Team MightyBoy

I saw that guy putting a G13B (i think) into his super carry, so I found me a K10a Turbo motor. 970cc DOHC VVT Turbo. Came out of a suzuki wagon R with 25,000kms on it.

I've just finished getting the motor to sit on engine mounts and am just tidying them up now.
I've had the intake drastically changed and I made some blocks up to adapt my gearbox to the engine.

When I first got the engine:


My test fitting van that I got free:










I've got a surge tank and EFI fuel pump. All I really need now is intercooler and radiator piping then I can fit it into my good van.

What modifications did you need to make to the oil lubrication system for it to work with the engine on such an acute angle?

I haven't got to that part yet. But was thinking I will remove the sump to see where the oil pick up is and may modify it to be lower. I also might find an electric oil pump and make a reservoir for more oil and pump it to the rocker cover as it has 2 pcv ports.

What would you recommend? I don't want to go too over the top.

Once I get all my piping I'm going to remove the engine to check it all over, install the clutch and good gearbox then put it into my other van.

another kiwi doing an awesome conversion!
why is it all you guys love swapping engines? is it tought in high school over there

anyway i do love youre effort your putting into it

from what i undertand the k and f series have the same bell housing pattern (minus a few blot holes, but majority of them go in)... so k10a/k6a to an f8a/f10a box should have bolted up or was it just because of the angle that yuo made the adaptor

DEFINITELY KEEP THIS PAGE UPDATED WITH YOUR PROGRESS....

I actually have no idea how you figured out I'm Kiwi lol.

K and F and insanely similar engines in comparison of size.

With the k10a to f10a bellhousing pattern it lined up the starter motor holes (at the top) perfectly. Then you move down to the next holes and they were out by 20-30mm on each side. So I made up 2 identical adaption blocks after finding out the price of doing an adaption plate. They are simple and work great. You can see them in one of my pictures. They could be with more grinding to be more tidy.

I didn't want to touch the sump but I may have to. I'm going to add a larger section on the sump and loop a hose from the oil filter up to the rocker cover to avoid any lubricating issues.

I've also got to get my bottom radiator outlet shifted to the other side. to make the cooling systems piping more easy and cost effective.

I got me a blow off valve for it too

I was going to suggest that you'll need to modify the sump and pickup so it all works nicely (and doesn't leak) when the engine is leaned over. Otherwise you'll have oil constantly leaking through the sump gasket and no oil pickup on right-hand corners.

The other thing you'll need to think about is cylinder head lubrication/drainage. This may require the plugging of some oil galleries, and enlargement of others, or a separate drain pipe installed. The standard pump is fine to get the oil circulated, so there's no need for an additional unit.

All ideas would be sweet. Maybe the rocker covers going to come off and i'll make a plate to direct the oil flow to the areas that won't get much attention from the pcv hole with the hose I'm going to route from the oil filter tree.

The K10a is chain driven so has a massive gap at the front for oil flow. Would like to know which side of the engine the oil pump is pumping oil too.

I'll have a go at diverting the sump pickup to the lowest point possible and perhaps making the sump slightly larger underneath to allow the pickup to go down more.

I thought the engine mounts were hard, this is starting to sound harder lol.

Also I haven't even looked at the loom, but I'm going to have to find out where the ECU operated fan switches are and the power supply wire to the ECU.

Being a twin cam motor it will have an oil feed for each cam, typically on the intake side of each cavity. Therefore you shouldn't need to worry about extra feed lines, just ensuring that the oil drains properly and doesn't pool inside the rocker cover.

So you are suggesting I grind out any spots oil can pool in preventing drainage back to the sump?

The only problem is I don't want to remove the head, or rebuild the motor. being chain driven its enough of a prick to just pull the head off let only costs on gaskets and head re-surfacing. Would I really need to block and expand oil galleries? I kind of want minimal effort to get this project on the road and going good.

Well in order to combat this I will expand my sumps capacity and ensure good pick up position.

I will forget about the extra feed lines now One thing off the list.

I should have just put a rotor in, would have been easier lol. More costly though and being a daily driver would suck my pay fast.

By the time you factor in purchasing and installing an ECU + wiring, pumps, surge tank and the rest you could have installed a 12A on carbies for much less - but the suck on the wallet for fuel would be pretty harsh!

I brought the motor as a complete package including loom, ECU, relay boxes. It even has an airbag loom in it and the original boost line haha.

Heres a rough estimate on what I've spent for those interested:

Engine,ECU, loom - $800 (he brought it for $1100)
Modified Intake manifold - $300
EFI Fuel Pump - $80
Radiator hose (Bendy hose) - $35

All NZD prices

Price of a rotor engine over here is $3000.

I've yet to get all my radiator piping which is probably $60 more.

Then Intercooler pipings going to hit my pocket.

I paid $1600 for the van.

I need some help/opinions.

I've removed the engine and have to modify the oil pick up and sump to hold a decent amount of oil.

The pickup currently sits on the side of the engine with the least amount of oil.
The oil level will fill above the splash plate and be close to contacting the crankshaft, I'm pretty sure it should be below the splash plate.

So I'm just looking for answers to sump modifications and where the best position for the pickup is. Even making an external sump.















I also need a wiring diagram for the K10A engine. Even a site I can purchase it off.

Test fitting the sump:


What a mission to modify a sump.

wow that does look like a lot of work. but will be worth all the efert when your boosting in a carry

More work than I even knew. First time I've ever done any major mods to a car. It'l be a rewarding feeling as I'm only 18.