Team MightyBoy

Just read through all your responses again and I'm now thinking that The Suzuki pumps were most likely a different size for each of the engines but as ike849 pointed out, the flow rate difference is minimal to the point that an F5A pump was enough to deliver a satisfactory amount of fuel to an F8B (though if any power increasing mods were then done, it may not have been good enough). Therefore at this point I'm figuring that the aftermarket manufacturers may have just made one model that has a fuel delivery level somewhere in the middle, enough to satisfy both engines. Again, as said above, a spacer plate should be able to compensate for the difference in lever length. The one I just pulled out has a black 1.5cm plastic (or something like it) plate that was between the pump and the engine. I haven't had a good look but it may just be part of the pump. I will see if I can seperate it tomorrow to determine if it's a spacer.
If a brand like fuel miser is going to list the one item for the F5a, the F8B AND the 1 ltr swift motor, then you have to believe that some kind of merge has taken place as they wouldn't be likely to mess it up. Time will tell...as I said before, I'll keep you posted.
Cookie

the black plastic part is a heat insualtor a seperate item to the pump , it will help stop fuel vapourisation ect , stick it back on . pump will have 2 gaskets .
i have come across 2 different > fuel pump / dizzy mounting castings that bolt onto head . both fit , but one will / may cause an oil leak at the small bleed hole in the fuel pump .

cookie i think your worrying too much, pretty much all carby pumps are within a range of 3-5psi from memory (except high BHP designed pumps), so issues with too much pressure over coming your float needle and flooding your engine aren't going to happen.....

the suzuki specs for the pumps are;
hatch500 (same as MB) - 2.85-4.27psi at 0.2litres/min
hatch800 - 2.85-4.27psi at 0.2litres/min

so you can see there is no difference in the specs, just a physical difference at manufacture.

i have converted mine to an electric fuel pump i had on one of my bikes, and converted a friends to electric using the $50 solid state ones on ebay.....neither have had any issues.

just make sure you use gaskets & gasket goo on the blanking plate you make up when you remove the mechanical pump, otherwise oil will drip directly onto the timing inspection hole in the gear box and into your clutch.

Thanks for that Ike, had a look at the ones on ebay, they seem okay. They have the following 3 listed at the moment:

FED-40104 – Pressure range 2.0-3.5 PSI – Max Flow 28 GPH

FED-40105 – Pressure range 3.0-4.5 PSI – Max Flow 30 GPH

FED-40106 – Pressure range 4.5-6.0 PSI – Max Flow 34 GPH

I'm guessing the middle one would be closest to the original pressure.

Is that the one you've used? also, where did you hook the positive wire to to operate the pump?

I've ordered a mechanical one through Suzisport but I'll keep this idea in mind if it doesn't work out.

yeah the middle one looks to be the best 'fit'....don't remember what fitted to my mates car????

i just split the wire from the carby fuel cut solenoid (or any other wire you find in the engine bay that has power when the key is in the on position) and used that to power the pump (ignition on & accessories on - pump fuel).

I just left it at that with the negative wire grounded to the bracket i made up for it.

You should wire the negative wire into the oil pressure switch wire with a diode on it (so that the oil pressure wire doesn't ground out through the pump and give you false readings on the dash).

When you wire it like that the pump is only 'on' when there is oil pressure which is only when the engine is actually working.....no risk of fuel pumping everywhere if you were in a crash and fuel line got cut.

alternatively you could do what i did with my MB and wire in a fuel pump relay. I got mine from a honda cbr250r (mc19). It works off the coil. It only allows power to the pump when the coil is firing again very safe in a car crash (engine usually stalls so it is no longer firing or providing oil pressure)

ike849 wrote: just make sure you use gaskets & gasket goo on the blanking plate you make up when you remove the mechanical pump, otherwise oil will drip directly onto the timing inspection hole in the gear box and into your clutch.

+1 for that sage advice. I finally got around to removing the old pump and blanking off the housing on the snot rocket, didn't seal it properly and got a single drop of oil on the clutch it started slipping like crazy.

Luckily it burned off by the time I drove to AutoBarn and bought a rubber grommet for the inspection hole on the bellhousing.

Hi1 have read most data from you guys re fuel pumps and am chasing one now for F5A difference in quotes locally [ NSW central coast ] are huge cheapest so far being $111.
You quote Suziwest [ West Aust ] and or Suziparts in Melbourne.
Does anyone know if there are similar outlets in Sydney area?
Why did'nt the dick head designer make the diaphragm accessable for replacement.?
Silly question I suppose cheaper to make and you have to buy more spares.

Try SuziSport in Seven Hills (Sydney) or Suzuki Auto Care (Brisbane).

An electric pump conversion might work out cheaper.

Jock, I got mine from Suzisport online shop. Go to the website and click on the "specials" button, it will take you to a page that says "october specials". About 2/3's down the page is a mighty boy pump for 30 something dollars ($36.00 I think) I ordered one and it came to $50 exactly with postage. It arrived the next day in Melbourne and works a treat. This one is actually better than the Suzuki ones as it is not a sealed unit that has to be thrown out when it dies...has screws in the top so you can replace the diaphram when required.....but you must definately put a rag over the inspection hole as the fuel pump is directly above it.

Brayden, you said that the oil burnt off your clutch....mines slipping BIG TIME...is that likely to fix itself or is it new clutch time?...Can you spray degreaser down there to give it a helping hand or will that just take the lubricant off the bearings etc??? Really don't wanna have to do a clutch. Should I have a go at a long drive and see if it improves...so far have just been round the block a few times...seems to grab just as I release the pedal but when it's fully up it feels like I'm in neutral...lots of revs....very little grab.

Mine must have only got the smallest of drops on it, and being turbo there is a lot more stress on the clutch. I doubt the amount of oil I got on the clutch would have even been noticed on a standard F8B.

If yours is slipping badly then it might be too far gone to salvage. Once oil gets into an organic clutch plate there's not much you can do to fix it.

hmmm...never done a clutch on a front wheel drive...done plenty on RWD's. Looking at it, I'd say it's easier to take the engine/box out and do it rather than doing it in the car. Is that the case? Then again I need to replace a front oil seal anyway so I might as well take it out...

i took the engine out my boy buy myself. not a hard task. just unpluggin everything is a pain in the ass.

i second that, changed the motor on my boy and lifted it out with some chain and steel(and dad )

Yeah getting it out won't be much trouble...I'll get my 16yo to help lift it.

On a seperate note....is it just me or are all the nuts and bolts on these engines purposely positioned to make them difficult to get to with normal size hands...just did the fuel pump and carby and found there was no room to move the spanners/ratchets....had to cut a few spanners in half just to allow me to get a tiny bit of movement...maybe I should invest in a new tool set with "tiny" ratchets etc...

That said....once the engine/box is out, are all the nuts/bolts that need to be removed easily accessible and is it pretty straight forward from there? I've got a clutch aligning tool so that should be fine....any other "special" tools I may need?

any jap engine is hard to get round, ever played with a subaru... ew, a nightmare. but once the engine is out its not hard to get to everything.