et.turbo.dude wrote:thanks for the advice ToranaGuy. i really was only interested in getting a Mighty Boy iffen a G13B would of been an easy swap. but doesn't sound like it is at all! so i have kinda lost interest in the whole thing. i originally was thinking Mighty Boy + G13B + Turbocharged. even if i did do the conversion it sounds like i couldn't get it past an engineer anyway. damn law's take away all the fun! i'll just stick with my ET Turbo Pulsar's.
cheers, Ash
Go talk to an engi before you loose interest in the project, because it would make for one hot pocket rocket!
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|
I think a 1300 would be well doable. The best bet with the rails would be to move the whole rail out. From what I could tell today (with a quick peek under the car) the rail is only spot welded to the shell. RTA tech line has the MB listed as 500kg so with a NA motor you could go up to 1500cc.
Qld has some of the most strict rules in australia when it comes to car modifications and 1 thing i have learned in 20 odd yrs of playing with cars is that anything is possible... it all depends on how much time, money and patience you have.
For 4 months i have been hearing that its not possible to do what i want to do to the mighty boy and still have it as road registerable and driveable. 4 months later and the boy is still sitting in the shed with very little work done to it, a lot of phone calls and a lot of research later i found that it is possible and can be done.
The way i see it, if you really want to do it. it all comes down to patience, time, money and commitment. if your not preparred to put all 4 of those in to a project then it will never be achieved. put the time in, do your research, talk to as many different ppl as you can. then make up your mind if you want to do it or not.
Personally... I say go for it!!
Drive: 1997 Toyota Starlet... (the incognito mobile)
1985 Suzuki Mighty Boy, currently being restored.
1995 Nissan GT-R33
allmtr wrote:I think a 1300 would be well doable. The best bet with the rails would be to move the whole rail out.
Where are you going to move the rails "out" to? The inner wheel arch is on the other side of the sheet metal, and if you shift the rail into that space then there's going to be no room for the wheels to steer.
Don't forget that you also have to upgrade the brakes to GTi spec, and that means fitting at least 13" wheels to cover them, which gives you even less space in the wheel arch.
I think the only possibility is to C notch the rails, but you'd have to convince and engineer that it doesn't affect the crash dynamics.
I'll have a better look tomoro. From what I saw you could move the rails out about 2 inches ie there width so the inside of the rail is against the inner wheel arch panel. Rim offset could give a little bit of room for steering plus you could lose a little lock to help out.
Suppose if you were going to all the trouble, may as well go 20 valve
Just thought I would throw in my two cents here. I agree with Brayden, there is no more metal in the rails left to notch without basically removing them from the equation entirely. I think you are dealing with some genuine dimentional limitations here. The reality is you are grafting the wide front track of a Swift onto the narrow (in relation) Mighty. For all the work involved, you probably would be better off with a 20V and run it North/South. A G10 JUST fits in, I just dont think the MB is capable of accomodating that extra cylinder in an East/West configuration.
A G13BA conversion has been done, but the guy who did the job was extremely light on the details when asked, and info on exactly how much metal went 'missing' during the process wasn't given.
My ute is up on stands at the moment, so I had a look in the wheel arches, and if you shifted the rails outwards by 2" you would be rubbing on the struts - forget about space for steering!
An electric water pump wouldn't save you any space in the right area because you still need the crank pulley to run the alternator - and there's no easy way around that.
The only solution I can come up with is to find a compatible gearbox that is 2-3" smaller than the GTi box, and bolt that on. Then there would be no issues with space.
1) Does the GTi box have a pressed steel cover that covers 5th gear? I know Mazda FWD boxes do this. This could be removed/machined off leaving you with a shorter (4 speed) box
2) I believe the big HP PR cars run a mitsu box. This may be shorter. I have a local wrecker on side so if someone has then width measurement of the gti box????
Did some looking around the wreckers and the GTi box (at 15 inches) is about as short as your gonna get. You could machine the mating surface 1/2 inch and also gain an inch from a few tricks at the other end of the box.
As has been said, EWP won't save any room cause you still need to run an alternator. However there are a few tricks to employ to get 1/2 off that end.
Seeing tho the rails are spot welded on, you could remove them and get them professionally sectioned and refit them. Only side by side comparison would be able to pick it.
All seems doable with little money but a fair bit of time and effort. Would certainly haul ass...
Run the alt of the axle, no charging when your not moving but ,then away with the crank pulley.Also need to run cam sensor if there was a crank one for EFI
There's been talk of modifying the drivers side rail for fitment, what about the passenger side, could a little be taken off it & with some small sheet metal mods make it ( G13a ) fit?
Without a really custom intake manifold i think the G13b twincam is too wide up top to fit??
Cheers
ToranaGuy
It's update time MB Parts list! send part info to toranaguy74@optusnet.com.au|
