Hi all, hope you can help me with my problem. Anyway I bought a suzuki hatch about 3 months ago (I love these cars, my mate got me into them) and yeah paid about 500 for it and then like another 3k for repairs and to get it looking good.
One day I got pulled over by the police because the number plate was rusty at the back. They then defected because of this and found another reason to give me a major defect which was an oil leak at the front somewhere. Was really annoying and to top it all off I had to book an appointment at regency ( a real strict place in SA to get rid of defects) to get it back on the road.
So I took it to a mechanic to get it all ready for regency and that cost me another heap of money! So in the test my car passed everything except brake pressure, even though I had my brakes fixed and everything. I took it back to the mechanics after I failed and they had another look and said they were fine and even wrote me a report to say so. I took the test again a couple weeks later (the soonest I could get it in) and failed due to the exact same problem!! I was furious!
My mechanic did the following yesterday: Remove rear proportioning valves/overhaul as required.
Refit to vehicle and bleed brake system as required.
Adjust brakes and roadtest.
The brakes still kinda feel a bit not right, ie it doesnt stop the car immediately, like I gotta pump them a couple times.
Anyway they said they were confident it would get through but after failing two times I'm not so sure. They said they could do one more thing for $500 and that's the brake cylinders. I'm wondering if that's worth doing before my next test on Wednesday?? So if anyone has experienced anything like this or could offer some advice I'd like to hear from you. PLEASE I need my car!!
Trying to get my hatch "roadworthy" again
Firstly, Regency should be able to give you a rundown on where the problem is. When I took my MightyBoy over the pits they ran it up on a set of rollers, testing the front brakes, then the rear. The machine showed that the rear right hand side was only producing 15% brake force, which meant the proportion valve or the brake cylinder was stuffed - but at least the problem was pin-pointed.
Likewise any decent brake specialist should have the same brake force test machine, so they can tell you where the problem is and save you spending money and time farting around.
I'd bet your problem is wheel brake cylinders (which would only cost $500 if they replaced the two on the rear AND rebuild the front disc calipers), or your brake master cylinder might be on its last legs.
Then again it could be something as simple as air in the brake lines, which would be the best-case situation!
Likewise any decent brake specialist should have the same brake force test machine, so they can tell you where the problem is and save you spending money and time farting around.
I'd bet your problem is wheel brake cylinders (which would only cost $500 if they replaced the two on the rear AND rebuild the front disc calipers), or your brake master cylinder might be on its last legs.
Then again it could be something as simple as air in the brake lines, which would be the best-case situation!
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
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Angry_Hatch_Man
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:17 pm
Ok well thanks for your help. I will call around for a brake specialist tomorrow and get the brake cylinder done if it needs it. Hopefully I can end this nightmare 
But I shall let you know what happens!
But I shall let you know what happens!
the rear cylinders are only about $25 each so can't see where they get $500 from.
Check the linings if they are low you won't get good pressure also sometimes the lines go spongy, but a test like brayden describes is a good thing i think for the money you have already spent you should have excellent brakes. If they need pumping I don't care what the emchanic writes on his report they are not good enough . Your life and the lives of others are at risk. maybe the RAC can give you a diagnosis, otherwise the mechanics should be fixing it for no more money or have their licence cancelled. you been dudded.
Check the linings if they are low you won't get good pressure also sometimes the lines go spongy, but a test like brayden describes is a good thing i think for the money you have already spent you should have excellent brakes. If they need pumping I don't care what the emchanic writes on his report they are not good enough . Your life and the lives of others are at risk. maybe the RAC can give you a diagnosis, otherwise the mechanics should be fixing it for no more money or have their licence cancelled. you been dudded.
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Al_Zhiemer
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 7:18 pm
- Location: Gympie, Queensland
- Contact:
The last time i looked into buying a new brake master cylinder for the mighty boy, the cheapest price i could find one for was around $250-00+.
If your brake pedal is still feeling spongey under your foot, i'd first be looking for air to still be in the brake line somewhere. Unfotunately i don't think this will be your problem, it sounds more and more like a brake master cylinder problem to me. Mainly because the problem seemed to have gotten worse after the proprtioning valve rebuild, as in the fact that you now feel you need to pump the brake to get any sort of feel and pressure.
Kits to rebuild these units shouldn't cost you much more than about $40-00 to rebuild these units, they are a pain in the arse to get out but if you remove the master cylinder yourself you will save yourself alot of cash and a reputable brake joint should be able to rebuild one of these units in an hr. So i reckon you shouldn't need to pay anymore than $100-00 to have it reconditioned.
If they throw a large number at you to have you master cylinder rebuilt or replaced, let me know and i will do you an exchange service, send me your old one and for $100-00 I'll send you a fully reconditioned unit in return. This applies to anyone who wants their master cylinder rebuilt.
Cheers
If your brake pedal is still feeling spongey under your foot, i'd first be looking for air to still be in the brake line somewhere. Unfotunately i don't think this will be your problem, it sounds more and more like a brake master cylinder problem to me. Mainly because the problem seemed to have gotten worse after the proprtioning valve rebuild, as in the fact that you now feel you need to pump the brake to get any sort of feel and pressure.
Kits to rebuild these units shouldn't cost you much more than about $40-00 to rebuild these units, they are a pain in the arse to get out but if you remove the master cylinder yourself you will save yourself alot of cash and a reputable brake joint should be able to rebuild one of these units in an hr. So i reckon you shouldn't need to pay anymore than $100-00 to have it reconditioned.
If they throw a large number at you to have you master cylinder rebuilt or replaced, let me know and i will do you an exchange service, send me your old one and for $100-00 I'll send you a fully reconditioned unit in return. This applies to anyone who wants their master cylinder rebuilt.
Cheers
Drive: 1997 Toyota Starlet... (the incognito mobile)
1985 Suzuki Mighty Boy, currently being restored.
1995 Nissan GT-R33
Why doesn't the Gene Pool have life gaurds??
1985 Suzuki Mighty Boy, currently being restored.
1995 Nissan GT-R33
Why doesn't the Gene Pool have life gaurds??