The Buzz Box gets the "Big Block"

Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:41 pm

Hmmm. So without the Torque Wrench, there's not a lot I can do, so I thought I'd at least swap over the timing marker today. Put the 10mm socket on one of the two bolts holding it to the block and turned about 1/4 turn anti-clockwise. Easy as you like, the bolt head sheared off cleanly and left me with a small stud jambed in the block.

Looks like I'll be adding an easy-out to the ever-growing inventory of tools...

Sun Jul 05, 2015 9:28 pm

Cheers ssc87... Thanks for the heads-up, at least I'll know if they try to rip me off...

Mon Jul 06, 2015 12:05 am

MMM the old rear water jacket plate; had a bit of trouble with this myself

(think its im the build in projects) be careful as easy outs are not easy to remove if broken

Sat Jul 18, 2015 5:17 pm

Update...
Got the flywheel machined = $48 and collect that afternoon... Sweet.

After much angst, I drilled, drilled some more, screw-extracted, wimped out, drilled some more, then found the screw extractor was bottoming out, so bought two taps - (M6x1.0mm pitch) and hand-re-tapped the hole and success! - The bastard broken bolt relinquished it's grip and the remains of same came out.

Now I move on to the next conundrum - one for the brains trust - The crankshaft I REMOVED the flywheel from, has a nicely machined peg to orient the fywheel:

Which located nicely in the socket machined into the flywheel:

Wheras the crankshaft I'm fitting the flywheel to, has a roll-pin which extended through the auto-crownwheel:

The roll-pin is too long, and bottoms out in the corresponding socket in the flywheel.

So.

As I see it, I have 3 alternative actions I can take:

1. Try to swap the machined pin and roll-pin from crankshaft to crankshaft so the pin matches the flywheel again. I have no idea how to get the machined pin out of the flywheel without damaging it, if even it can be removed...

2. Drill the flywheel socket through, so the roll-pin can't foul. I don't suppose removing that much material (3/8ths of F-All) will upset the flywheel balance...?

3. Grind the roll-pin shorter so it won't bottom out in the flywheel socket.

What do you recommend?

Sat Jul 18, 2015 7:08 pm

Easiest solution is to nip a bit off the roll pin, but I'd remove it and install a solid locating pin. You might be able to remove the pin from the other engine with a pair of vice grips.

Any time I remove an old roller bearing I always break it up and harvest a few of the rollers - they come in handy for situations like this.

Sun Jul 19, 2015 2:39 pm

I would just grind a bit off the roll pin (and re chamfer the end) this is mearly a locating device so it does not need to be solid .

Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:32 pm

Ok, thanks guys - Flywheel now fitted up. Next - Torque settings for Clutch cover bolts? - not given (that I could find!) in either the F8b or the F5a Manuals...
And can someone confirm for me - the Diff & gearbox share oil... I can't see that documented in either book either... I know it's 2 Lts of SAE85 or 90, just want to be certain the diff oil isn't independant of the gearbox oil (I'm pretty sure it isn't).

Sun Jul 19, 2015 7:35 pm

did you try tapping the rollpin back in? maybe it came out a little when you removed the old flywheel?

Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:08 pm

Yeah Tez gearbox and diff share same oil supply.

Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:22 am

Ok... So after listening to crickets in regard to the torque settings for the clutch cover, I thought I'd ring Exedy Technical Support for an indication of torque setting... The official word from the technical guy is 'tight'.

With my flashy new torque wrench in hand, I was hoping for some meaningful value, but no-one seems to know, so it'll be '.... do it up with a socket, then swap to a ring spanner and nip it up 'tight'..."

How scientific...

Maybe I'm over-thinking this...

Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:05 pm

To be honest I've never used a torque wrench for much more than head bolts, main caps and rod ends.

Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:18 pm

Hi Brayden.
That's actually reassuring... You're talking to an IT-Geek who is doing this for the first time, so I tend to read any instructions I can find, before I tackle just about all of it. I tend to freak out a little when I can't find written data to work to.

You do know the definition of a 'geek' ? - He/She's the one who is prepared to read the user manual...

Mon Aug 03, 2015 1:09 am

the torque settings are in there somewhere but you can get them from any good engineering reference book dimensions of the bolts/nuts determine the torque. or just go the library and look up the settings for another brand of vehicle with the same size bolts.

Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:21 pm

Well... It works.

Few teething issues...

Not happy yet with the clutch... Works fine, but a lot of travel before anything starts happening... Just an adjustment thing. No Biggie.

Gearbox selector is akin to ... " The gears are over there somewhere... go find 'em..."

But
I'm sure I'll get used to that again soon enough....

Other than that.... WOO HOO!!!

Sun Aug 16, 2015 7:58 pm

My metaphor for changing gears in a MightyBoy is 'like stirring a bowl of soup'.

Congrats on getting it up and running.

I had trouble with the first F8B clutch I used. Same issue, which was caused by the pressure plate having a slightly different profile to the original. Solved it by moving the clutch arm one spline closer to the radiator, and adjusting the cable accordingly.