G10 Engine Swap Compendium (What you may get yourself into)

[Jaffa396]

Firstly! I am not an authority on the subject by any means, I own both a Suzuki MB and a G10 engine and am compiling the knowledge, parts, current RWC and tea and biscuit moments with the engineers that are required of me well before I start. My research has led me to the realisation that it would be awesome for the forum to have a one-stop-shop of info for anyone considering this swap. Hopefully the info I can stick here will be useful to anyone who like me has been searching the threads for enough scraps of information to get a good idea of the process. I AM LOOKING TO BE CORRECTED AND DIRECTED by anyone with experience and/or knowledge relevant to performing this engine swap (and who can be f***ed helping me put this knowlege in the one place)

Kudos will be given to all the parties I get my information from. I have no intention of claiming other peoples hard graft as my own. It could be bulls*** for all I know...

You can see my MB in the projects section to see where I'm at here:

http://www.teammightyboy.com/forum/view ... =28&t=7081

So Firstly - What we already know: (Source: http://www.teammightyboy.com/workshop/3 ... onversions)

"Engine model: G10 / G10A

Specifications: 996cc, 3 cylinder SOHC, carburettor
Power: 38kw (80nm torque)
Donor vehicle: Suzuki Swift GA ('83-95)
Gearbox: 5 speed manual
Installation difficulty: 2
Estimated cost: $1500-2000

Details:
Like the F8B, G10/G10A conversions are also quite common. The added bonus of this motor is that it has a 5 speed gearbox. To install you will need the engine cradle (subframe) from an automatic MightyBoy, as it has more suitable locations for bolting up the gearbox. The G10A has an electronic ignition. While the G10 retains the hydraulic fuel pump synomynous with the F5A and F8B, The G10a has an electric fuel pump, so bear that in mind when thinking about wiring. The exhaust system will need to be reconfigured too.

Later models (89 onwards a.k.a. the MKII) have hydraulic lifters, whereas earlier models (The MKI) have standard tappets. Hydraulic motors are distinguished by a thinner, aluminium rocker cover, whereas the older models have a rocker cover made of black tin.)
Spare parts for this motor are readily available locally and not overly expensive."

What that early model MK1 rocker cover looks like:

Donor: 1988 Swift GL

And that's all for now, but a start nonetheless, Like I say I'm compiling this info for myself and I'd like to help share it out by posting my research on here, thanks for looking guys, anything to add? It would keep the thread neater if you would PM me any little snippets of info (links, photos etc...) that I can quote you on (kudos)to save the same info being repeated again and again.

Or if this is a waste of time and nobody needs it other than me then sing out too Cheers Guys!

MKI/MKII definition Kudos to Paul - "nelpd96"

[nelpd96]

The first thing that I would suggest is identify that there is the G10 which is the tin top and came in the MK1 swift and the G10A which has a different head and gearbox that was in the MKII Swift. They have the same block but are not the same engine, as for what is required do a search for my thread there is over 20 pages of detailed information about how I went about it. To provide context I am a registered engineering signatory so everything that was done is in accordance with the National Code of Practice.

Regards
Paul

[Jaffa396]

The first thing that I would suggest is identify that there is the G10 which is the tin top and came in the MK1 swift and the G10A which has a different head and gearbox that was in the MKII Swift. They have the same block but are not the same engine, as for what is required do a search for my thread there is over 20 pages of detailed information about how I went about it. To provide context I am a registered engineering signatory so everything that was done is in accordance with the National Code of Practice.

Regards
Paul

Awesome Paul! I have read your MB Build thread and plan on referring to it heavily (if not entirely). As I do this thread if you wouldn't mind keeping an eye on it I'd be very very grateful, I'll do an edit of the first post and stick this information in so that there is never any out-of-date info even in the early posts.

[Brayden]

Just a suggestion, but given that there's already a build thread for your ute it might be less confusing to keep all the progress and conversion info in that thread. When you're done we can combine it with the info from Paul's build thread to create an article for the workshop section of the website.

