Extreme unstable ride?
-
killermule
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:53 am
Yeh fair enough. Booked in for one of them pedders checks on monday, and goin to another place on tuesday to get another quote for everything. Might see if I can budge cheapest down a bit more 
How hard is it to do the suspension yourself? I had a quick look around the forums but couldnt seem to find much instructional wise. How long did it take you to do?
How hard is it to do the suspension yourself? I had a quick look around the forums but couldnt seem to find much instructional wise. How long did it take you to do?
Easiest car to work on. Control arm comes out with 7 bolts, take swaybar off, 4 bolts at front of subframe. Remove split pin from control arm and undo that nut, swaybar and rubbes will come out. Then undo your hub to strut bolts (2).Remove split pin from tre then undo bolt half way, hot the knuckle with a hammer until the ball joint pops out, remove rest of nut and your tre is off, leave the tre in if your replacing the tre or rack end, as you need it to stay still while cracking the tre bolts. Remember i you remove your tre count how many turns, or you'll screw your wheel alignment up. Once the tre is out you can take the size 14 bolt that secures the lca in. Once removed you can remove the complete hub (assuming you removed the 2 17mm bolts holding the caliper on. Once hub is off you can then remove your control arm, when removing the hub it may help to hit the control arm down while holding the hub up, smashing the ball joint out. Theres a long 14mm bolt that holds each control arm to the chassis, once removed control arm should pull out, can be abit tricky if you dont get the angle right. To change your strut tops you need to crack the large 17mm bolt in the centre of the strut top, dont undo as the spring will come out. Once cracked remove the 3 12mm bolts, also have to disconnect brake lines from the strut (others have changed the strut tops with leaving them in but may aswell make life easier by disconnecting them). Once there undone you can remove the strut. To get to the strut top you will need spring compressors to compress the springs allowing you to remove the spring. Once compressed remove 17mm nut and it should all come apart. Thats the front, obviously reverse to put back in. The back is easy, undo the 14mm shackle bolts and remove bushes, then once back in remove 17mm front bolts and do the same with them. Easy as 
╔═══╗ ♪
║███║ ♫
║ (●) ║ ♫
╚═══╝
║███║ ♫
║ (●) ║ ♫
╚═══╝
The best place that I have found for spares for the Mighty Boy is at www.suzispares.com.au they will post parts anywhere.Hope this helps.
SuziSpares are good, but they're pretty expensive for most parts.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
-
killermule
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:53 am
Cheers for the write up billie! Gonna get 2 different quotes and see what the damage is first by getten them to do it
-
killermule
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:53 am
so.... i got my pedders check back... and... well.... not as bad as it coulda been but its pretty bad haha.
Front.
Shocks - Fail. Left is leaking.
Strut mounting plate - cracked or seperated
Bushes - was told they wouldnt last to much longer and for the small price of replacing big difference would be made
CV Joints - LH boot torn.
Enging mounts- RH Side enging mount split, other 2 are soft and sagged
Tyres - Wrong wheel nuts. WTF How did the previous owner get this wrong lol?
Front hose lines- damaged. outer seal rubber is cracked
Wheel bearings - LH front wheel bearing worn and making lots of noise. Replace both sides.
Rear
Shocks - soft, lacking control, recommend replacement.
Bushes- sam as front
Tyres - scollaping edges. how is the caused? fixable?
rear wheel cylinders - leaking. requires replacement.
park brake - requires adjustment.
road test - very floaty over road. brake pedal low.
Parts from pedders: $703.40
Labour from pedders: $545.00
parts not including (cos they cant source): front shocks, strut mounting plate, engine mounts, wheel nuts, front hose lines.
not bad for $14 bucks to give me a shopping list of what i need. got a heap of graphs and crap I dont understand.
mate comen round tonight to check it all out for me and then we gonna have a quick shop around online for it all and come up with some totals. Gonna call some shocks places to get quotes on some decent front and rear stuff.
I got part numbers here for what pedders is supplying if anyone ever needs.
Front.
Shocks - Fail. Left is leaking.
Strut mounting plate - cracked or seperated
Bushes - was told they wouldnt last to much longer and for the small price of replacing big difference would be made
CV Joints - LH boot torn.
Enging mounts- RH Side enging mount split, other 2 are soft and sagged
Tyres - Wrong wheel nuts. WTF How did the previous owner get this wrong lol?
Front hose lines- damaged. outer seal rubber is cracked
Wheel bearings - LH front wheel bearing worn and making lots of noise. Replace both sides.
Rear
Shocks - soft, lacking control, recommend replacement.
Bushes- sam as front
Tyres - scollaping edges. how is the caused? fixable?
rear wheel cylinders - leaking. requires replacement.
park brake - requires adjustment.
road test - very floaty over road. brake pedal low.
