Hey guys,
Need a bit of help with my mightyboy radio wires. i have taken the dash out which has an after market radio but the people who had put it in have not used the original wires to install it.
Just wondering if someone has any idea which wires are the originals to get power, ignition and earth??? (im pretty sure thats all the wires i need to find)
There are a few wires that are disconnected under the dash but im not sure if they are ment to be like that or they were once used for somthing. So if someone could tell me which original wires are used for the radio that would be great.
Cheers Guys
Radio Wires????
hopefully they didnty change the colour of the wire further back ... but anyawys
black - universal for ground
yellow is you constant connection to the battery
red is your ignition/aux power (makes the thing turn on with ya keyz)
but before you go hooking it up like that get a multimeter and test what i have said - last thing you want to do is to reverse polarise your power to your radio either its nto gonna work or it will smoke it
tu use a multimeter set it to DC volts, put the black lead on the ground and then the red lead on the other wire
red should only have volts running through it with the key turned to ignition, yellow should have it regardless
black - universal for ground
yellow is you constant connection to the battery
red is your ignition/aux power (makes the thing turn on with ya keyz)
but before you go hooking it up like that get a multimeter and test what i have said - last thing you want to do is to reverse polarise your power to your radio either its nto gonna work or it will smoke it
tu use a multimeter set it to DC volts, put the black lead on the ground and then the red lead on the other wire
red should only have volts running through it with the key turned to ignition, yellow should have it regardless
Too easy.
Earth - Run a new earth straight to the body anywhere behind the dash.
+12v constant - Run a dedicated fused wire straight to the battery.
+12v ACC - Splice from the ciggy lighter if you can't find the 12v from the old radio with a multimeter.
Earth - Run a new earth straight to the body anywhere behind the dash.
+12v constant - Run a dedicated fused wire straight to the battery.
+12v ACC - Splice from the ciggy lighter if you can't find the 12v from the old radio with a multimeter.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
yeah i need to know that too lol iv just got the yellow wire connected to the power wire lol it does the trick for the moment just dosnt hold the channels
Yellow with white tracer. Thats the wire that comes from the battery and goes into the fusebox under the steering wheel.Mty-Ute wrote:Thanks alot for that info guys, helped alot.
What color is the original wire for the 12V constant or were abouts is it under the dash???
Cheers
Garry. Nuff sed!
When installing my headunit we found it much easier to run a seperate cable to the battery for the constant 12v connection. After many attempts at finding appropriate wires we had one but when you would turn highbeams on it would shut down the HU.
So to save the mucking around its just much easier to run its own wire for the constant power.
So to save the mucking around its just much easier to run its own wire for the constant power.
'86 Suzuki MightyBoy F5A
www.caraudioaustralia.com
www.caraudioaustralia.com
But dont forget to put a fuse along the line!Mommers wrote:When installing my headunit we found it much easier to run a seperate cable to the battery for the constant 12v connection. After many attempts at finding appropriate wires we had one but when you would turn highbeams on it would shut down the HU.
So to save the mucking around its just much easier to run its own wire for the constant power.
Garry. Nuff sed!
[/quote]Kel wrote:yea i get that toowhen you would turn highbeams on it would shut down the HUtime for a capacitor ??

A capacitor wouldnt do anything unless you are using a shit-wad of power. Even still a 1 farad cap is a joke, and is basically for looks.
As I said way back when, look at your fuse box (under the steering wheel basically) find the yellow wire, with white tracer that goes into the fuse box, and find which wire it connects up to and just tap into that. Or, as Mommers said in that post, run a new line for the HU, straight into the battery, but make sure you put a fuse in the line somewhere...
The reason that it is turning off when you flick the high beams on, is because you have tapped into the line for the high beams, cause they have constant power too...

Garry. Nuff sed!
find the yellow wire, with white tracer that goes into the fuse box,[/quote]
there is no yellow wire with a white line running along it
there are 2 slightly bigger then the rest white wires with yellow running down them tho
are they the ones u mean cause they have constant power, but when i turn the headlights on it turns the headunit off, then when i put it on high beam it turns it off again.
should i just run a dedicated line ?? lol what size fuse ?? if i go to super cheap do they sell little inlines fuses i could use for it ??
cheers.
there is no yellow wire with a white line running along it


should i just run a dedicated line ?? lol what size fuse ?? if i go to super cheap do they sell little inlines fuses i could use for it ??
cheers.
- psychosis7326
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- Location: Tasmania
if your going to use a capacitor its usauly about 1farad per 1000watts RMS
More likely that the entire ute is poorly earthed, or the alternator is shagged.ceej wrote:The reason that it is turning off when you flick the high beams on, is because you have tapped into the line for the high beams, cause they have constant power too...Kel wrote:when you would turn highbeams on it would shut down the HU

Last edited by Brayden on Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
F8B EFI turbo - Three pots and a snail.
Yeah, sorry, i think its white with yellow tracer which is a bit fatter than the others... I have my constant running off the hazard/horn which is a 15amp fuse. Try connecting your constant up to the wire coming from that and see how it goes. (Not the fatter wire.) 

Garry. Nuff sed!