My 2c anyway.

[Jaffa396]

Just a suggestion, but given that there's already a build thread for your ute it might be less confusing to keep all the progress and conversion info in that thread. When you're done we can combine it with the info from Paul's build thread to create an article for the workshop section of the website.

My 2c anyway.

That would be an epic outcome Brayden. I had thought about just sticking this into the build thread for the boy but In an effort to keep that thread tidy I thought it would be handy to stick it in here. Just been bearing in mind the "No technical questions here" rule in the projects section - Keep the build thread entertaining and use this thread for the head-scratching... What d'ya think?

[Brayden]

I don't mind either way mate. The important bit is that the info is captured.

[mowog]

also note that the early engine block is cast iron the later one is aluminium so would be lighter.

[gadj]

Do the different G10 engines have interchangeable parts? Head for example. Mine is going back together with a tin top (early) G10a with a worked head, cam (unknown) & Hitachi carb(possibly from Datto 1600 or Pulsar) driving through a 5 speed from a series 2 or 3 Swift. An alloy block would lighten things appreciably.

[nelpd96]

I believe that the block is essentially the same on all engines, so things like heads and gearboxes 'should' be interchangeable but I know for a fact that the water pumps are different. There is a pair f reconditioned G10 engines on ebay for $300 each if anyone is interested.

Cheers
Paul

[ToranaGuy]

I believe that the block is essentially the same on all engines, so things like heads and gearboxes 'should' be interchangeable but I know for a fact that the water pumps are different. There is a pair f reconditioned G10 engines on ebay for $300 each if anyone is interested.

Cheers
Paul

So tempting, even tho I'm already too far along my F8b turbo project. That's a bargain price too, you can't buy the bits to reco it that cheaply, let alone machine work if required. My bottom end for the F8b was over $1000 and it wasn't even assembled.

I'd love to see some detailed info about the G10 swap, as my fiance would like a mighty boy in the future, and unless we buy something with a turbo F8b in it, I'd be wanting to fit a G10 & 5spd to it.

Someone grab this!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

[nelpd96]

As mentioned before, start with my build thread and it is all in there. If someone wants to pull out the stuff that is must have information go for it but I just don't have the time.

Cheers
Paul

[Jaffa396]

Awesome Paul, It's best to get permission from the creator of the info, And like I said, I'll make sure you're credited for your knowledge buddy. I'll be taking a read through your project today to make a few notes etc...

[mightyvitara]

For anyone still looking at this page for info, I have just done a conversion to my mightyboy, I fitted the G10A and it could not be easier, I noticed that Paul shortened his drive shafts...This is not necessary, as if the engine is put in the correct spot, belt pulley 15mm off the drivers side rail the shafts from the boy go straight in, just remove the inner MB CV and replace them with the Swift one's, The MB brakes if well maintained are plenty of brakes, and that leaves just 4 engine mounts to make up, a little wiring, and an electric fuel pump, even the standard swift radiator fits in nicely, I did however use the auto chassis rails, but even that is not really needed, Exhaust clears the front rail with a little dent in it, and the standard header pipe can be used, The little mightyboy really gets up and goes and cruisers along well now and sits nice on 110-120 K's and yes stops just fine, I have another one on the go as well and this one will be the same motor but with an AMR 500 blower hanging off the side...now that will be nice...any questions feel free to ask...

[Brayden]

I fitted the G10A and it could not be easier.

'Easy' probably depends on your level of skill. Fabbing the engine mounts for a MK2/3 G10A is challenging, especially to make enough clearance for the diff housing, oil filter, sump and exhaust. I'd say on the setup I've done there's only millimetres of clearance for those four items.

Did you take any photos as you did the conversion? I'd be interested to compare how yours fits together.

[Matty]

Also keen on pics as I have a swift sitting in the yard waiting to be pulled apart and motor into my mightyboy