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Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 5:53 pm
by Josh
Good-o!

Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 7:33 pm
by evilgidget
Just remember to stand off to one side, just in case the light at the end of the tunnel turns out to be the 3.30 train running a little early...
Seal shouldn't be loose at all. Should have to bash the focker in if it ain't gonna leak.
Posted: Tue May 11, 2004 11:08 am
by Mel
you have such a way with words adam!!!!
Posted: Fri May 14, 2004 11:36 pm
by mowog
I always use non hardening gasket goo (that's the name) on oil seals. Don't get it on the seal lip's surface. The seal should be a tight fit as said above, you should have to knock it in with a bit of wood placed across it and gently tapping around the edge. Or if you have a large socket that fits on the metal part or build up a selection of bits of water pipe about 100mm long these will fit a lot of seals. Silicon is very hard to get to stick as the metal is impregnated with oil and it is hard to clean it off. Also after cleaning bits of silicon out of the radiator and cooling system of my Gemini (placed there by a previous mechanic?? to seal the timing cover I have completely steered away from silicone for anything on my cars.
Posted: Sat May 15, 2004 1:08 am
by Brayden
Yeah, fixed the crank seal no worries. Next problem is the sump gasket - replaced it twice and it just keeps leaking. Bloody cork shit - I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and replace it with a tube of instant gasket and hope that works.
As I said, tried one cork gasket, then tried another with non-hardening sealant. It seems that if the bolts are too loose, it leaks, and if they're too tight, the cork gets squeezed out and it leaks. What a load of bollocks.
Posted: Sat May 15, 2004 9:14 am
by Colin
when fitting a cork gasket you must do it dry
if your constantly leaking its probibly from excessive crankcase pressure
(either from worn rings or constant high revs) i fixed mine by fitting a crankcase breather to the back of the sump

Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 11:14 pm
by mowog
If the sump continues to give trouble try checking the bolt holes sometimes they get a bit of a lip around the inner edge from being done up tight, you fix it by going around with a block of wood underneath and a hammer on top to flatten them down. I have had this problem before especially with rocker covers.
Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 11:58 pm
by Brayden
I ended up sealing it with RTV silicone and pissing the cork seal off altogether. It is still weeping one or two drops every now and then, but I'm not too worried - the engine has to come out again very soon to fit the turbo setup.

Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 8:17 am
by Colin
as the dog says rrrrough

sounds like a pete repair

Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 5:15 pm
by Josh
Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 6:08 pm
by Brayden
Hahah...
Its rough, but it runs.

Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 6:40 pm
by Josh
...could certainly be a lot worse!

cam
Posted: Sun May 30, 2004 1:20 pm
by rdooey
brayden you have more than likely have your car back together now. on the 800 motor there should be two arrows stamped on the inside timing belt cover,one above the crankbelt gear to line up the keyway & one above the timing gear to line up the arrow on the camgear.

Posted: Sun May 30, 2004 6:22 pm
by Brayden
Yes yes, but if my problem was that I thought the cam may have turned through 360 degrees, meaning that the marks line up, but the cam is still out, and would cause much breakage should I have started it.
But as I have mentioned that wasn't the case and its all good now. Cheers.
