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Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 11:11 am
by stevan_istheman
Little kids don't usually run out infont of people on the bruce highway and trucks wouldnt have time to stop anyway...
I don't use the hand throttle that much anyway, there's way too many old farts doing 70-80 in a 110 zone.

(and they drive cars capable of that speed, not stock little F5A's)

Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 8:14 pm
by Crank
People... i'm not that stupid to use my cruise control thingy in town, actually i don't intend to use it at all. It's just that i left the cable of the choke in place even after i've removed the choke plate & the rod.
Recently my throttle cable snapped (i used a spurious one), and i was thankful that i left the vestigial choke in place

it helped me to pull to the nearest garage & get it repaired.
Another query, Jono gave me the idea... Well does it really helps if i put a Weber from a Iliter Uno onto the F8B? The mech says Weber carbs are a bitch to get the jetting right. But is it really worth the effort, performance wise?
Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 1:02 pm
by jono
yes, the weber would be a bitch to rejet if it was from a one litre engine. i got mine from daronk18, it's a 30DIC and it came of the fiat 850 sport. given my F8B was recently rebuilt and hada 30 thou ovrebore, this carby is perfect. the only thing that needs doing is getting an adaptor plate and mucking around with the linkages....
i reckon performance wise it will be heaps better asthe secondary stage is mechanically activated, so i don't have to worry bout that stupid vacuum diaphragm!!
i won't be putting in on till semester break in june so won't let u know how much of a difference it makes..
not sure if anybody else has put on a 30DIC weber on ther MB

Posted: Sat May 13, 2006 4:56 pm
by Crank
Jono, after your break do let me know how much difference it really makes, Top end & acceleration. Webers are not easy to come by here so i might have to do a thorough search before i can get one.
The mech says the Uno 1 liters Weber's secondary is not mechanically actuated but is opened by engine vaccum in a different way unlike the mikunis. He says, it doesn't have any diaphragm thingy to suck it open & it'll get opened by the vaccum engine generates and the engine directly sucks it open.
Posted: Sun May 14, 2006 12:49 pm
by Killa Hatch
Killa Hatch wrote:You could try phoning Fiaparts in Melb. 03 9532 1584. Last time I was chasing a carbie I rang them and a 30DIC Webber (Fiat 850) was $80 plus gst plus frieght. If you want to have a play around I sourced a 32DIR of a Renault and put that on. All I needed it to fit it was a webber adaptor plate from Sprint Autos. After messing around at a wreckers with other carbies I found that the stud pattern for the original hatch carb was the same as a Datsun carb. Redline make a Carbie adaptor plate for Datsuns to take a Webber. Cost me $35. The Renault carb needed a bit of rejetting but that is easy as it ran rich so I just pulled out the jets and soldered them up and used jet drills to re-drill them untill the car ran sweet.
The best thing about the webber is a manual secondary barrel. It beats having to wait for a vacuum to open up. Tromp the foot and away you go. Oh and it does wicked key bangers to. Shoots out a nice flame.
I forgot to mention that with the Renult carbie I got 4 of them and they cost me only a bottle of red.

Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 12:14 pm
by jono
yep, will do that for you mate. i need to line up an adaptor plate and the people from redline auto need the bolt pattern and measurement of manifold. only thing is i will have to take my carby off to get it and probably wreck gaskets.
i don't suppose anybody out there can give me the information i need, i.e the bolt pattern for the 800 carb and the manifold measurement!!!
thanks,
jono
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 5:56 pm
by Killa Hatch
Just go to your local auto shop. Look in the redline book and get the adaptor that fits a webber carbie ie a 32DIR or DVGA 32/26 (same stud pattern) to a datsun 180b, 200b, blue bird or 240k manafold (they are all the same). The dato carbies have the identical stud pattern as the suzuki. The adaptor kits come with gaskets also so you shouldn't really need to worry about yours. When you put the gasket on use some permatex to help seal it that way if you need to remove it down the track it doesn't tear the gasket when removing. Other gasket eliminator liquids do stick the gasket down hence tearing it when removing.
If the blokes at redline can't figure that out from that information they are probably in the wrong industry. When I got my plate all that information was in the book at Sprint autos. They may just need to open their eyes up a little.
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 7:50 pm
by Killa Hatch
Had a quick look in the book while down the main drag. 15 seconds later, pg 15,
part# 10-112, adaptor plate for webber carbie to suit datsun 1600,180b,200b,bluebird,260c,240k etc etc.
Enjoy the fun of Webber Power.......

Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 11:58 am
by jono
cheers, tahnks mate, so if i get that she'll be all okay then to put my 30DIC weber on?
i was thinkin about getttin a carby rebuild kit for the 30DIC too, for 50 bucks off ebay, it comes with all gaskets, pump diaphragm needles and stuff.. is it worth getting u reckon??
thanks
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 12:57 pm
by jono
i've been thinking.... the carby i have is not a DGV series so a datsun adaptor plate won't fit, am i right???
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 7:23 pm
by Killa Hatch
I've never worried about a carbie kit with all the other carbies I've used on various cars before. I just put the carbie in a bucket and cover with petrol and let soak for a few days and then give it a good clean with a cheap/old tooth brush. I then usually pull the lid off of them, making sure I don't loose those pesky little ball bearings that can fall out(it even pays to take it appart on some newspaper and then tape over the holes where these balls sit so you don't loose them. If they do fall out they should be easy to see on the paper), then using light air pressure give all the chambers a blow out.
With the lid of I even fill up the fuel bowl and work the throttle linkages just to make sure the throttle accelerator pump is working
The only carbie I have ever had problems with was a early model hatch belive it or not. The float was made of a real brittle plastic and shattered when I went to remove it. Most webbers/solexs/delortos have brass or tough black plastic floats in them.
I don't have a 30DIC in the shed at the moment, so I can double check with my other carbies, what is your stud pattern/hole centre size on it?
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 12:29 pm
by jono
Unfortunately i don't have the carby with me, it's at my mechanics place about three hours away ( i am studying at uni). i sent him an e-mail though so i will let you know re the centre size.
about the rebuild kit, i though it might be good to give it a good clean, my mechanic reckons it would be good but i will ask him if i am just better off saving 50 bucks and soak it in petrol!
thanks mate,
jono
Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 11:34 am
by jono
hey, i don't know how to put pics up here but i got some measurements for ya.
it's 91X59 overall.
the two holes are 31mm in diameter.
the distance between studs is 74x42.
if u can't understand this, give me your e-mail and i can forward the image to u.
i've also sent the image to the guys at redline auto......
cheers,
jono[/img]
Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 9:24 pm
by mowog
with those pesky ball bearings (you find them in gearboxes too stuffed down little holes you can't quite get at) the secret is to slap a dollop of grease in the hole. that holds them in place and when the petrol goes through it washes the grease out where it is harmlessly burnt in the motor.
Posted: Sun May 28, 2006 3:22 pm
by Killa Hatch
That grease idea is a bloody ripper.
I never thought of doing that to hold the balls in place. I have used grease before to hold nuts in sockets and the likes to prevent loosing them if working in a downward position.