RF4Burns Build

[rf4burns]

* ALL INFORMATION IN THIS BUILD IS PROVIDED AS INFORMATION ONLY I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR HOW THIS INFORMATION IS USED AND ANY OPINIONS STATED ARE THAT OF THE AUTHOR.*Unless otherwise stated, all images and written content copyright of author. Any unauthorised reproduction, copying, duplication, plagiarism, scraping etc is strictly prohibited
Well got a Mightyboy a couple of months ago (had a rattle you wouldn't believe but was still running ) body is in good shape so put it on the car trailer and brought it home

Home

removed the motor

no motor

and stripped it to find (no surprise) main bearings had failed

crank

took the crank to work to check it and found the crank was bent,and main bearing area was damaged beyond grinding ...thanks to Billie a new-second hand crank was obtained. This crank was taken to work and polished and measured and came up good to go. The block was de-carbonised and given a light hone and assembly has begun crank has been refitted and oil clearances checked, pistons with new rings and big ends fitted and oil clearances checked (while many will feel this is not necessary -checking oil clearance - this will give a good indication of how good the machining was and which end of the oil clearance tolerance you are at which = expected life)

piston/clearence

The oil pump was disassembled (had been apart before and one screw had the centre stripped out -someone used a standard screw driver to attempt to undo )

oil pump

an impact driver was used to undo the other screws

impact driver

The screw with no centre was able to be undone using a cold chisel (failing this I would have drilled the head off the screw and this would have left enough of the screw protruding to be removed with vice grips/locking pliers) allowing the pump to be disassembled

oil pump apart

oil pump relief valve has been disassembled

oil relief

due to the age of the engine and the failed bearing's the housing has been built up and re-machined at work back to "as new" and reassembled using new screws:thumbup1: mainly cause I couldn't buy a new pump and the machining only cost my time.
O.K got a bit more time and refitted the oil pump/sump/inner timing cover then when fitting the rear water jacket cover ran into a little problem (snapped one of the bolts off ) so no worries I drilled the hole (dead centre) and thought I'd cheat (should'a know better) and attempt to use an "easy out" to remove the remains

bolt

easy out/tapered

[Matty]

Good work mate, nice and new motor

[rf4burns]

This didn't work out and resulted in snapping the easy-out flush with the block (easy-outs are very hard and not able to be drilled by normal means) so what now well as I had drilled the hole in the bolt and knew it was central I got a large hammer and punch and drove the remaining piece of easy-out into the hole then drilled the hole the easy-out was in out to 5mm (tapping size for the 6mm bolt) and leaving a bit of easy-out now at the bottom of the hole.

hole with easyout at bottom

Then I re-tapped the 5mm hole to 6mm and shorted the 6mm bolt slightly to allow fitting of the water jacket cover (a little hi-temp Silicon and alls well)

fitted water jacket cover

after that it was pretty smooth sailing .Refitted block to engine bay in the boy and am now ready to fit the head so I have a few more pictures of things that have happened and that I've used before and during the engine build so if anyone's interested I will post them up

[Tez]

if anyones intrested

Absolutely.

I will post them up

Please do.

[rf4burns]

O.K. finish off motor time fitted head only thing to watch out for is that you have the gasket the right way round

gasket

Then I fitted the cam timing gear (I marked the timing marks with a white paint pen to make it easier to see when its time to fit the belt)and set the timing belt tensioner in the least tension position and fitted the belt, loosened the tensioner and turned over the motor by hand x2 (using a socket/ratchet on the front pulley bolt -no pulley fitted)and checked the marks still lined up

crank pulley timing mark

cam timing mark

Then I fitted the rest of the timing cover/pulley/alternator/oil filter etc...
With the coil disconnected I cranked the motor over until the oil pressure light went out.
So all is well. I set the timing using a test lamp (no not a timing light) to ensure a start 1st time .How?. Well connect a normal test lamp to EITHER the -neg side of the coil or on the connection on the side of the distributor and the other side of the lamp to earth or the -neg of the battery

test lamp to -nve side of coil or connection on distrubitor

Turn the ignition to the ON position (not start)

ign ON

now as you turn the motor over BY HAND using the rachet on the front pulley as you are coming up towards TDC the lamp will light when it is lit you should be at or near the timing mark (on the flywheel) you can loosen the distributor and turn it slightly to make the lamp lit sooner or later (try it move the dizzy and then move the motor back and forth to see the effect)

Lamp ON

Well then I removed the test lamp gave two pumps on the throttle turned the key and awesome fired straight away
Warmed it up and set the tappet's...now got to get it ready for RWC so brakes etc...got a few more things that maybe intresting and will post if/when I get the time

[Dave]

Nice. that test lamp trick is pretty neat too

[rf4burns]

