Disc brake replacement. 85 MB

Wed Aug 19, 2009 8:24 pm

Hey all, Im up to changing the fron discs and have hit a small snag.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp21 ... 082009.jpg

The image is where im up to. Im trying to get the disc off, have got a couple of ideas, but hearing from someone who has actually done this would help.

Also, how do you go about getting out the lower ball joint?

Hope to hear something soon

Wed Aug 19, 2009 8:45 pm

It is easier to remove the rotor with the hub in situ, using a slide puller. Simply remove the caliper, undo the four rotor hat bolts and it should pull off. If you don't have a slide, then a rubber mallet can be used.

Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:37 am

Howdy ,not knowing I too removed it and had it done on a press (from memory a 10ton one) they also modified the knuckle at the same time, cheers

Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:43 am

As an ex mechanic i can give you a few tips :
the ball joint is usually pressed out but i have in the past got them out with brute force-

support the lower arm on something solid ie block of wood, make sure car is solid on jackstands before continuing use large hammer to knock the joint out - will take several well placed hits of significant force .

or if you can remove the lower arm secure in vice and hit out joint
joint can be put back in using g-clamp and two large sockets to protect the thread and back of joint works like press, one side rests on arm and other pushes the joint in.

i would recommend removing the arm and taking it to a workshop and getting them to press out and back in much better for the joint.

as for the hub i have never done a mighty boy but have done other cars which are similar i have only ever used the proper tool to split hubs but i found a link which may be of use

its from a honda forum but most front hubs are similar

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1281812

i would recommend taking the lower arm and hub to a workshop and getting them to replace the disc and ball joint for you for the simple reason i have seen what can happen if the suspension fails or is damaged when reassembled .

the main thing i would stress if you do this yourself is to check and double check every thing as you go make sure the joint is back in square, and the hub spins smoothly.

hope this helps pm me if you need any more help

Thu Aug 20, 2009 1:01 pm

A lower control arm/ball joint unit is only about $55, so I wouldn't bother trying to force the old one out. (They are designed as a single unit.)

Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:31 pm

Cheers for your input all. Appreciated!

So i can get the lower arm complete with ball joint ex-east but its not really necessary just yet, so some new boots and a fresh gutfull of grease should do for now.
Swaybar cone bushes/rubbers appearing to be a bit of an issue, there is not many 16mm ID bushes made, what bushes have been used in the past by some of you guys? (manufatcurer-part #) D-bushes are still in good nick, cones will last a bit longer but would like to replaced at a later date.

Got the disc off too! Woo!

Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:48 pm

On the topic of replacing rotors..
I just ordered some DBA slotted units for my MB and my Cruiser..
Will post pics when they arrive and get fitted.
About 2 - 3 weeks away as they have to be made from scratch.
Can't wait to see how much (if any) better than standard ones they are.

Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:50 am

I made the mistake of buying slotted DBA rotors for my MB. They warped in no time.

Next time I'm buying RDA.

Sat Aug 22, 2009 12:48 pm

Ive got RDA slotted rotors front and rear on my XR, they go alright hey!

Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:24 pm

I purchased all the bushes for the front end of my mighty boy from Suzuki. I think the parts list i originally did up has the part numbers of the suzuki items in it. They are not too pricey either.

That hub puller looks really good, probably way easier than the way i did mine, with a 6ton shop press, some sockets & lumps of steel & pipe. It was only a super cheap press, but it's paid for itself many, many times over!

Cheers

ToranaGuy