Hi guys, i've tried using an electric fuel pump in lieu of the mechanical one in my hatch. The pump is a generic one, used for a carburetted 1.8 liter vehicle.
The problem is that when revving hard or going fast (trying to overtake for example) the engine suddenly dies, it simply dies.
The power for the pump is taken from the red lead that goes to the ballast resistor and the ground wire is grounded to the car body. Does taking the power from the ign coil supply cause any problem? I did it coz the pump is located near it and also it'll start working when the ign is turned on.
Does using an electric fuel pump have any real benefits over mech pump, i'm thinking of takin the mech pump out if the electric starts working properly.
Flow rate!!?? Electric fuel pump problem.
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boosted_alto
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:54 pm
I highly doubt that the connections for an electric pump are just that simple....but then again, I can be wrong. 
Theres a friend of mine running an electric pump on his F8B and theres this small thing on it which makes a ticking sound all the time. I suppose that regulates the fuel pressure and stuff.
Ask Brayden.
Theres a friend of mine running an electric pump on his F8B and theres this small thing on it which makes a ticking sound all the time. I suppose that regulates the fuel pressure and stuff.
Ask Brayden.
You need to run the pump on a seperate fused link from the battery, with a relay running to an ign lead other than one feeding the coil!
I'd also say that a pump from a 1.8L engine (assuming it is EFI) would be way too big for what you need.
I'd also say that a pump from a 1.8L engine (assuming it is EFI) would be way too big for what you need.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
So could it could be that the power is not going to the coil properly... i'll try the pump with the relay on a different circuit.
Brayden, the pump isn't one from a EFI engine, it's a carb engine, a carbed 1.8liter Isuzu.
Boosted, this pump makes a tickling sound but that's when the pump doesn't get petrol to suck... there's no other thing on it. Is a fuel pressure regulator required while using a electronic pump? The pressure can't be low as the pump is designed to feed a 1.8liter engine.
Does the engine die if the pressure is too much? What's the ideal pressure to be maintained in the system?
Anyway answer this mates.. does using an electric pump and takin off the mech pump gives any positive gains, performance wise? Atleast 0.01%
Brayden, the pump isn't one from a EFI engine, it's a carb engine, a carbed 1.8liter Isuzu.
Boosted, this pump makes a tickling sound but that's when the pump doesn't get petrol to suck... there's no other thing on it. Is a fuel pressure regulator required while using a electronic pump? The pressure can't be low as the pump is designed to feed a 1.8liter engine.
Does the engine die if the pressure is too much? What's the ideal pressure to be maintained in the system?
Anyway answer this mates.. does using an electric pump and takin off the mech pump gives any positive gains, performance wise? Atleast 0.01%
Replacing the mechanical pump with an electric will make very little difference to performance. For a carburettored N/A setup, 3-4PSI is about the maximum you would want any more could be forcing the needle/float open and flooding the motor.
I would say the current problem is caused by the pump robbing power from the coil.
I would say the current problem is caused by the pump robbing power from the coil.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
The main reason i'm going for a electric pump is coz i want to get rid of the mech pump, the oil leak from the pump packing can never be stopped. I tried many times and the oil still leaks.
If i can get the electric pump working i can remove the mech pump and put a cover over the mounting flange and bolt it shut, no more oil leaks.
Brayden the engine was not flooding, even when the engine was dying it used to get back to life quickly after cranking.
It should be the electric connection as you said. Thanks mate.
If i can get the electric pump working i can remove the mech pump and put a cover over the mounting flange and bolt it shut, no more oil leaks.
Brayden the engine was not flooding, even when the engine was dying it used to get back to life quickly after cranking.
It should be the electric connection as you said. Thanks mate.
Generally you should mount the pump close to the tank, as electric pumps have more pushing power than they do pulling.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Today i measured the fuel flow from the pump using a 1 liter bottle. To fill the 1 liter bottle it takes almost 50 seconds of pumping. It comes to around 61 liters per hour.
Is this rate of flow enough for the F8B engine during hard acceleration in low gears and sustained high speeds (130kmph - 140kmph)?
I've not been able to check it on the road yet, waiting for your input Brayden.
Cheers.
Is there any benefit in using electric pump and mechanical pump in series?
Is this rate of flow enough for the F8B engine during hard acceleration in low gears and sustained high speeds (130kmph - 140kmph)?
