There's no way I'd want the back end any stiffer... (not including a swaybar to guard against bodyroll, of course)
I've had past experiences where the corrugations and bumps in the road (namely on the SuziTech Cruise) have been enough to cause the rear end to come unstuck, even at speeds well below 60km/h. There's no way I'd want the back end any stiffer... (not including a swaybar to guard against bodyroll, of course)
[url=http://www.tamon.org/?page=owners&id=10][img]http://www.tamon.org/forum/images/ute_specs.gif[/img][/url]
Good point brayden. Hadn't really thought about the bump stop. Grrrr.... - Maybe 10mm more wont hurt it too much?... Although it seem like a bit of stuffing around just for 10mm
As it is, I haven't actually bottomed out on anything yet - & that includes going over curbs etc at medium pace.
I just cant help but be annoyed by the distance between the rear wheels & the gaurds. Ideally I'd like it to be level or just tucked under
http://members.iinet.net.au/~fritzgru/i ... GP3023.JPG
http://members.iinet.net.au/~fritzgru/i ... GP3024.JPG
Brayden - I thought you had 50mm lowering blocks?
As it is, I haven't actually bottomed out on anything yet - & that includes going over curbs etc at medium pace.
I just cant help but be annoyed by the distance between the rear wheels & the gaurds. Ideally I'd like it to be level or just tucked under
http://members.iinet.net.au/~fritzgru/i ... GP3023.JPG
http://members.iinet.net.au/~fritzgru/i ... GP3024.JPG
Brayden - I thought you had 50mm lowering blocks?
I refuse to believe that *multiple-leaf Hatch springs are not stiffer and thus bouncier than the *parabolic-leaf standard MightyBoy springs.hatchman wrote:stiffer? i wouldnt say so... nicer drive... yes, more control on the rear of the car, not skipping when switching lanes... yes
*edited: Sorry guys, my mistake. What was I thinking?
Last edited by Josh on Fri Apr 30, 2004 1:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
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MB's are parabolic. Single leaf of varying thickness.
I have been informed that the idea behind them is much the same as progressive rate springs. Soft to start with, & they then tighten up as they deflect more (get loaded).
I think eDave (?) has a 3 leaf setup (not hatch), so he may well be able to enlighten us on this issue?
I have been informed that the idea behind them is much the same as progressive rate springs. Soft to start with, & they then tighten up as they deflect more (get loaded).
I think eDave (?) has a 3 leaf setup (not hatch), so he may well be able to enlighten us on this issue?
Sorry, yes Fritz, my lowering blocks are in fact 2" (50mm). The top of the tyre 165/65/13 sits even with the guard, and just inside once there is a driver or passenger in the cabin.
As for Hatch springs making the performance of the rear suspension any better, I really doubt it. The extra springs in the Hatch are merely designed to accomodate the higher payload capacity - cornering dynamics would change very little.
Perhaps in an stock MB with clapped out shocks you would notice an increase in handling performance, but not if you've got new shocks and the stock MB springs are working correctly.
But, in the interests of being open minded, I'm going to try it out myself and tell you how it goes.
Oh, and Dave has a custom set of Lovells rear springs that are much more advanced that the stock ones, they are a coupled leaf setup which essentially looks much the same as a single leaf, but works much better.
As for Hatch springs making the performance of the rear suspension any better, I really doubt it. The extra springs in the Hatch are merely designed to accomodate the higher payload capacity - cornering dynamics would change very little.
Perhaps in an stock MB with clapped out shocks you would notice an increase in handling performance, but not if you've got new shocks and the stock MB springs are working correctly.
But, in the interests of being open minded, I'm going to try it out myself and tell you how it goes.
Oh, and Dave has a custom set of Lovells rear springs that are much more advanced that the stock ones, they are a coupled leaf setup which essentially looks much the same as a single leaf, but works much better.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Hmmm... - I'm pretty dard about that. I've got 155/65-13's (5mm smaller radius than the 165's) and mine I reckon it sits about 20mm clear of the rear gaurd. - I cant figure out why mine would be riding that much higher than brayden's? The shocks I have seem to be hevier duty than norm & have a decent amount of natural rebound, but I wouldn't have thought that'd make that much difference 
Surely the springs themselves aren't set higher or are less fatigued?
Oh, and I just had to laugh at the performance f5a carb Pete...
Surely the springs themselves aren't set higher or are less fatigued?
Oh, and I just had to laugh at the performance f5a carb Pete...
Glad someone said it before I did... 
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