Team MightyBoy

Heres the van going back together:



Wont be long before shes back on the road.

Its been an eventful week!
Got some Nissan Pulsar GTI-R front seats for the van, the last owner chopped half the rails off for his new seats but nothing a MIG and some mild steel cant fix.

As you can see from the shots above the van will be rocking MK2 Nissan Gazelle rims, and the old exhaust system that came off the gazelle is going to be fitted up this weekend.

Im chasing a boss kit that'll fit so I can fit my racing wheel. I figure I've got lots of parts from a half built track car sitting here I might as well put them to good use, lol.

I spent a few hours and got the engine, box, tail shaft, rad, and wiring back together, all thats left now is the new thermo on the rad and the F10A is a goer!


The G15B DOHC engine with the G13BB box is still going ahead...
The intake is proving to be difficult to mock up. But ive already got a HKS intercooler an just won a T25 on ebay. Ive got a plan for the turbo exhaust that I think everyone here will like, can anyone say side exit 4inch JUN cannon muffler?

Anyway, I just need to get the thing back on the road again...


Cheers,
Sam.

sweet will have to catch up in adelaide one day

maybe raise a few eye brows,,,, and maybe some burnouts
in my ute and your van

Yeh for sure. Id like to do a Tamon cruse one day...


This is a quick throw together of the interior...




Sam.

Back on the road.
Rims, Seats and exhaust fitted. The van has never ran better
Spent about 4 hours cleaning it yesterday, looks real tidy now!


Sam.

Update time:
After hunting all this time I finally got a 2000 model Suzuki carry sump off a G13BB. Its making the long trip down from QLD to SA, lol.

Boss kit has arrived, yet to see if it fits.

T25G turbo will be in my lap by next monday.

That sump really was the last piece of the puzzle, its all just a matter of having the time to screw it all together. The mid year uni holidays seem like a good time.

Ill throw some pics up as stuff gets done.


Sam.

I know its a bit late but i have been sent the following info:

Conversion:
Twin cam G13B head onto G16A block.

Benefits:
Replaces the narrow angle 16 valve SOHC design fitted with throttle-body injection for a 16 valve DOHC equipped with multi-point EFI.
Mods Required:
Firstly (in case you're thinking of another way), the 1600 engine's crank is slightly too long to fit in the 1300 twin cam block, which is why this head conversion is the only viable option for a big cube Swift.
A 16 valve 1600 bottom end is the best platform, as it already has valve recesses in each piston. Stud patterns, bolt sizes and galleries all match perfectly. The block should be then equipped with a 1.8mm Vitara head gasket (Part No 1114171C00) to lower the CR to a more manageable level. Compression ratio with this head gasket will work out to just over 10:1.
A cam belt sourced from a belt supplier (such as Gates), is also needed to compensate for the 1600's 30mm taller block. The belt must be connected to the GTi's crank pulley (Part No 12631 53B00) while a smaller diameter tensioner (Part No 12810 53B01000) may give more flexibility when choosing the belt. In addition, custom cam belt covers will need to be fabricated.
The safest and most effective method of controlling fuel and ignition is to use an aftermarket ECU suitably programmed.

Contact:

Suzuki Auto Centre
Adelaide, Australia

That’s from the AutoSpeed site. It’s an article called "Head Start".

See here: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110289/article.html

The block im using is a 1.5L job out of a JDM Suzuki Baleno.
It shares the same external dimensions and bore size (1mm larger than the 1.3), as the 1.6 but is de-stroked to 1.5L. The real difference is that the block is of a closed deck design, so im hoping it'll hold together under boost a bit better. While I had the sump off I threw on the GTI crank girdle as well.

I need to invest in the smaller tensioner, but I screwed the head on with a 1.8L head gasket. The timing belt is from a 1.6L Honda engine.

Im looking at MegaSquirt for fuel and ignition... Reading up ATM.

The boss kit fits the shaft but not the wheel ive got time to start drilling and tapping I spose!

Thanks for the info btw.
Sam.

Ok, here we go again.


Look how much bigger the mains caps of the 15A are... Massive.


The bearings are much larger too... bigger surface area means they can handle more power!


Heres a shot of the bottom end with the 5th cap removed.
There is LOADS more alloy holding it all together than the G13B.
Same hollow crank though.


An internal shot of the new sump. Notice the hole at the top, the G15A block has provision for this... The G13B does not...


Where im pointing to, the alloy has to be removed and a new section welded in. At first I thought I could just remove the girdle and get away with it. However due to the size of the main caps it still wont fit... Never mind. Im keeping the girdle and going to town on the sump!

The more stout this setup is the happier ill be!


Bad shot of the pickup baffle, its a real shallow sump but should be fine with the added capacity of the oil cooler and remote filter kit.

As for the ECU, having a spare adjustable fuel pressure regulator means that I think ill run the stock ECU and just wind up the base pressure a bit.

Comments and questions are welcomed.
Cheers,
Sam.

Heres a shot of the motor whacked together, its a little taller than the F10A.

Looks like it'll go fast tho

Got the turbo, T25G.


A nice shot of how the interior is looking.


I think ill be installing the motor and running it NA untill I can fully swap the computer, and have time to make a turbo manifold.

Sam.

I want to know how you're going to cram all this stuff into that engine compartment!

just cut the foam out of the bottom of the seat. makes heaps of room.

Well its going to be moved backwards, and a little lower to the ground.
For reference, the new sump finishes level with the bottom of the current cross member.

How far the motor goes backwards is a matter of the new trans hitting the fuel tank (if I don't move that) and how short I can make a tail shaft before I keep blowing rear gearbox seals...

The radiator is going over the rear axle ATM, but I'll see how far back the engine is before that happens.

I would like to 1/2 cage the rear, along with installing a datsun 1200 ute diff (converted to LSD for traction) setup to take the extra weight.

Im looking at rebuilding the front shocks and with more weight rearward, the standard spring rate should be fine.

I want to swap to 14inch rims and lower the car about 5cm at the front / back.

Anyway... soon.

Sam.

how bout a paint job, or aleast take the stickers off....

or are you after that sleeper im-just-a-laundry-van look?