I've not been able to check it on the road yet, waiting for your input Brayden.
Cheers.
Is there any benefit in using electric pump and mechanical pump in series?
Facet pumps are good. I used them on my Morris Minor, Landrover, and Mini minor.
The problem most likely is it needs its own dedicated wire to the battery through the ignition system find a fuse terminal that is only live when the ignition is on and remains live when cranking (no good going off when cranking). When it has high draw such as hard acceleration or high speeds it is probably taking power away from the coil.
Personally i am not a fan of relays for anything unless really necessary such as mounting spotlights etc. which have to be routed through the high beam switch. Far better to use a decent heavy duty cable and remember to have a same size cable to earth. Relays in my experience are another electrical failure point, and will leave you stranded. The KISS principle.
It is perfectly normal for it to tick, if it doesn't tick it is not working. If it annoys you mount it on rubber but remember to earth it.
It should be mounted below the tank and as near to the tank as possible.
A EFI pump pumps at some huge pressure that will flood your carby like you would not believe.
you can get better performance from an electric pump than a mechanical one as the pumping rate remains constant, while in a mech pump the rate goes up and down depending on engine speed. Probably helps economy as well.
The problem most likely is it needs its own dedicated wire to the battery through the ignition system find a fuse terminal that is only live when the ignition is on and remains live when cranking (no good going off when cranking). When it has high draw such as hard acceleration or high speeds it is probably taking power away from the coil.
Personally i am not a fan of relays for anything unless really necessary such as mounting spotlights etc. which have to be routed through the high beam switch. Far better to use a decent heavy duty cable and remember to have a same size cable to earth. Relays in my experience are another electrical failure point, and will leave you stranded. The KISS principle.
It is perfectly normal for it to tick, if it doesn't tick it is not working. If it annoys you mount it on rubber but remember to earth it.
It should be mounted below the tank and as near to the tank as possible.
A EFI pump pumps at some huge pressure that will flood your carby like you would not believe.
you can get better performance from an electric pump than a mechanical one as the pumping rate remains constant, while in a mech pump the rate goes up and down depending on engine speed. Probably helps economy as well.
Thanks for the reply Mowog.
Today i tried different wires present in the engine compartment which will be live when the ignition is turned on. In the end i found one, it's the one going to the carb solenoid, i have connected the pump wire there and seems to work fine, i have to do high speed tests yet.
Would this solenoid wire be able to provide good enough power for the pump? I don't have a multimeter so i couldn't check the voltages.
The pump is now mounted in the engine compartment, it seems to work fine. Should i expect any problems in the future?
Yes it does tick... but once it get filled up with petrol the sound is minimised very much.
Today i tried different wires present in the engine compartment which will be live when the ignition is turned on. In the end i found one, it's the one going to the carb solenoid, i have connected the pump wire there and seems to work fine, i have to do high speed tests yet.
Would this solenoid wire be able to provide good enough power for the pump? I don't have a multimeter so i couldn't check the voltages.
The pump is now mounted in the engine compartment, it seems to work fine. Should i expect any problems in the future?
Yes it does tick... but once it get filled up with petrol the sound is minimised very much.
As long as the pump is fairly low down it should be ok but if it has to pull and push (mounted up higher than the bottom of the tank) it will be working hard.
The solenoid wire is pretty thin, try to locate a fuse which fits the needs and take a lead off the powered side of that with a fuse mounted between the fuse box and the pump.
The solenoid wire is pretty thin, try to locate a fuse which fits the needs and take a lead off the powered side of that with a fuse mounted between the fuse box and the pump.
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hatch4play
- Posts: 234
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you do not need to have a facit fuel pump lower than the tank they are a very good pump at lifting (hence why they use them to feed surge tanks). in the boot of cars.. i have 2 mates that run facit fuel pumps in their geminis and they mount them in the engine bay, and never failed a beat.
also i know of about 10ppl with them as lift pumps...
also i know of about 10ppl with them as lift pumps...
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evilgidget
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As a lift pump, they work great. Having it mounted in the engine bay isn't good though - they only allow for about 1.5M of suction head, so accellerating may be causing a pressure drop. Mount it under the car, close to the tank for best results. Also, it's REALLY bad to run an electric fuel pump dry as they rely on the fuel flow to use as a coolant. Run it dry & it'll be stuffed very soon. Another good reason to move it.