Team MightyBoy

So I seem to remember reading somewhere that the G10A Swifts changed around '89, which made the install into a MB more difficult, but I can't find it again.

Am I making this up?
If they're different, what's the difference?

Pre '89 G10A have a tin rocker cover, slightly different head and smaller gearbox frame. Post '89 have an alloy rocker cover and the gearbox frame is different, which causes headaches with firewall clearance.

Tech specs are the same across all configurations (same displacement, carby, gearbox ratios, etc).

Ceej is currently in the process of installing a late model G10A using a set of mounts that I made for him, so he's probably got the most current intel.

Legend.

You don't happen to have a template for said mounts or a description thereof? Or even just any general advice?

The mounts I made for Ceej were essentially templates that he is going to use to make his own mounts. From memory he was talking about getting a machinist to fab them, so I'll find out if he's making multiple sets.

Best advice is to start with the subframe from an automatic MB. It gives better clearance for the gearbox.

Cheers. Keep us posted I guess.

Sorry for the absence and lack of reply! I have been super busy lately! And by lately I mean this year.

As Brayden said I am currently using the templates and modding them as I go so I can come up with a bit of a bolt-in solution. It's just a long term project though as I don't really have the space to work in my current living arrangements. That said I am getting through it. I have spoken to a couple of mates, one an engineer and the other a macinist/fabricator and it looks like there will be a possibility of me getting a few of them turned out once I get it all together. Stay tuned.

The mounts themselves are fairly simple. I am using the later model engine and the subframe I am using is from an auto. The subframe itself needs to have a couple of holes drilled for the engine mounts and it also needs a small section removed and modified to clear a bolt on the back of the box. Otherwise there is just enough room.

Driveshaft wise I took a set of swift inner CV and MightyBoy outer CV to a driveshaft mob and got them to attach them to a MightyBoy drive shaft. I still haven't had a chance to check if that is all I need to do in that regard. Hopefully they will be just about right!

The gearbox linkage is different to the MB and will require some modification. It doesn't look too tricky though. (Famous last words!)

Other things that have come up with clearance issues are the sump on the drivers side of the subframe and the oil filter on the front of the subframe. I think I have sorted these out with some slight adjustments but not sure if I took photos of the latest position.

Here are some pictures that show the clearance and a few other bits and pieces. Hope they help!

Ill put in an order for the conversion mounts if You can get a few of them fabbed up.
What are U doing about the top mount?
Are You getting a blue plate/engineering cert to make it legal? If so are the std brakes /suspension exc.. Ok as they are?
That sump looks very Very! Close to the sub frame. Would it not be better to move it a half inch or so to the Passenger side?
Or is that not as close as it looks?

I can see what I'm in for now, my g10a is a aluminium top. Want to super charge it in the end but all looks close as in the engine bay

Alight, almost completed, just getting my butt kicked by one last problem.

The starter on a G10 should have three wires going to it, correct? Main power cable from the battery, a wire from the starter switch, and a third leading back to the igniter/distributor. That's what I had on the F5A in the originally, and what I can gather should be happening from different wiring diagrams I've managed to find for a G10.

Problem is, I can't find a third terminal on the starter. Now admittedly the engine is in the car and space is somewhat limited, but it really doesn't seem like it should be this hard. At the moment I have the main battery cable on the larger lug, a smaller wire leading back to the the starter switch attached to a small terminal, and that's it. There should be a third connection, yes? Am I imagining this? If not, where should said terminal be? Anyone got a photo handy?

From memory the third wire on an MB starter supplies 12V to the coil on start (because it nominally runs at 9V).
G10A has electronic ignition, therefore no need for the third wire.

That's good, not going blind/crazy. Thank you.

Next question I guess then is where should the distributor/igniter wiring go then? Currently I have the main lead plus two smaller wires coming from the igniter; lead to the centre of the distributor, one small wire going to a switched 12v+, and the other leading towards the underside of the distributor (which i believe is the crank angle sensor?). Two wires from the underside of the distributor; one going back to the igniter, and the other is currently just floating as that what I thought had to go back to the starter. 

3 months later and the next stupid question. Sorted the distributor wiring and the car was running fine, but admittedly hasn't moved in about two months. Moved the battery today and now no crank. The battery is now inside the cabin behind the passenger seat, with a 4 gauge cable running back to the original terminal clamp. Starter is seeing 12v on the main cable direct to the battery, but the smaller trigger wire is barely showing any voltage. When you turn the key to start, the trigger wire sees 0.5v, which then spikes to about 5v as you let go of the key.

Presumably I'm chasing a short somewhere in the starting circuit?

Solved! With the worst kind of solution. Spent a couple of hours chasing wiring and making sure everything was going to where it was supposed to. Didn't change anything. Now works. No idea how or why, or what was happening before, but presumably I've moved a connection somewhere enough that it's not causing a problem any more. Lame.