O.K got a few things that maybe people can use 1st Rust removal.
Got any old engine parts (crank/blocks etc..) or tooling that you left out in the weather (or in my case 12yr old son used to FIX (read -Break) the lawn mower and left out and looking a bit like this

puller

well its pretty easy to fix and cost's very little (this method is cheap but not quick) I have a 60lt rubbish bin that I keep down near the back fence (this is a bit pongy when you take the lid off)

bin

So whats in the bin Well about 4lt's of Molasses (this can be purchased from a stock feed outlet usually...cheap as; think I bought 20lt's for $20) topped up with water this ferments to produce Acetic acid which is what removes the rust so take your rusty item (puller) and secure with wire or cord and lower into mixture

lowering puller into rust stripper

leave for 3-4 days come back and check ,when done remove and hose off. Note you must apply something to prevent rust forming again

straight out of mix pior to hosing

I don't make any claim to this being my idea or anything like that (I was shown this by my dad along time ago)and am mearly posting to inform someone who may never have seen this before. Also this will not remove paint or other coatings, it is a cheap,gentle,effective rust remover works well up here where its warm and will work in the southern regions but may take longer.I have more similar things and if there is interest I will post some more.

[Tez]

Hi RF.
I certainly wasn't aware of that method for rust removal... May not work so well for large car parts but a real pearler for small gadgetty things (like a puller) Cheap, easy. What happens to the solution if it's creating acetic acid - I guess it must have some sort of finite life-span? - I guess the content of the tub would be a bit manky when it comes time to empty it?

Thanks for sharing.

[rf4burns]

Well Tez I've had this brew going for about 2yrs now and still works o.k (can always add a bit more Molasses or water as required -evaporation-and insects dont seem to be attracted to it) When its time to empty it out I wait till its raining and spread it on the lawn sprinkle a bit of lime over it (if the rain stops turn on the sprinkler ). Never had a problem with disposal .As for large parts I have done whole doors by digging a hole and lining it with plastic and putting the whole panel in...not something I would recommend unless you live on a small property.

[gazuga]

have seen this method used over the years a few times. works well (and molasses smells alright to me?) will say to keep checking regularly when you have parts in the solution as it will eat metal. mostly seen it used on exhaust manifolds/extractors, a guy i know used this on a set of extractors and forgot about it, 2 weeks later had very rust free swiss cheesed metal

[rf4burns]

O.K Rwc FAIL requires O/Haul rear rear wheel cylinders thought that this while being a fairly simple job maybe worth a run through. So pulled of the rear wheels and sat it on blocks

wheel off

removed dust cap

dust cap

removed split pin and retainer nut/washer

split pin

As the rear hub had been on for some time ,removal required the use of an impact puller (this is not something one usually has lying round and while I do have one thought it would be good to show what could be used)so secured a length of chain to the hub using the wheel nuts (it is important that the chain is secured firmly and is not to large)and using a hammer removed the hub (this can also be used to remove rear axles (from diff) by using another length of chain attached in the middle and attaching a heavy piece of steel use the same action.(a sharp pull -put your weight into it -don't fall on ya bum)

chain attach

impact remove

This allows access to the brakes

brakes

[rf4burns]

Next I removed the bottom spring (used diagonal cutters to GRIP -not cut the spring but you could use plier's)

spring removal

and then the two brake shoes retainers (turn centre pin 90° and remove pin through rear)

shoe retainer

this allows the brake lining assembly to be removed from the backing plate

assembly removal

now the only thing holding the assembly to the vechicle is the handbrake cable this is removed by turning the brake shoe assembly over and pulling the spring on the cable back and manovering the cable free

h/brake removal

and you should end up with this

removal end

B/plate

[rf4burns]

Now remove the wheel cylinders 1st remove the brake bleeder (if you don't want the brake fluid to drain from the master cylinder clamp the brake hose that goes to the wheel cylinder -only clamp the black rubber hose NOT the brake line) to allow easy access to remove the brake pipe

brake pipe/bleeder

if the brake pipe is very tight use a proper pipe spanner

spanner

then remove the two bolts securing the wheel cylinder to the backing plate

remove wheel cyclinder

the adjusters should be removed, dismantled and cleaned and lubed (use a high temp lube sparingly)

adjuster

[Dave]

I enjoy reading your build thread posts because you take pictures of every step and explain everything in detail , and I've also learnt a few handy tricks from you Haha.

Anyway, sucks about the RWC fail....

[rf4burns]

Well thanks for reading it Dave,and glad you've picked up a few things .I have dissassembled the wheel cylinders and taken them to work and resleeved them -stainless tubing- and re-kited them so will get them back in, in the next couple of days. Also failed on the strut top's (cracked) so if I can get some to recon will post a method for re-coning these (could also be used to make custom engine mounts)other wise will remove and recon the ones I've got here.