Parts from pedders: $703.40
Labour from pedders: $545.00
parts not including (cos they cant source): front shocks, strut mounting plate, engine mounts, wheel nuts, front hose lines.
not bad for $14 bucks to give me a shopping list of what i need. got a heap of graphs and crap I dont understand.
mate comen round tonight to check it all out for me and then we gonna have a quick shop around online for it all and come up with some totals. Gonna call some shocks places to get quotes on some decent front and rear stuff.
I got part numbers here for what pedders is supplying if anyone ever needs.
-Front shocks are no longer available. Search for what guys have done with Matiz and SA Swift gear for that. Rear you can get new from a few places. Koni have a VW part that suits, and is available in an adjustable "sport" model but if you are just looking at new for old, not really worth the price tag.
-Strut mounting plate (strut top is what I'm guessing they are referring to?) are available from Suzuki. A few people around here have recently purchased some so the part number will be floating around.
-Front and rear bushes, I just recently got a full kit of poly bushes from PolyTuff. Great guys to deal with and at a decent price. Though they are firmer than your standard rubber bushings.
-CV boots are about $14 from SuperCheap, if you need to replace the whole joint just take it in to a CV place and they should have what you need.
-Wheel nuts, "Nice products" (available from SuperCheap). Just use their online parts store and you will get all the prices and part numbers you need. Easiest way I have found.
-Brake lines, have a look on ebay, seems to be the hot MB product at the moment. Same with the wheel cylinders. Supercheap or any brake place can sort you out failing eBay.
-Handbrake is easy to adjust, Have a look at the workshop manual on here and you will get all the info you could need to do this and any of the other jobs here.
After you do all this, make sure you get it in for a wheel alignment. I would probably recommend doing things like replacing lower control arms, brake pads/shoes and tie rods/ends while its all apart, save the hassle of doing it later on. After that it will feel like a totally different car, and you will feel safer knowing that all those 26odd year old parts are new and fresh! I do have the part numbers for everything you need, but they are in the ute back in Canberra. Like I said though, quick search on here or the SCA part finder and you will find what you need to know.
-Strut mounting plate (strut top is what I'm guessing they are referring to?) are available from Suzuki. A few people around here have recently purchased some so the part number will be floating around.
-Front and rear bushes, I just recently got a full kit of poly bushes from PolyTuff. Great guys to deal with and at a decent price. Though they are firmer than your standard rubber bushings.
-CV boots are about $14 from SuperCheap, if you need to replace the whole joint just take it in to a CV place and they should have what you need.
-Wheel nuts, "Nice products" (available from SuperCheap). Just use their online parts store and you will get all the prices and part numbers you need. Easiest way I have found.
-Brake lines, have a look on ebay, seems to be the hot MB product at the moment. Same with the wheel cylinders. Supercheap or any brake place can sort you out failing eBay.
-Handbrake is easy to adjust, Have a look at the workshop manual on here and you will get all the info you could need to do this and any of the other jobs here.
After you do all this, make sure you get it in for a wheel alignment. I would probably recommend doing things like replacing lower control arms, brake pads/shoes and tie rods/ends while its all apart, save the hassle of doing it later on. After that it will feel like a totally different car, and you will feel safer knowing that all those 26odd year old parts are new and fresh! I do have the part numbers for everything you need, but they are in the ute back in Canberra. Like I said though, quick search on here or the SCA part finder and you will find what you need to know.
Garry. Nuff sed!
Forgot to add that if you are searching for parts through places, some wont have reference for the MightyBoy (SS40T), but may have them for the Hatch and Alto of the same era (SS40V and SS80V). SS40V is drums all around and has a different rear brake hose setup and SS80V has different rear spring setup (3 leaf as opposed to the MB's 1, not that this will really mean much for what you need). I think that's all correct.
Garry. Nuff sed!
-
killermule
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:53 am
crap. didnt realise fronts werent available at all any more 
Planning on supercharging and have read that the brake upgrades may be required by the engineer so I will definitely have a look at the sa swift gti option.... just gotta convince a mate to help me out cheap haha. GOtta get around to upullit and wreckers and see what I can get.
gonna call a few guys re: rear shocks. koni seems to be the way to go...
if anyone has any suggestions of what they may have picked up recently (instead of from a few years ago) post away. im all ears for what I should get. Would prefer harder shocks to stop the roll!
Planning on supercharging and have read that the brake upgrades may be required by the engineer so I will definitely have a look at the sa swift gti option.... just gotta convince a mate to help me out cheap haha. GOtta get around to upullit and wreckers and see what I can get.
gonna call a few guys re: rear shocks. koni seems to be the way to go...
if anyone has any suggestions of what they may have picked up recently (instead of from a few years ago) post away. im all ears for what I should get. Would prefer harder shocks to stop the roll!