Then an inline Bosch 044 pump will work just fine.
My advice is mount it close to the tank and lower than the tank outlet. These pumps are great for supplying high pressure but aren't designed to pull a head of fuel, so you need gravity to help feed it.
SC100 bastardisation project.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Updates?
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Hey all,
car definitely on the back burner at the moment. Was dealing with my Dad's terminal cancer for most of last year and had the car at a workshop for 4months for "3days work, mate" I threw copious amounts of money at them desperate to get it drivable by November but they turned around mid-October and said they didn't have the time to finish the job.
Grrr to say the least.
Anyway, Dad passed away late last year and the car has been shuttled around different places looking for someone to complete the job as I just don't have the time/space or know-how to complete it. Its a major PITA as I have to have it towed everywhere to get quotes. And now I have to take Dad's ashes back to Ireland so there goes the best part of $5k.
So, here are photos of the last work done (bead blasting and painting)
car definitely on the back burner at the moment. Was dealing with my Dad's terminal cancer for most of last year and had the car at a workshop for 4months for "3days work, mate" I threw copious amounts of money at them desperate to get it drivable by November but they turned around mid-October and said they didn't have the time to finish the job.
Grrr to say the least.
Anyway, Dad passed away late last year and the car has been shuttled around different places looking for someone to complete the job as I just don't have the time/space or know-how to complete it. Its a major PITA as I have to have it towed everywhere to get quotes. And now I have to take Dad's ashes back to Ireland so there goes the best part of $5k.
So, here are photos of the last work done (bead blasting and painting)
AFAIK there are just a few little things to get it running,
there are some water pipes that need to be connected,
need to install a gas sensor and all the vacuum tubing (the mechanic said they had got it started and it was making boost at idle... they said fitting all the vacuum hoses may rectify that...)
the lights all have to be wired up and possibly the dash gauges.
once thats done and it can be started and driven i will be able to tell if the SC100 gearbox can handle the F6a. If it can, then I will go ahead with certification and all cosmetic work. If it can't, then I have blown $8.5K and will have to put the old F10a back in but will probably just put up a $1 reserve auction and cut my losses.
incidentally the workshop that had the car was contracted to do all the wiring which i though meant hooking up the lights and the dashboard but apparently not. They have also left a worryingly large box of parts in the back of the car, inc. the turbo timer. Is this not a necessary part on a turbo car??
All in all its been pretty frustrating! compounded, of course, by the fact that I have gone about the conversion backward. everyone said I should have done the bodywork first, but shit man, live and learn right?
there are some water pipes that need to be connected,
need to install a gas sensor and all the vacuum tubing (the mechanic said they had got it started and it was making boost at idle... they said fitting all the vacuum hoses may rectify that...)
the lights all have to be wired up and possibly the dash gauges.
once thats done and it can be started and driven i will be able to tell if the SC100 gearbox can handle the F6a. If it can, then I will go ahead with certification and all cosmetic work. If it can't, then I have blown $8.5K and will have to put the old F10a back in but will probably just put up a $1 reserve auction and cut my losses.
incidentally the workshop that had the car was contracted to do all the wiring which i though meant hooking up the lights and the dashboard but apparently not. They have also left a worryingly large box of parts in the back of the car, inc. the turbo timer. Is this not a necessary part on a turbo car??
All in all its been pretty frustrating! compounded, of course, by the fact that I have gone about the conversion backward. everyone said I should have done the bodywork first, but shit man, live and learn right?
Hi Everyone! time for an update...
this is from the mechanic:
"Sorted all vacuum/fuel lines etc, removed all brackets/EGR valve/switches not required, fabricated throttle cable bracket, fitted some rubber mounts to the fuel pump to shut it up a bit, replaced some of the fuel line with correct grade hose, ran it up & checked charge rate etc – all good. Made up flange to redirect turbo outlet, got some tubing coming for the radiator pipes & turbo pipe, should have that sorted this week. Have taken pics as we go (your camera appears to have a full sd card)."
and then:
"Attached some pics of progress, today & tomorrow are welding days so we hope to finish weld & paint all the tubing shown in the pics, then reassemble the car and run it up, check for coolant leaks etc and hopefully road test it! You should be able to refit the back seat now too!"
so close I can almost taste it...
also, I've been trawling Youtube for footage of the cappa being driven hard... I think I'll have to upgrade the brakes almost immediately
this is from the mechanic:
"Sorted all vacuum/fuel lines etc, removed all brackets/EGR valve/switches not required, fabricated throttle cable bracket, fitted some rubber mounts to the fuel pump to shut it up a bit, replaced some of the fuel line with correct grade hose, ran it up & checked charge rate etc – all good. Made up flange to redirect turbo outlet, got some tubing coming for the radiator pipes & turbo pipe, should have that sorted this week. Have taken pics as we go (your camera appears to have a full sd card)."
and then:
"Attached some pics of progress, today & tomorrow are welding days so we hope to finish weld & paint all the tubing shown in the pics, then reassemble the car and run it up, check for coolant leaks etc and hopefully road test it! You should be able to refit the back seat now too!"
so close I can almost taste it...
also, I've been trawling Youtube for footage of the cappa being driven hard... I think I'll have to upgrade the brakes almost immediately
Tasty.
Brake upgrade would be a necessity.
Brake upgrade would be a necessity.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Yeh you're right! Any ideas? I'm sure I can get some high quality pads made but how do I stop brake fade?
Also thinking about colour/ finishing... I'd like to keep it simple but interesting if you know what I mean... An old friend was keen to airbrush something on it but we've lost touch... What does TMB think?
Also thinking about colour/ finishing... I'd like to keep it simple but interesting if you know what I mean... An old friend was keen to airbrush something on it but we've lost touch... What does TMB think?
You would need more than upgraded pads. I'm not familiar with the front hub setup on the Cervo, but surely something from a later model Alto/Cappuccino could be adapted.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Oh do you mean from the first pic?
That was Land Rover Green No.3 I believe...
It was a nice colour... sometimes bright metallic green, sometimes black and sometimes blue
As for the brakes, would replacing the master cylinder and adding braided brake hoses etc improve matters? not all that keen to start changing hubs...
That was Land Rover Green No.3 I believe...
It was a nice colour... sometimes bright metallic green, sometimes black and sometimes blue
As for the brakes, would replacing the master cylinder and adding braided brake hoses etc improve matters? not all that keen to start changing hubs...
Upgrading the master cylinder will only change the force you can apply. The real issue is the contact size of the pads, and I can tell you that standard MB brakes with slotted rotors and good pads are only marginal with a turbo setup.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
On such a small (and light) car the rear brakes don't do much work, so the standard drums should be fine for street use. Looking at the pics you've posted of the underside I think that Carry (SK410) front hubs might be a good solution. Unlikely to be a direct fit, but the configuration looks similar. Some more pics of the existing front hubs/brakes would help.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.